I am in the process (past 12 years or so) of restoring a 57 and am now in the process of mounting the trunk hinge assemblies. I think that they used to be riveted at the top to the fibreglass. I did this but it cracked the glass. Could use some help here. Thanks.
C1 trunk hinge attachment to body
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Re: C1 trunk hinge attachment to body
i had to replace the aluminum rivets on our black 57 last year before showing it. my son-in-law is in the air force and his job is replacing panels on aircraft. he brought home an air operated rivet peener and a backing dolly. we were able to peen the rivets without any fiberglass damage. the secret was a stout dolly(i think he said it was composed of a rare earth metal(can't remeber which element) but i can attest to its density being way in excess of my snap-on body dollys. good luck,mike- Top
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Re: C1 trunk hinge attachment to body
Brian
I just reinstaled the hinges on my 59. There was a fiberglass shim between the hinge and the drip rail on my car . this may be the reason you cracked the glass.There should not have been a gap between the fiberglass and the hinge. You also may have moved the drip rail to the point that it won't fit the trunk lid.
Stephen Barrett (21558)- Top
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Re: C1 trunk hinge attachment to body
Brian,
If you are building the car for judging this won't work, but.
I took some aluminum rivits and threaded them and used them to install the hinges on a 57 I did a while back.
Nobody ever noticed them.- Top
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Re: C1 trunk hinge attachment to body
I bought a cheap pneumatic riveting tool set at Harbor Freight and have done a lot of rivets through the glass on my 1960 and no cracks. You only use 20 psi on the compressor and the aluminium rivets set nice. As mike said you need a good solid backing dolly.Last edited by Donald H.; December 16, 2010, 07:11 PM.Don Harris
Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)- Top
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Re: C1 trunk hinge attachment to body
Bruce
My 59 had little hand mad fiberglass shims between the drip rail and the hinge when I took it apart. This car had never been apart so it came from the factor that way, and I put it back that way. It's also only my opinion but I think this clearance was necessary to get the hinge in place.If you've ever taken one of these things out you will question the wisdom of your decision when you try to reinstall it.
Stephen Barrett (21558)- Top
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Re: C1 trunk hinge attachment to body
Thanks for the replies. Yes i am sorry i ever removed them. I dont remember the shims but i am going to start over and make something. But the drip rail is curved and the rivet is flat so..... it seems it is a problem anyway. This is going to be a messy repair to make it right.- Top
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Re: C1 trunk hinge attachment to body
Good Morning
Brian
If I were you I would drill out the rivits you have installed, so that you release the pressure on the drip rail. Install the screws in the bottem of the hinge box that secure them to the floor pan.Sit the trunk lid in place and check for deformation at the drip rail truck lid intersection.If trunk lid has nice consistant curvature, try making some shims that fit between box and drip rail. When you rivit this back together there should be no movement,or compresion of the body panel between the deck lid and trunk lid.I used the round rivits from Paragon on my 59.I don't know if these are correct for a 57.This job is one of those that isn't rocket science,but just takes some time .The time is well spent if everything fits properly before paint. One more added note. Make sure there is no seperation on the deck lid or trunk between the inner and outer panel before you start fitting things together.Many times the glue between the inner and outer has let go on these panels.
Good Luck
Stephen Barrett (21558)- Top
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Re: C1 trunk hinge attachment to body
Brian
Feel free to contact me with any further questions
Stephen Barrett (21558)- Top
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Re: C1 trunk hinge attachment to body
I am at this point in my project and am having issues with the rivits.
I have the air hammer attachment that has the cupped end for the shape of the head on the rivits.
But, do I put this punch on the head of the rivit?
My body man seems to think we should hold a dolly on the rounded head and use the air hammer on the bottom end to round it over.
Pop rivets are looking pretty good right about now!
Any help would be appreciated.
dlh- Top
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Re: C1 trunk hinge attachment to body
You put the dolly on the rounded head of the rivit and use the tool to form the straight end.
I sort of cheated on one of my cars. I got aluminum rivits and threaded them and used nuts on the end which was hard to see. Worked fine and the car was never judged.- Top
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Re: C1 trunk hinge attachment to body
Bruce
Don't tell all your secrets you never know who is reading these posts.
I 'll be checking that out next time I catch the trunk open in your 57.
Stephen Barrett
59,66,71,73- Top
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Re: C1 trunk hinge attachment to body
Interesting discovery in the ST-12 Servicing Guide on this subject.
Under Body 1-23 "Installation" of the Hinge assembly.
3. Upper end of hinge may be secured to body panel by use of rivets OR FILLISTER HEAD SCREWS, LOCKWASHERS AND NUTS.
Has anyone used these screws instead of rivets.
Sure would be easier!
dlhAttached Files- Top
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