best way to install a 67 AC dash assembly

[Keith B.]

thinking ahead on dads 67 project the dash is completely out of the car. I need to respray it to bring back the color but other then that its in good shape yet. I read on here from John H. that at St. Louis that the workers put the I.C. in the dash with the wire harness attached along with the clock, and radio. is the completely feasible to do at home and with a car with AC? can you get to the top duct with the glove box out to attach the hoses? and we have a new LL harness to plug in so its not molded around anything.

any comments welcome.

[Jimmy B.]

Re: best way to install a 67 AC dash assembly

Keith, I've been doing my 65 dash for sometime now. The answer is you need a little help from some friends. At least for me my wife and daughter helped. Yes you can get to the upper rh hose with the glove box out however the upper lh hose I strongly suggest do not have the dash cluster installed yet OR have your hoses in place with the cables running through them per the AIM then lower the dash into position. Just hint I reused my old cables as I thought they were good. About the 3rd time I pulled out the defrost cable it broke, it was really fun re-installing a new one with the dash in. I had the new ac wiring already installed in the car prior to installing the dash and had also replaced the vacuum switch below the glove box for the heater control valve Also, the vacuum hoses going to this switch were replaced with a kit I purchased Problems I encountered there was thar no way in hell was that black w/white stripe vacuum hose would go from my heater shut off valve in the engine compartment up the cowl, into that 4 hole rubber plug by the wiper motor and then to the vacuum switch under the glove box area reach far enough. Finally, since I had inadvertantly purchased 2 ac hose kits from a vendor the light went off, I cut the hose with the white stripe and spliced it under the dash so it is clean in the engine compartment side and all is well, now my hose is a little loose and not drawn tight like a bow string. Don't forget that a/c dash has a total of 3 small lights at the bottom of the clock mounting bracket to light the dash up for the pull cables, these have the green tips on them and the wire harness for 2 of them runs directly to your fuse box. Also I encountered another problem, make sure you cut those to ac flex hoses adequately for the cables either entering or exiting on the far end. don't make the cuts so tight at least for me this was another problem area. Also I installed a felt kit for the ac chrome duct balls, they are now nice and tight and stay where you adjust them. Anymore questions email or call me 941 531 3147. Good luck.

[John C.]

Re: best way to install a 67 AC dash assembly

Hey Jimmy, could I hi-jack the post for a quick question ? I also have my gauge cluster, glove box, radio, etc out for new bulbs and reconditioning. I noticed that 2 of the clock bullet lights get their ground from the spring clips that hold the clock in place. But the center bulb doesn't have an apparent ground, so what grounds this one ?
JC

[John H.]

Re: best way to install a 67 AC dash assembly

Hey Jimmy, could I hi-jack the post for a quick question ? I also have my gauge cluster, glove box, radio, etc out for new bulbs and reconditioning. I noticed that 2 of the clock bullet lights get their ground from the spring clips that hold the clock in place. But the center bulb doesn't have an apparent ground, so what grounds this one ?
JC

John -

All three "torpedo" lamps (the center standard one and the added two that come with A/C) get their ground from the O.D. of the clock case.

[Dino L.]

Re: best way to install a 67 AC dash assembly

is it true on a C2 factory AC installation that the clock bracket is different, the hood opening bracket is taller and the speaker is also different for clearance....three special pieces in C60?

[John H.]

Re: best way to install a 67 AC dash assembly

is it true on a C2 factory AC installation that the clock bracket is different, the hood opening bracket is taller and the speaker is also different for clearance....three special pieces in C60?

Dino -

The P/N 3848020 3-slot clock bracket (to accommodate the two extra A/C "torpedo" lamps) was used on all cars starting in 1964, through 1967. The hood release mounting bracket is about 1" longer on an A/C car from '63-'66. The narrower (vertically) speaker for A/C has been debated for years, but I have a P/N 7282256 for it in my notes (vs. 7282156 for the regular speaker), but I'm not sure about it.

[Keith B.]

Re: best way to install a 67 AC dash assembly

so any more inputs on the best way to go about this.

[John H.]

Re: best way to install a 67 AC dash assembly

thinking ahead on dads 67 project the dash is completely out of the car. I need to respray it to bring back the color but other then that its in good shape yet. I read on here from John H. that at St. Louis that the workers put the I.C. in the dash with the wire harness attached along with the clock, and radio. is the completely feasible to do at home and with a car with AC? can you get to the top duct with the glove box out to attach the hoses? and we have a new LL harness to plug in so its not molded around anything.

any comments welcome.

Keith -

In the plant, the speaker and radio were already installed in the dash (along with the upper ductwork on an A/C car), and the dash harness was pre-assembled to the instrument cluster off-line on the bench. The cluster/harness assembly was taken to the car, the fuse block was routed over the IP brace, the right side wiring was routed over that way, the cluster was installed, then the fuse block was installed and the leads connected to the dimmer switch. Glove box and lower ductwork went in last.