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Don't know who sells what since I reused all my originals, but I have a few thoughts. Unless your headlight switch is beyond hope, use your original and have it redone. I used Corvette Specialties and had no problems. If you have to buy a replacement, ask to make sure it doesn't have MEXICO stamped on it.
Headlight dimmer switches like yours were used on all sorts of cars and originals are on eBay all the time. I'd get an original NOS or clean and buff yours unless it doesn't work at all. Only the button shows on the floorboard and the part in the engine compartment is blacked out.
A replacement cigarette lighter housing probably is fine since not much is seen, but, if yours isn't holding the lighter in, try using a small screwdriver and pulling out the tangs inside that tend to get pushed down over the years. You should also use some fine sandpaper to remove any corrosion.
1- On my headlight switch, the main problem is that the interior lights dimmer function has just a few very very small areas where the interior lights will turn on.
2- On my floor dimmer, sometimes it works fine between high and low beam, however, about 50% of the time, there is a position where the lights go out completely (Hi, low, off).
3- I already did what you mentioned about bending the lighter tangs inside, however, it was quite rusted inside, and one of the tangs broke off completely so it barely holds the lighter.
For your headlight switch, try cleaning the rheostat with a liquid cleaner. If that doesn't work you can sand the rheostat wire with fine sandpaper to remove the corrosion. And I have seen instances where corrosion has gotten under the rivet head that joins the rheostat wire to the contact on the far side of the block. Heating the rivet head with a soldering iron while flowing liquid solder flux and fresh solder on it will usually restore contact.
For your other 2 items, it sounds like replacement is your only answer. -Dan-
headlight switch: The cleaning method suggested worked for me. Of course, once I get the switch in a position where the interior lights work, I don't move the switch anymore. The switch is mostly hidden behind the dash. If you are not having your car judged, what do you care if it's a repro?
headlight dimmer switch: These are on EBay all the time for not a lot of money. I took mine out, and cleaned it off. Then, while the switch was upside down, I squirted some WD-40 in the cap. I held it upside down so it wouldn't run out. Then, after some collected in the upside down cap, I flipped it over so that the WD-40 ran down into the switch body. Cleaned it up again, and painted the switch with looks-like-cadmium-plated-paint. Because only the top of the switch (what I called the cap) shows through the carpet, it looks pretty good. There is a noticeable difference in appearance between originals and the repros. The cap has a "teat" which is different.
cigarette lighter: The receptacle can be obtained anywhere. You need a Corvette one, though, because that receptacle has the cut outs for the light. BTW, if you have the original element, it's worth a fortune. There's one on EBay now for $194 (#310027072469).
Yes I do have the original lighter element. In fact the complete unit is original. Just the inside of the housing is corroded and one of the tangs that hold the lighter broke.
Tony, just a word of caution on your headlight switch if you are planning on taking it apart. The detent mechanism is a spring, a steel rod through the spring, and 2 small button like cups. If you remove the 3 screws to take it apart, do so inside a box, as the detent stuff will go flying. In fact there are a total of 8 springs in the assembly, and they all have a mind of their own. It can be somewhat of a challenge to put it back together. You need about 4 hands, but it can be done. -Dan-
62 Correct headlight, high/low beam switch, lighter housing
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