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What's the best/recommended way to install the captive belt on a 1966 BB no AC? My car didn't have one when I bought it years ago.
Thanks
Vincent------
My recommendation is to remove the crank pulley, install the belt and then pull down on the pulley until the centering ring on the rear of the pulley "snaps into" the balancer orifice. Then, rotate the pulley until the 3 bolt holes line up with the holes in the balancer.
....My recommendation is to remove the crank pulley, install the belt and then pull down on the pulley until the centering ring on the rear of the pulley "snaps into" the balancer orifice. Then, rotate the pulley until the 3 bolt holes line up with the holes in the balancer.
Or, maybe a tad more stretching, remove the water pump pulley, insert belt in correct crank and W.P. pulley grooves, then pull up until the pump flange shaft slips into the pulley hole.
I also have always installed this belt the method that Wayne describes. You can usually get enough stretch in the belt and some tilt angle on the water pump pulley to get it to go over the water pump shaft. You can even make a stud to screw into one of the holes for the water pump pulley - this will act as a guide for aligning the rest of the water pump bolts and then replace the stud with a bolt. Or, just use a pointed dowel to align the bolt holes.
Or, maybe a tad more stretching, remove the water pump pulley, insert belt in correct crank and W.P. pulley grooves, then pull up until the pump flange shaft slips into the pulley hole.
Wayne------
This is how I used to do it. However, I found it was a lot more of a struggle than the method I described above. The only problem is that, in some cases, it may be too difficult to get to the crank pulley due to the radiator fan shroud.
Thanks again. Installed the belt yesterday by removing the crank pulley from the top (under the hood). I already had the alternator out of the car as I've been rebuilding the front suspension and steering. I was fearing the worst when I checked all the previous posts on different belt lenghts but mine went right on with no problem (belt was purchased from Corvette Central). The weight of the crank pulley itself actually caused it to just drop in place ans seat itself as Joe noted; didn't have to pull or push down at all. Finally some thing on my car went in easily; it took about 30 mins.
This is a question - not an opinion. But if the pulley goes on "too" easily, can it be an indication that the belt is too loose and might slip under load? I ask because I have heard several people claim that after market captured belts don't fit correctly and that only NOS GM belts can be trusted. I will soon need to install the captured belt on my '69 L36.
Thanx
'69 Blue/Blue L36 Vert w/ 4-Spd
'73 Blue/Blue L48 Coupe w/ 4-Spd
'96 Red/Black LT-4 Convertible "Drive it like you stole it"
This is a question - not an opinion. But if the pulley goes on "too" easily, can it be an indication that the belt is too loose and might slip under load? I ask because I have heard several people claim that after market captured belts don't fit correctly and that only NOS GM belts can be trusted. I will soon need to install the captured belt on my '69 L36.
Thanx
Floyd -
That's why there's a "long" and "short" version of the captive belt. If one's too loose or too tight, the other one will fit (if you have the correct pulleys). Functionally, if it's on the loose side, it only matters if the primary (crank-WP-alt) belt breaks.
That occurred to me also. When I push on the belt at mid-span it deflects about a half inch; probably too much for the short span. I have not started the engine yet...will probably do it today or tomorrow and see how it works. I'll let you know.
Started the engine today and the belt is fine...no slipping and sits deep/tight in the pulley/s. It's a short belt so I don't think it's going to stretch much.
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