The shims on my 63 trailing arms keep falling out. ( the arm to the frame shims ) Anybody have a fix for this problem. Thanks in advance. ( that a 63 for you)
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Re: 63 trailing arms
The shims should be tight and not able to fall out. Many use the later style that is not slotted but they should be tight also. No movement at all when the bolt is tight.It's a good life!
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Re: 63 trailing arms
The original two-holed shims cannot fall out by design, so I assume you're using the newer style slotted type introduced in the early C3 years. If so, the installation is completed by drilling a hole in the lower corner of the frame pocket which allows insertion of a long cotter pin to secure the other end of the shims.
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Re: 63 trailing arms
The shims are tight and they are original 63 shims. When the trailing are moves up and down, the shims seem to move with it, working loose and falling out. The cotter pin was not used in 63. still falling out.Comment
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Re: 63 trailing arms
If you have the original style shims then they can't fall out. The original shims don't have a slot they have a hole. The bolt retaining the trailing arm to the frame goes through the hole. Even if the shims are installed loose they still can't fall out beacuse of the bolt.Comment
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Re: 63 trailing arms
You must have an early 63 with the slotted shims and straight bolt.
See 63 Rear Suspension Pamphlet
Now if you want to keep the area as close to original as possible get some thin 2 hole shims, slot top hole and make tight as Paul mentioned.
I would suspect something is not quit right here since those shims must be held solid by rust. Has the bearing been changed?
Note the above picture shows the later replacement shims that are shorter
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Re: 63 trailing arms
If the trailing arm bushing is properly installed,
and if the shim pack is tight (the last shim, a thick one, should have to be tapped in),
and if the pivot bolt nut is properly torqued at normal ride height,
and if the frame in the area has not lost significant material due to corrosion,
the shims should not fall out, and there should be no noticeable "flex" in the frame or shims when the suspension is moved up and down. The only flex should be in the bushing.
DukeComment
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Re: 63 trailing arms
I had a bit of corrosion, so I " tossed " my trailing arms.Comment
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Re: 63 trailing arms
Gary,
If the control arms have had new bushings installed recently, I'll bet they're not installed correctly. Very common problem.
The bushings absolutely MUST be completely compressed before the center tube is flaired.
If not done exactly this way, I can guarantee that you will always have loose shims.Comment
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Re: 63 trailing arms
My shims are the early type, with just a small slot in them. Trailing arms are rebuilt, all new parts, I will check the bushing this weekend for tightness. This could could be the problem. Will let you know. Thanks.Comment
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Re: 63 trailing arms
Gary, Alan, Duke and Michael have it right. Early 63s have a slotted shim and no cotter pin.
You must install the shims with the weight on the suspension. If you tighten up the bolts with the car on a jack the shims will come loose.
Install the shims by hand, then remove one of the thick shims. add 1 more of the thinnest shims to that area where you removed the thick one. Then force the thick one back in with a hammer.
Now tighten your pivot bolt and the shims will not come out.
As long as your bushings are installed correctly and are original style rubber bushings you are all set.
Good Luck, JoeComment
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Re: 63 trailing arms
Thank Joe, With all this great information, I'm sure I will not have a problem. Thanks everybody.Comment
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