67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

[Gary R.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Joe
Buy a Motive bleeder, you'll use it. It is something you can do,will work great on your car and will be able to flush out the old BF. You will put the time and effort into the job, others may not.

The motive will bleed one section( circuit) at a time on dual systems. It holds enough clean BF to flush the circuit no problem. Use a clear tube that fits over the bleeder screw and long enough to reach into a clear qt bottle. Place some clean BF in the Qt bottle so the hose is submerged in it.
Install the bleeder on the MC and pump it up to 10-12 PSI watch the gauge a few minutes to see if it drops, if so you have a leak somewhere. If not then go to the farthest caliper and open the bleeder screw and watch for dirty fluid in the line. I go from caliper to caliper in the circuit and bleed them. Once you get clear fluid out from both calipers you're done with that circuit.

The biggest PITA with this job is putting the car on jack stands. I hate that the most.

[Terry M.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

You got it,
the fluid is clear not purple - so DOT 3 or 4 it is.
Your system sounds great but may be a little beyond my construction skills.
Know anything about these "power break bleeders" that are advertised in Mid America or CC catalogs?
Maybe I should just do the breaks then take it to the "pro" and let them bleed it.
I need a set of tires anyway.
Joe

One can NOT assess the difference between DOT 3, 4, or 5.1 and DOT 5 by color. New in the bottle the color is an indicator, but after a couple of years in a brake system the purple in DOT 5 will go away and the color will be pretty much amber for either fluid.

Your archive search has not been very thorough if you have not found the test to tell the difference. It has been posted three or four times by various of us.

Put a few ounces of your brake fluid into a see through container. Add some water and shake it up. Let it set for five minutes or so. If there are two separate liquids in the container it is DOT5, if it is a homogeneous (I love to write that word) milky white fluid you have DOT 3, 4, or 5.1 in your system.

[Michael W.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

You got it,
the fluid is clear not purple - so DOT 3 or 4 it is.
Your system sounds great but may be a little beyond my construction skills.
Know anything about these "power break bleeders" that are advertised in Mid America or CC catalogs?
Maybe I should just do the breaks then take it to the "pro" and let them bleed it.
I need a set of tires anyway.
Joe

Joe,

The purple DOT5 loses it's colour eventually so this is not a sure fire way of determining what type it is. Take a sample and mix it in a closed glass jar by shaking. If it seperates back to fluid and water, it's DOT5. If it stays mixed it's DOT 3, or 4 or possibly 5.1.

[Joseph U.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Thanks,
I never did a search to determine the difference between DOT 3-4 and 5 (that one I never thought of) - but the test makes perfect sense (ah physics). And might as well get a pressure bleeder - it would probably cost that much at a shop and I would kill a day watching them to make sure they didn't spill BF all over my lacquer paint.
Thanks for the help.
Joe

[Paul J.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

OK - I give up - what is the difference in taste between DOT 3/4 and DOT 5?
I will check the old posts on pressure bleeders.
Thanks,
Joe

Joe, tasting brake fluid and anti freeze is a bad idea. The taste test was accepted a long time ago before we knew about the long term neurological effects of ingestion. Even though the amount of glycol ether that DOM ingestes through his mouth and hands is very small, the effects are cumulative.

http://www.epa.gov/ttnatw01/hlthef/glycolet.html

DOM, I wouldn't worry too much about it, considering the very small amount you ingest, but you've got to admit that you occaisionally have problems with your spelling.

Paul

[Joseph U.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Joe
Buy a Motive bleeder, you'll use it. It is something you can do,will work great on your car and will be able to flush out the old BF. You will put the time and effort into the job, others may not.

The motive will bleed one section( circuit) at a time on dual systems. It holds enough clean BF to flush the circuit no problem. Use a clear tube that fits over the bleeder screw and long enough to reach into a clear qt bottle. Place some clean BF in the Qt bottle so the hose is submerged in it.
Install the bleeder on the MC and pump it up to 10-12 PSI watch the gauge a few minutes to see if it drops, if so you have a leak somewhere. If not then go to the farthest caliper and open the bleeder screw and watch for dirty fluid in the line. I go from caliper to caliper in the circuit and bleed them. Once you get clear fluid out from both calipers you're done with that circuit.

