Short block storage

[Joe R.]

I've had the short block of my L-72's engine in "storage" since about August 2008. Most of that time wrapped in plastic. I've seen on here that a sheet is a better idea, I'll do that instead. For the last month or so it has been in the air conditioning. I live in the heart of the rust belt. At our chapter judging meet last weekend I asked one of the more experienced members how he would store a short block. He said put "Cosmoline" around the top and bottom of the pistons where they meet the cylinder walls. Then turn it over by hand with a socket wrench. Does this sound like good advice? I read a little about Cosmoline online, it sounds like a real chore to clean up. How often should the engine be turned over?

Thanks in advance,
Joe

[Jack H.]

Re: Short block storage

I don't think the issue is any different than what GM faces when they build, inventory and sell crate motors... I haven't seen one yet with a 'use before' date on it. Plus, what's the difference between storing an engine and letting a fully assembled car sit idle in storage for a long time?

The key threats are minor surface rust and 'invasion'. Plug/cover the major air entry points (exhaust ports, intake manifold to carb, Etc.) and you should minimize air circulation as well as thwart pest entry...

Heck, one of our members rebuilt his small block and let it sit on an engine stand in the shop for +8 years while he was doing the other restoration tasks on a time available basis. When he went to install the engine, he 'tested' it by turning it over by hand to circulate oil prior to the engine's installation.

Hum, it wouldn't BUDGE at one point in rotation! So, a tear down proceeded. Guess what? Yep, mice had nested in both the intake plenum as well as certain cylinders they could creep into via the exhaust ports!

[Joe R.]

Re: Short block storage

Jack,

Thanks for the reply. Those pesky little mice! Is a short block any different storage wise than a long block?

Joe

[Paul J.]

Re: Short block storage

If it's in air conditioning all that you need to do is keep the dust off it. You can leave it in plastic if you wish.

If it's not in air conditioning then put good old motor oil on all unpainted surfaces. You can use WD 40 (as it was designed for this purpose) but it's a little too thin and should be recoated occaisionally. Take it out of the plastic and wrap it in something that breaths. As long as it does'nt get wet, the most you'll ever see on a short block will be surface rust, which my above methods will prevent.

Long blocks are no different, but it's much more difficult to coat all of the bare surfaces.

One other thing that we try to do is to keep the temperature above dew point. By doing that you prevent condensation.

Paul

[Joe R.]

Re: Short block storage

All,

Thanks for the helpful advice. Unfortunately, I waited too long to ask questions. See my neighboring thread on rusty bores:

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?t=85068&uid=5141

So, I think I'll post my lesson learned. Don't store it as a short block if at all possible. Store it as a long block, with heads and intake installed. Plug all holes to prevent air and / or pest entry.

I would like to ask a question too. On eBay I saw an engine with holes plugged with store bought plugs and plates. Does anyone know where to get these? Here is a picture of the engine:



Joe

[Paul J.]

Re: Short block storage

Joe you can still get light suface rust inside a long block, and big temperature variations will cause condensation even if it's sealed up. As I said before, you want to keep it above the dew point temperature.

I don't know why you'd want to use premade plugs when tape will do, but if so an intake lift plate will work for the intake hole. Just put an old carburator gasket under it. I don't use these but I saw many of them last weekend for $8.00 each.

Paul

[Joe R.]

Re: Short block storage

Joe you can still get light suface rust inside a long block, and big temperature variations will cause condensation even if it's sealed up. As I said before, you want to keep it above the dew point temperature.

I don't know why you'd want to use premade plugs when tape will do, but if so an intake lift plate will work for the intake hole. Just put an old carburator gasket under it. I don't use these but I saw many of them last weekend for $8.00 each.

Paul

Paul,

Well now that I have the garage heated and air conditioned, I shouldn't have to worry about temperature fluctuations and condensation.

I do have a lift plate on the intake. Why do I need a carb gasket?

Where were you last weekend? A swap meet or something?

Thanks for your help.
Joe

[Clem Z.]

Re: Short block storage

here is what i used for engine storage. http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...www.google.com

[Clem Z.]

Re: Short block storage

All,

Thanks for the helpful advice. Unfortunately, I waited too long to ask questions. See my neighboring thread on rusty bores:

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?t=85068&uid=5141

So, I think I'll post my lesson learned. Don't store it as a short block if at all possible. Store it as a long block, with heads and intake installed. Plug all holes to prevent air and / or pest entry.

I would like to ask a question too. On eBay I saw an engine with holes plugged with store bought plugs and plates. Does anyone know where to get these? Here is a picture of the engine:



Joe

http://pitstopusa.com/i-5060399-jaz-products-bb-chevy-block-off-kit-bb-chevy-w-4150-holley-carb.html

[Bill M.]

Re: Short block storage

Here were Mercury Marine's (I bet a boat engine manufacturer knows a lot about storing engines) instructions for storing ZR-1 engines that were built in 1993 and installed in 1994 and 1995 cars:

[Joe R.]

Re: Short block storage

http://pitstopusa.com/i-5060399-jaz-...lley-carb.html

Clem,

Thanks for sharing. That's just what I was looking for!

Joe

[Joe R.]

Re: Short block storage

Here were Mercury Marine's (I bet a boat engine manufacturer knows a lot about storing engines) instructions for storing ZR-1 engines that were built in 1993 and installed in 1994 and 1995 cars:

Bill,

Yep, back to what Paul said. It looks like I did everything I could wrong. It's no wonder I wound up with a rusty block. Oh well, I learned some things here. Hopefully others can learn from my mistakes. I know, where's the fun in that?!

Joe

[Stephen R.]

Re: Short block storage

I store a long block wrapped in two layers of plastic in my basement. I bought a couple of boxes of that silica gel desiccant and keep that in with the block. This is the gel that goes from blue to pink when it gets saturated. Once every few months I would open the wrapping, take out the gel, dry it in the oven and then re-wrap the engine. Last few times the gel had hardly changed color. So I'm assuming it must be fairly dry inside the bag. I live outside of Philly.

[Paul J.]

Re: Short block storage

Paul,

Well now that I have the garage heated and air conditioned, I shouldn't have to worry about temperature fluctuations and condensation.

I do have a lift plate on the intake. Why do I need a carb gasket?

Where were you last weekend? A swap meet or something?

Thanks for your help.
Joe

I had just suggested the carb gasket to act as a seal. You don't need any of this in a heated garage. It goes back to just keeping dirt out. I think you've corrected your problem.

I saw tons of lift plates at the Auto Fair in Charlotte. It's a good event, but it takes more than one day to see it all. I was there on Friday and it was packed. A lot more vendors than last year, it looks like the economy might be getting better.

Paul

[Joe R.]

Re: Short block storage

I had just suggested the carb gasket to act as a seal. You don't need any of this in a heated garage. It goes back to just keeping dirt out. I think you've corrected your problem.

I saw tons of lift plates at the Auto Fair in Charlotte. It's a good event, but it takes more than one day to see it all. I was there on Friday and it was packed. A lot more vendors than last year, it looks like the economy might be getting better.

Paul

Paul.

The carb gasket sounds like a good idea. The garage is heated, but my garage door is in bad shape, major leaks. Plus I'm still doing construction work inside. It'll be awhile before it's a totally engine friendly environment.

Joe