64 body lift learning curve
WHERE IS THAT ELUSIVE BALANCE POINT! After reading everything I could find, looking at as many pictures as I could find, watching dvds and anything else I could think of. I lifted the body off my 64 yesterday. Note to self! "Probably a good idea to have a friend to help next time!" When I got the body up on the hoist I thought it was to late to lower again and reset the body harness even though the back end was 3 feet higher than the front end. The front harness clips were already set all the way to the front of the rocker panel area. Is it really safe to put the front clip in the wheel well location without cracking the front of the body quarter panel? Thankfully I have a tractor with a bucket to lift the front end independenly of the harness and could slide the frame out the side of the car as it was already sitting on wheel dollies. LEARNING CURVES ARE GREAT! So where is the best place to set the clips on commercially available body harnesses on a midyear? The end result is everything is safe and secure BUT it was not nearly as smooth as Noland Adams's DVD makes it look.
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Re: 64 body lift learning curve
It definitely is not safe to lift forward of the bird cage on the fenders. I am sure you would be assured of a pair of broken fenders and probably a lot worse. -
Re: 64 body lift learning curve
I prefer a sling 4 hooks placed just infrequent and back by the door post.
Placed some other straps to help bracing. Convertible. No problems . I am surprised you had a problem getting the correct info. Lots on u-tube and this web site. Please post some pictures of your project. Cheers.
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Re: 64 body lift learning curve
On my coupe the center balance point was about top of the windshield opening. I lifted using 4 straps hooked under the birdcage just at the forward door opening and just ahead of the rear wheel opening. I used spreader bars to keep the straps off the painted sides of the body and then connected them together in an "H" pattern. I then lifted on the tiebar of the "H" above the windshield opening. By lifting with the front slightly high I could guide the body off and on using long bolts placed in the rearmost mounts to keep everything aligned... especially during the replacement back on the frame. I was able to set the body back on the frame with the engine already complete, including the distributor, without fear of interferences of firewall to engine etc. I used a chain hoist as my lifting device.
Link to photos https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?t=65144Comment
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Re: 64 body lift learning curve
I removed and re-installed the body on my 64 roadster without problems. Coming off I removed the doors and used turnbuckles and cable srcrewed into the front and rear door jambs to brace in one direction. I inserted 2 x 4s in the door openings before tightening the cables to brace in the opposite direction.
I then positioned the hook of my lift (engine hoist) above the lower edge of the windshield (and above the windshield frame so the rope would pass above the frame). I used rope to attach around the top of the rear deck lid spring towers, through the hook, down to and around the end of the "Z" brace, back to the hook, forward to and around the end of the radiator support, back to the hook, forward the the radiator support on the opposite side of the car, then made the second side of the car identical to the first side.
Going back on I didn't want to remove the correctly aligned doors so I placed thick pieces of rubber between the rear edge of the door and the door jamb in case there was any flex there. I attached at the same points to lift the body off its dolly. No problems going back on but it is important to get the body hanging horizontal before placing it back on the frame.Comment
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