1962 dash pad replacement GRAB BAR

[Richard M.]

Re: 1962 dash pad replacement GRAB BAR

Greg, See this document. It's in the Sticky of Documents above under "Dash C1".

1958 to 1962 Dashpad Installation Procedure 6-10--17 96ppi.pdf

There's a section in there for the Grab Bar, around pg 14, then later to install it after pg 30.

If after reading it and you still have trouble, post back with a description of your problem and I'll try to help.

Rich

[Gregory C.]

Re: 1962 dash pad replacement GRAB BAR

Geez Rich that really helped visually.

My first surprise was that the grab bar sit directly on to of the left and right grab bar bracket with each of the nut plates inserted into the center of the grab bar itself !

When I originally disassembled a week ago, I do not remember that being the case. Dunno why, but that is what was throwing me off but I guess I just missed that when disassembling for replacement. I did carefully trim / curve the dash pad with an sharp exacto knife. I also figured out that I had to jockey the left bracket a bit to get it to line up with the mounting screws / holes. I also discovered that the reproduction nut plate and bolts took different thread / head (hex) vs the original clutch bolts that hold it all together. So I just used my 60 year old nut plates vs the ones that came with the repro replacement. During removal of the left bracket, I had no difficulty with the left bracket mounting / clutch bolt removal (they were in firmly however) and never took off the right mounting bracket.

Now that I read this suggested assembly thanks to your guidance here is my plan of what to do during assembly;
1. I will ground down the left hand mounting bracket to avoid sharp edges that may damage the dash pad during insertion.
2. I will also replace both large clutch head mounting bracket bolts with the hex heads of the same size / thread vs original clutch heads.
3. Now I know to only insert the nut plates inside each end of the bar / bar frame, align the clutch screws from the bottom with the nut plate holes inside the grab bar frame and start the clutch head screws so I can center for correct fit.
4. I will slide the chrome finishing ends and screw into place on the engine side of the grab bar.
That should do it !

I will post back Rich to let you know how it went - thanks for making this look a lot simpler than I thought was making it out to be...

[Gregory C.]

Re: 1962 dash pad replacement GRAB BAR

Rich,

All Done ! Praise the Baby Jesus and Moses too ! And thanks for your help in getting this done.

This was not easy if you are not simultaneously replacing the dash pad.

I did round the mounting bracket corners as suggested. That really helped with the risk of sharp edges very close to either side of the dash pad upon installation. And I did replace the mounting bolts from clutch heads to hex heads and careful dash t******* as suggested in the article were very helpful.

A slightly protruding nut plate is used inside the grab bar with clutch head bolts from below through the mounting brackets to firmly anchor the grab bar. Unfortunately, the grab bar replacement used hex head bolts with different threads than the original. To maintain originality of the visible clutch head bolts, I chose to use my original nut plates and clutch head bolts. It is very important that you slide / position the two chrome end caps correctly before you do anything else. The chrome finishing open ends should be facing outward toward each end of the grab bar toward the center - enough to clear your future mounting bracket work from below.

However, it was challenging (insert swear words here) to get the nut plate in proper alignment in order to have the bolt grab from the bottom of the bar through the mounting bracket to the nut plate. I figured out this was cuz' the replacement product did not have an automatic nut plate "stop" inside grab bar superstructure. With the replacement grab bar, when you insert the nut plates into the ends they want to free fall into the middle of the bar or out the other end. Anchoring the left side first will then allow you to swing the replacement bar into the final correct position.

However as described below, I suggest you consider riggin a thin shim (i used wood) for the right side to hold the nut plates in place so you can line the bolt holes up to catch the clutch head bolts for installation from below. I found it unnecessary to shim the left side by inserting the outside bolt first then with the bar parallel to the car and pressing down on the replacement bar from above with your dominant hand and screwing the clutch head bolt from below with the other hand get the outside one started.

