The carb on my 66' 425hp car needs to be looked at and likely rebuilt. Its an original 3247 that was rebuilt about 15 years ago. After a drive yesterday, went to adjust the idle screw and noticed a steady amount of fuel dripping from one of the booster venturi. Anyhow, in researching the archives for card rebuilders the name of Eric Jackson was recommended a number of times along with Jerry McNeish, I assume they continue to do good work? Also, looks like removing the carb is pretty straight forward, any hidden surprises I should be aware of? Thanks and Happy New Year
Carb Rebuilder
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Re: Carb Rebuilder
The carb on my 66' 425hp car needs to be looked at and likely rebuilt. Its an original 3247 that was rebuilt about 15 years ago. After a drive yesterday, went to adjust the idle screw and noticed a steady amount of fuel dripping from one of the booster venturi. Anyhow, in researching the archives for card rebuilders the name of Eric Jackson was recommended a number of times along with Jerry McNeish, I assume they continue to do good work? Also, looks like removing the carb is pretty straight forward, any hidden surprises I should be aware of? Thanks and Happy New Year
John------
Removing the carb is very simple and straightforward. One tip: make sure you use a TUBING WRENCH on any of the tubing nuts. In the case of the two that screw into the carburetor, make sure that you also retain with an open end wrench the fittings which thread into the float bowl while you remove the tubing nut with the tubing wrench.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: Carb Rebuilder
Eric does good work, stands behind his work if there are ant problems, and communicates well with his customers.- Top
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Re: Carb Rebuilder
One piece of advice is... make sure the internal soft parts are replaced with upgraded parts that are compatible with today's crap gas. Ethanol isn't friendly to yesterdays fuel systems. Another thought is what your seeing down the venturis could be "boil over". Today's gas has a lower boiling point than yesterdays gas. The float settings need to be slightly lower than what the spec was for gas 50 years ago. The tel-tale sign is a rough rich idle. Look down the carb when idling at op temp. If you see gas burbbling out where it shouldn't this may be the prob. This info was recently given to me directly from one of the guys who was involved with the design of QJets at Delphi (Rochester Products, Delco etc..) A reputable carb guy should know all this but Ill post for all.- Top
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Re: Carb Rebuilder
John,
How did the engine run and idle when you started and after driving the car? If the engine was hot at shut down, fuel percolation in the main well could have pushed some fuel out of the nozzle inside the boosters. Make sure the idle and main air bleeds are clean but watch your eyes and car paint if you spray carb gumout. These bleeds help vent the main well to keep your condition from happening.
If the engine ran OK the carburetor may not need to be overhauled, check the float level it should be just below the sight plug licking the bottom of the sight plug threads. Today's fuel is a problem in hot weather but you can tune around it many times just by wiring the heat riser open for the hot weather. When the weather changes, your engine will need that heat under the carburetor.- Top
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Re: Carb Rebuilder
The company in Long Island is Competition carburetor or long Island carburetor rebuildersI just sent them my original Holley off my 67 to get rebuilt.My friend with a 65 had a good experience with them alsoHighly recommendedEnzo Colosimo
Ncrs Ontario Chapter Chairman 🇨🇦
ENZ-Z06/67
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