Missing trailing arm shims

[Roger G.]

I recently noticed excessive negative camber on the rear driver side. The camber bolt had loosened and it was adjusted to bring the wheel back into specs. After getting the camber adjusted the rear end was squirrley, especially when going around corners and accelerating hard. I also noticed a clunking sound behind the driver seat when accelerating. Inspection of the suspension revealed only one shim in the trailing arm inboard pocket. My guess is this occurred because slotted shims were used, and fell out. There is no provision for a cotter pin in my 69. There is about a half-inch gap, and I assume the trailing arm has been shifting back-and-forth in the frame pocket.

Obviously this has put some stress on the driver-side suspension. I suspect the loose cam bolt was a result of this. What other components should I be looking at for possible damage with this scenario?


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[Joe L.]

Re: Missing trailing arm shims

I recently noticed excessive negative camber on the rear driver side. The camber bolt had loosened and it was adjusted to bring the wheel back into specs. After getting the camber adjusted the rear end was squirrley, especially when going around corners and accelerating hard. I also noticed a clunking sound behind the driver seat when accelerating. Inspection of the suspension revealed only one shim in the trailing arm inboard pocket. My guess is this occurred because slotted shims were used, and fell out. There is no provision for a cotter pin in my 69. There is about a half-inch gap, and I assume the trailing arm has been shifting back-and-forth in the frame pocket.

Obviously this has put some stress on the driver-side suspension. I suspect the loose cam bolt was a result of this. What other components should I be looking at for possible damage with this scenario?


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Roger-------

I would suspect that the trailing arm forward bolt may be bent or distorted, so I'd definitely check that. Otherwise, I don't think they'll be any other problems as a result of the shim situation.

The slotted trailing arm shims can be used without the use of the cotter pin. I've used them on my 1969 for many years and I even believe that some of the shims supplied originally on my car were the slotted style. My frame does have the cotter pin holes but no cotter pins were ever originally installed. The shim pack must be TIGHT. To do this, once the correct shim pack is determined, the thickest shim needs to be removed just before the last and thinnest shim is installed. Then, the thick shim needs to be driven in with a hammer. Finally, the shim packs should be rotated downward so that they are completely "tucked into" the "pocket" in the frame. I have NEVER lost a shim on mine in almost 45 years.

If you wish, you could add the cotter pin holes to the frame and use cotter pins to ensure retention but it's not really necessary.

[Roger G.]

Re: Missing trailing arm shims

Roger-------

I would suspect that the trailing arm forward bolt may be bent or distorted, so I'd definitely check that. Otherwise, I don't think they'll be any other problems as a result of the shim situation.

The slotted trailing arm shims can be used without the use of the cotter pin. I've used them on my 1969 for many years and I even believe that some of the shims supplied originally on my car were the slotted style. My frame does have the cotter pin holes but no cotter pins were ever originally installed. The shim pack must be TIGHT. To do this, once the correct shim pack is determined, the thickest shim needs to be removed just before the last and thinnest shim is installed. Then, the thick shim needs to be driven in with a hammer. Finally, the shim packs should be rotated downward so that they are completely "tucked into" the "pocket" in the frame. I have NEVER lost a shim on mine in almost 45 years.

If you wish, you could add the cotter pin holes to the frame and use cotter pins to ensure retention but it's not really necessary.

Thanks Joe,

I'll take a look at the bolt, maybe I'll get off easy on this one

[Edward J.]

Re: Missing trailing arm shims

Roger, those shims control the toe adjustment. The camber adjustment is under the rear diff. area. Anytime the rear suspension is adjusted at any point for rear alignement the securing bolts must really be cranked tight.