Like everything else on these cars, there is a trial and error trick to getting the grab bar by doing the left side first, while in hand anchoring the inside bolt from the bottom of the bar as a pilot to engage the nut plate with the clutch bolt on the INSIDE of the grab bar bolt. That lines up the nut plate for the outside bolt as you have the bar pointing toward you. You can then insert the outside bolt with you dominant hand while using your other hand to press down on the bar and catch the nut plate with the clutch head screw. the bar then sits parallel to the car with the screw not snugged down. Then you remove the inside bolt cuz' you have the outside bolt anchored. Then remove the inside bolt as it will be one of the last items to be inserted / snugged down.

Place the grab bar (make sure you have the finishing end caps aligned properly!) pushing on the bar toward the driver side will allow you to swivel the bar to align over the right hand mounting plate to its desired position without damaging the dash pad. Inserting the two original clutch head bolts into the previously shimmed / now aligned nut plate were the final steps. Dominant hand pressing down on the top of the bar on the right side while simultaneously using the other hand to "catch" the nut plate with the original clutch head bolt to get one of them started. I chose to do the outside bolt first and used the same technique for the inside bolt. Only then, did I proceed to alternate / torque down all four clutch head bolts.

Sliding the two chrome finishing pieces to the right / left (over the mounting bracket) were made much easier by applying some WD40 to the underside and top of the grab bar. The final step was to anchor those chrome finishing pieces snug against the dashboard using correct chromed sheet metal screws into the holes provided.

Whew ! Sounds easy now cuz' of your help and looks good too !

[Richard M.]

Re: 1962 dash pad replacement GRAB BAR

Greg, Glad it helped.

Another way to hold the nutplates in place is to thread studs into each one through the holes in the garb bar, place the bar over the brackets, then replace studs one at a time with the clutch heads screws.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1962 dash pad replacement GRAB BAR

Also for future reference, the replacement grab bar nut plates are not configured like originals.

Originals - Note the slotted area for the finishing screw to be attached to from underneath. The slot allows variable placement of the screw.
0204211221_resized.jpg 0204211355a_resized.jpg

Reproductions - Require you to drill the hole for the screw. I have actually modified repros with a Dremel to replicate the slots.
i-1048.jpg


Rich

[Gregory C.]

Re: 1962 dash pad replacement GRAB BAR

Rich,

Using my original for comparison, I saw that was an alternative and did consider that as well - even tested the sheet metal crews for fit. However, I elected to not damage the $90 grab bar repro but to try and make it work.

I easily figured anchoring the left hand outside clutch head screw installation but when it came to installing the right side of the bar to the mounting plate, I trimmed a matching piece of thin shim wood for portion where the nuts were - just to hold it in place. Right before I swung the after I swung the bar to the right, I carefully inserted the plate with shim. Once in place, I confirmed the pilot using a thin screw driver then loaded the clutch head on a screw driver, and pressed hard with my palm on the right hand top of the grab bar. Then, I slowly caught the nut plate bolt from below on the outside and it was easy after that.

I have to tell you that had you not sent me those pics of a simultaneous bar and pad installation I was looking around for a rusty sharp object(s). Knowing what I know now, this replacement should take about 1 hr. with a repro grab bar. I certainly hope this instruction string helps another NCRS member like you helped me. Thanks again.

On a thank you finishing note, I just ordered a bag of "repro goodies" from Zip Corvette that I was dinged for at the show. The worst of which is the water pump replacement. I started on my windshield washer hoses and even using the Corvette Restorer article by Ed Gurdjian (circa Spring 1980) it is still confusing how to match up the hoses sent in a kit for installation. I am going to research that one as soon as I end this thank you note to you.

[Gregory C.]

Re: 1962 dash pad replacement GRAB BAR

Rich (and everyone else on the thread),

I found a video of a prototype 53 Corvette on line - about 32 minutes and wanted to share with you.

This video may be old news to you but I found it fascinating..enjoy..

https://youtu.be/kPSZ77Hp7Pg