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i just blew a fuse on the headlamp circuit of my black car. It was a 10A fuse, but the printing on the fuse block is gone, so I can't tell if it was the correct fuse. I don't have a manual here, so can someone please tell me if it was supposed to be 10A? (my blue car is not here, or else I could just look at it)
Thanks,
Mike
1965 Black Ext / Silver Int. Coupe, L84 Duntov, French Lick, 2023 - Triple Diamond
1965 Red Ext / White & Red Int. Conv. - 327/250 AC Regional Top Flight.
i just blew a fuse on the headlamp circuit of my black car. It was a 10A fuse, but the printing on the fuse block is gone, so I can't tell if it was the correct fuse. I don't have a manual here, so can someone please tell me if it was supposed to be 10A? (my blue car is not here, or else I could just look at it)
Thanks,
Mike -
There are no fuses in the headlamp system - the headlamp switch has an internal self-resetting circuit breaker in the feed circuit to the dimmer switch, and the headlamp bucket motor feed has a separate self-resetting circuit breaker above the left kickpad.
The fuse block, top to bottom, reads as follows:
Brk Al GasGa. 10A
Heater 10A
Radio 7-1/2A
Panel Lps 4A
Tail Lps 10A
Courtesy Stop Lps 20A
Ah, the plot thickens....the second fuse from the top said "HEA" and a bunch of white scraped paint...I interpreted that to be the first three letters of "HEADLAMP" not "HEATER". Since the lights stopped rotating and I found that fuse had burned out, I put two and two together and got six...
The problem is that the lamps still light up, they just stopped rotating... so now I've gotta figure out why they quit spinning, they worked yesterday...any suggestions?
Last edited by Michael G.; August 9, 2011, 12:13 AM.
Mike
1965 Black Ext / Silver Int. Coupe, L84 Duntov, French Lick, 2023 - Triple Diamond
1965 Red Ext / White & Red Int. Conv. - 327/250 AC Regional Top Flight.
The rotation switch on the bottom of the dash connects positive terminals when moved up/down. Sometimes the contacts inside the switch will frost from sparking and the switch will stop working.
If you remove the switch from under the dash and unplug, you can short the terminals to bypass the switch and see if the buckets rotate. Before you do that get a volt meter and remove the plug at the headlight motor to check for 12 volts at the plug when someone moves the switch up/down.
It may be a good idea to get a 1963 wiring diagram and see how the headlight harness grounds so you can check this first. The ground bundle grounds at the core support with a small screw and serrated washer on the drivers side near where the harness goes over the top of the core support.
I did an article many years ago for the Ontario Chapter on the bucket switch but I have not been able to locate it. I know there are a couple of others floating around.
If you are taking it off be careful with the connector on the back of the switch. They are not very robust.
Look on each side of the switch and you will see a small hole. Stick a paper clip in and push, this will release the spring clips and you can pull them straight out. Once you have it open it's pretty straightforward. Check the points for pitting but don't forget to check the corners of the rocker for wear.
Ah, the plot thickens....the second fuse from the top said "HEA" and a bunch of white scraped paint...I interpreted that to be the first three letters of "HEADLAMP" not "HEATER". Since the lights stopped rotating and I found that fuse had burned out, I put two and two together and got six...
The problem is that the lamps still light up, they just stopped rotating... so now I've gotta figure out why they quit spinning, they worked yesterday...any suggestions?
Before you do anything else, check the fuse block connector(s) at the driver side firewall (engine side of firewall). You probably have one of the gang plugs/connectors that came loose. They are held in place by two thin plastic clips or barbs.
If you can't tell, then pull one the connectors to the headlight motors and test for voltage at this point. Then work back from there. In my experience, the headlight up/down switch may go bad, but not suddenly or overnight....especially in both the up and the down directions. However, the firewall fuse block connector(s) are a different story. Ask me how I know this.....
You can also do a quick check at the circuit breaker that supplys voltage to the headlight up/down switch. It is located next to the dimmer switch at the driver side footwell. Should have battery voltage at both terminals.
I tightened the ground, then had someone try the switch again. Standing by the headlights, I could hear a "click" at the lamps each time the switch was toggled to the downward position (it apparently works in that position, but the lights are down, so it just clicks).
I then wiggled the toggle a few times. The lamps clicked each time in the downward position, but, nothing in the upward position. Then, on one of the upward toggles, a brief contact was made within the switch. This moved the lamps slightly. I then rotated them easily back to the full down position with the switch, but, I couldn't repeat this with more wiggling of the toggle.
I couldn't find a switch rebuilding article on the 63-63 restorer CD, but with Ken's info I did. Thanks
Mike
1965 Black Ext / Silver Int. Coupe, L84 Duntov, French Lick, 2023 - Triple Diamond
1965 Red Ext / White & Red Int. Conv. - 327/250 AC Regional Top Flight.
I am not sure if the terminals inside the switch are plated but it seems like after they get frosted it's difficult to get them to work good again. This switch is still available from GM restoration, it may be the way to go.
I am not sure if the switch is any different than the original so see what others think, don't throw the original away.
I took the old switch apart. The contacts are pretty corroded, I'm surprised that they made contact for this long. I'm gonna restore it as best I can, we'll see if I can get good conductivity with cleaned contacts.
I bought a new one that I'm going to put in its place on the black car for now. After I restore the original switch, I'll put the restored one in my blue car, as I got a deduct for a non-original switch last month.
If you look closely, there are visual differences between the original and the new one. The biggest difference is in the shape of the toggle and hue of the chrome plating on the toggle. It looks like the toggle on the new one is stamped, but I'm not going to take it apart to verify that.
Mike
1965 Black Ext / Silver Int. Coupe, L84 Duntov, French Lick, 2023 - Triple Diamond
1965 Red Ext / White & Red Int. Conv. - 327/250 AC Regional Top Flight.
I have been casually looking for those clips for a few years. We even had a gentleman up here called the "Clip Man" that had virtually every clip known to man but even he couldn't come up with them. Obviously someone must be making them otherwise they could not be reproducing the switches. If you ever come across a source let us know.
At one time Paragon used to sell the switch internal contacts (module) and the clips. I purchased both items from them. I think they later ran out of the modules, but may still have a few clips.....you could call and ask. The clip was Part #1390. About $1 apiece.
I would also try DR REBUILD. He may have a stash somewhere in his warehouse. You never know with the DR.
63 headlamp fuse
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