The biggest PITA with this job is putting the car on jack stands. I hate that the most.

Gary,
Which motive system did you buy? Do you need a special adaptor for the 67 corvette?
thanks,
Joe

[Joseph U.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Gary,
Which Motive system did you buy?
Did you need a special adapter for the 67 corvette?
Thanks,
Joe

[Domenic T.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Joe, tasting brake fluid and anti freeze is a bad idea. The taste test was accepted a long time ago before we knew about the long term neurological effects of ingestion. Even though the amount of glycol ether that DOM ingestes through his mouth and hands is very small, the effects are cumulative.

http://www.epa.gov/ttnatw01/hlthef/glycolet.html

DOM, I wouldn't worry too much about it, considering the very small amount you ingest, but you've got to admit that you occaisionally have problems with your spelling.

Paul

Paul your day may come to I tipe wit one fingur and it is a bitdg. you hav to get the idea acrox.
By the way, I won a spelling bee in 4th grade but had a hard time getting out of high school but ended up flying this guy & his wife all over town with a few others in the last 30 years.

[John H.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Did you need a special adapter for the 67 corvette?
Thanks,
Joe

Nope. Just buy the #0105 bleeder kit, and the #1105 adapter comes with it. Forget the chains and wing nuts that come with it to clamp the adapter to the master cylinder; I use a 6" length of square aluminum tubing and a 6" C-clamp to seal it - works great (they even put it on their website).

They also have handy vented plastic bottles to use while you bleed each corner; takes about ten minutes max to bleed Corvette disc brakes.

[Joseph U.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Thanks John,
that picture is worth 1,000 words.
will order today.
thank you all for the help - should have all the parts this week and will do the job in two weeks when I can get a day or two off.
Car is already up on blocks so I am ready to go.
thanks again for the help.

Joe

[Michael W.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

DOM, I wouldn't worry too much about it, considering the very small amount you ingest, but you've got to admit that you occaisionally (sic) have problems with your spelling.

Paul

Paul your day may come to I tipe wit one fingur and it is a bitdg. you hav to get the idea acrox.

Ya, give the guy a brake. Uhhh, break.

[John H.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Please excuse the dumb question, as I have not worked with this device. I have been bleeding brakes the tried and true way for years and from what I have read, it seems like this product is a real time saver. My question is , it looks like a cover is secured to the top of the MC and the system is pressurized with fluid. After the the system is bleed, and the pressure is released, what keeps the remaining fluid from spilling all over everything when the cover is removed?

[John H.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Please excuse the dumb question, as I have not worked with this device. I have been bleeding brakes the tried and true way for years and from what I have read, it seems like this product is a real time saver. My question is , it looks like a cover is secured to the top of the MC and the system is pressurized with fluid. After the the system is bleed, and the pressure is released, what keeps the remaining fluid from spilling all over everything when the cover is removed?

John -

You only pump it up to around 10 psi, and when you're done, you bleed off the pressure by loosening the tank cap, then remove the clamp and hold a rag under the adapter while you clear it from the car.

When I get around to it, I'm going to add two tubes (with top-mounted shutoff valves, one at each fluid entry hole in the adapter) that protrude about 3/8" below the adapter surface; that will allow me to open the two valves after de-pressurizing the tank and draw off the top 3/8" of fluid in the reservoirs with vacuum before lifting the adapter off the master cylinder.

[Joseph U.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

I just received the brake calipers from Lonestar - and the cotter pins are on the outside while on the brakes that are on the car they are inside - I am sure that functionally it makes no difference - but what is correct. The AIM is really no help here. there is a picture (page 261) in Noland's book that would suggest that the cotter pin should be on the outside. Does anyone know?
Thanks,
Joe

[Joseph U.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

I just received the brake calipers from Lonestar - and the cotter pins are on the outside while on the brakes that are on the car they are inside - I am sure that functionally it makes no difference - but what is correct. The AIM is really no help here. there is a picture (page 261) in Noland's book that would suggest that the cotter pin should be on the outside. Does anyone know?
Thanks,
Joe

I am sorry - the picture in Noland's bood would suggest that the cotter pins are on the INSIDE not the OUTSIDE.
Thanks for any help.
Might as well do it only once.
Joe