My 1964 327 365hp appears to have developed a slight leak which I thought was coming up the threads on two intake bolts. I removed them, applied thread sealer and snugged them down. Before I torque these two should I loosen all of the intake manifold bolts and torque in sequence or can I simply torque the two I removed? I'm not sure that is where the leak is coming from as the threads on the bolts were dry. Thanks, Mike
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Re: Torque intake manifold bolt sequence
Mike------
You do NOT need to loosen all the other bolts and, as a mater of fact, I would NOT recommend doing so. Just install the 2 that you removed and torque them to spec. You might want to be sure that all the other bolts remain torqued to spec so after you install the 2 bolts and torque to spec, go around all the bolts in the specified torque sequence.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: Torque intake manifold bolt sequence
Thanks Joe. I can't get my socket and torque wrench to line up straight on the two bolts that I removed. Tightened them down as best I could. Looks like carborator needs to come off to get a straight shot on the bolts. Will tightening them by feel without torquing cause a problem with the manifold? Thanks again, MikeComment
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Re: Torque intake manifold bolt sequence
Mike------
Probably not as long as you got them tight enough. You can use a TORQUE ADAPTER with a torque wrench to get at these bolts. A torque adapter is like a short box end wrench with a square drive on the other end.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Torque intake manifold bolt sequence
Oil or anti-freeze leaking ?And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance
I hope you dance
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Re: Torque intake manifold bolt sequence
Do you have a universal joint? This can give you some play on the angle. However, torques on parts like this are important, but not critical. All of the bolts just need to be close to each other, and tight enough not to leak. Take a bolt that you can reach with the torque wrench and slightly loosen it. Put a box wrench on it and tighten to what you feel is the proper torque. Then check it with the torque wrench. You can practice this several times if you wish. Now you've developed the "feel" to get close to the other bolts. One more thing, lifting the carb is not a big job. You might want to rethink removing it to get your torque wrench in there, but I probably would'nt do it.
PaulComment
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Re: Torque intake manifold bolt sequence
I believe all of us who have worked with Chevy V8's over the years have used box end wrenches with a "learned" feel to tighten intake manifold bolts. I admit to only one failure and that was on a dual quad aluminum manifold - ouch!
Stu FoxComment
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Re: Torque intake manifold bolt sequence
Well Ray. A lesson learned. After tightening the 2 intake manifold bolts (only two I removed as they appeared to be leaking; they weren't because the threads were dry) and cleaning what I thought was oil off the manifold, I decided to fire it up and take it for a spin. But, I thought why not start it and look for leaks before driving off. So I started the car, got out and walked around the driver's side and looked at the running engine. Gasoline was running, not just dripping by the rear bowl cover where the tube feeding it from the front bowl comes from. Needless to say I shut it off right away. Removed the bowl cover and tube. O-ring on the feeder tube is split. I wonder how much I drove the car with this leak. I carry a fire extinguisher but don't ever want to use it. Lesson 1) Check under hood frequently with engine off and running for anything unusual; leaks, split belts or hoses. 2) In addition to looking for leaking fluid sources with the engine off, check with engine running before taking anything apart. Now to track down the correct o-ring. Thank you and all others that responded. MikeComment
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