Re: Plating for Bolts, nuts, brackets during frame restore
For DIY Parkerizing, I have had good results with the Manganese Phosphate Parkerizing Kits from Shooter Solutions. The $30 8 oz kit worked for all the bolts, hood latches and even seat rails from a complete resto. I first bead blasted or used a wire wheel on my grinder, then cleaned in a strong solution of Simply Green. I bought stainless restaurant steam table pans, used one for solution, one to preheat/rinse with water, and an empty one to squirt with the finishing oil (which smells like it is WD-40). For small jobs I heat the solution in the microwave in a Pyrex measuring cup and then drop the parts in (when the wife isn't at home!). For big jobs, "cooked" on the grill! The depth of grey/black seems to be a function of the metal content, some parts got close to black, some closer to grey. A far superior solution to the DIY black oxide kits.
And yes, the hardest part is figuring out the correct finish. If you can find a copy of the "Factbook" by Dobbins for either C2 or C3, there are several pages towards the back with a summary of finishes. I also used the amkproducts website to look up GM numbers and see the finish for nuts, washers and bolts.
For DIY Parkerizing, I have had good results with the Manganese Phosphate Parkerizing Kits from Shooter Solutions. The $30 8 oz kit worked for all the bolts, hood latches and even seat rails from a complete resto. I first bead blasted or used a wire wheel on my grinder, then cleaned in a strong solution of Simply Green. I bought stainless restaurant steam table pans, used one for solution, one to preheat/rinse with water, and an empty one to squirt with the finishing oil (which smells like it is WD-40). For small jobs I heat the solution in the microwave in a Pyrex measuring cup and then drop the parts in (when the wife isn't at home!). For big jobs, "cooked" on the grill! The depth of grey/black seems to be a function of the metal content, some parts got close to black, some closer to grey. A far superior solution to the DIY black oxide kits.
And yes, the hardest part is figuring out the correct finish. If you can find a copy of the "Factbook" by Dobbins for either C2 or C3, there are several pages towards the back with a summary of finishes. I also used the amkproducts website to look up GM numbers and see the finish for nuts, washers and bolts.
Comment