Help Re-installing Original Carburetor

[Ron N.]

The Carb will be going on the original Base 327/300 (metal intake). Below are items I want to get some help with:
-Is the correct baffle metal (SS) and can I find a correct replacement?
-Is a correct gasket available?
-Are washers used on the hold down studs or just bolts?
-Should I use any type gasket sealer on the baffle and / or gasket?

Any other gotchers I should know about?

Thanks.
Ron

[Timothy B.]

Re: Help Re-installing Original Carburetor

Ron,

If it's a base 67 the gasket is on the manifold first and available. The stainless shield next and I believe there is a NOS shield on ebay now. This shield is also available in the aftermarket. I would not use any sealer on this sandwich.

Also when you install the carburetor don't overtighten the nuts. Original did not use any washers but I used some on my 67 so I did not damage the carburetor base.

[Dennis S.]

Re: Help Re-installing Original Carburetor

I would not use any sealer on this sandwich.

Why not? I was told to use a thin coating of anti-seize, so I did 5 years ago and it worked fine. No leaks that I was ever aware of. I took the carb off last year when having the engine rebuilt and everything came apart great. Wiped clean the metal plate, base of the carb, intake manifold, used a new gasket and put everything back together. Works fine again.

[Edward J.]

Re: Help Re-installing Original Carburetor

Ron, Fel Pro does make a replacement gasket and I believe the heat sheild also, You can use washers if you like its will help to keep from chewing up the aluminum carb. air horn and base, but for judging reasons you should remove the washers.

[Joe L.]

Re: Help Re-installing Original Carburetor

Why not? I was told to use a thin coating of anti-seize, so I did 5 years ago and it worked fine. No leaks that I was ever aware of. I took the carb off last year when having the engine rebuilt and everything came apart great. Wiped clean the metal plate, base of the carb, intake manifold, used a new gasket and put everything back together. Works fine again.

Dennis-----


No sealer was used on the original installation and none is necessary. If you use it I don't think it would hurt anything but it's not needed, assuming everything is right.

[Joe L.]

Re: Help Re-installing Original Carburetor

The Carb will be going on the original Base 327/300 (metal intake). Below are items I want to get some help with:
-Is the correct baffle metal (SS) and can I find a correct replacement?
-Is a correct gasket available?
-Are washers used on the hold down studs or just bolts?
-Should I use any type gasket sealer on the baffle and / or gasket?

Any other gotchers I should know about?

Thanks.
Ron

Ron------


Dr. Rebuild offers excellent reproductions of the gasket and stainless steel baffle.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND disabling the heat cross-over SLOT in the manifold. This can be done by plugging the holes in either end of the slot using drive-in soft plugs (like miniature freeze plugs and available at good auto parts stores) or, with the manifold off the engine, drilling and tapping the holes for NPT pipe plugs with internal square or hex head drive.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Help Re-installing Original Carburetor

Ron,

Picture of the plugged hot slot.

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?t=71175

[Michael G.]

Re: Help Re-installing Original Carburetor

Ok guys, help me here. Why do the heat cross over holes need to be plugged?

[Timothy B.]

Re: Help Re-installing Original Carburetor

Michael,

The hot slot allows exhaust to reach and heat the carburetor base. The purpose is to keep the throttle blades from icing during warm up on days where high humidty and temps in the 30-50* range. (Throttle blades just open like warm up and low speed driving).

After the intake manifold gets warm there is no need for the hot slot. I am told "in the day" some people plugged the hole in the hot summer and up-plugged in the winter.

I used my car both ways and I can report a HUGE difference in carburetor/gasoline temperature with the slot plugged. With this new gasoline and lower boil off point I can report very normal operation with my 67 300hp. Don't get me wrong, that float bowl still gets plenty hot after a drive but no problems..

Also a good idea to target idle timing in the 27-28* range, as this will lower engine temperature as well. Best case is to keep the fuel as cool as possible above the throttle plate and good and hot below in the plenum to aid in vaporization. Remember it's the gas vapor that ignites in combustion not liquid so heat is very important..

Sorry for the long...

[Ron N.]

Re: Help Re-installing Original Carburetor

Thanks to all for your responses and the information. I've used LIC but will also check out the sources recommended for repo gasket and shield.

I believe I'm go to go. Thanks again.

Ron