Paint Preservation Question

[Stuart F.]

They may end up sounding like a dumb question, but here goes;
My 63 Convertible was last painted in it's original color in 1976. I have since driven it only about 10k, and it has been garaged/cover protected most of the time (except at shows or cruise ins). My son and I were discussing how it would be possible to extend the good appearance of the car into the future, or at least for the 10 or 15 good years I have left to enjoy it. He wondered out loud if it would be possible to "clear coat" it, and I didn't have an answer. As it sits, there are only about two or three small hair line cracks appearing - one at the trailing edge of the rear deck and another at the corner of one of the hood screen indentations. I recently went over it with my usual annual cleaner/wax coat, and used polishing compound on a couple of blems, including some brake fluid dots on the cowl. All came out real nice.

Anyone have experience clear coating an older paint job?

Your thoughts please -

Stu Fox

[Dick W.]

Re: Paint Preservation Question

DO NOT attempt to clear coat paint that old. Plus you could get an unfavorable chemical reaction between the modern clear and the old lacquer and primer.

[Stuart F.]

Re: Paint Preservation Question

Thanks for your comment Dick. That's about what I surmised, but wasn't real certain. Guess I'll just try to miss all the bumps in the road and continue on my current maintenance program. For a "one repaint" original, it still looks pretty good and many knowledgeable people have told me so.

Stu Fox

[Rich P.]

Re: Paint Preservation Question

Stu,

Dick has it right DO NOT RECOAT!!. The new paint will expand and contract at a different rate than the old paint and crack almost immediatly, that is of course the paint on the car can even survive the exposure to the chemicals put on top.

I would guess that it was painted in lacquer, if so your best defence is to make sure it always hase a few good coats of wax on it. Not the chepo spray wax but good old wax. Lacquer is always drying from the time it is sprayed to the time it is stripped of 20 years or so later. As long as you keep a couple of good coats of wax on it will have a good layer of protection and also will be more flexible to take the bumps without cracking.

Rich

[Bill M.]

Re: Paint Preservation Question

One of the custom tricks in the old days was to spray clear lacquer over a factory lacquer. The paint crazed quickly.

[Stuart F.]

Re: Paint Preservation Question

You guys are right I know. It is lacquer - the last of the $750.00 paint jobs. In 76, that was a lot of money, and I had to wait for it for about a month even then. My experience with lacquer in the past taught me that you don't want it to be put on too thick. I had a 56 Chevy post show car and had to have it painted 4 times - twice down to bare metal. It was black - nuff said. The top surfaces of the hood, trunk and top would become cracked (don't know if that is called "crazing" or not), but it's the same reason I repainted the 63. For most of the time I was out of the country, it was in indoor storage. Then my buddy had to move it from his garage and it sat out in the elements for a number of months, but was occasionally driven. When I got it back, it was already showing the effects. Nowadays, many would leave it that way and call it "patina", but I thought then that the value would be re-established only with fresh paint. I'm glad I did it. Otherwise, I would have probably not taken as good of care of it, and may have even lost interest in it and sold it

Thanks again;

Stu Fox

[Steve B.]

Re: Paint Preservation Question

Stu,

Dick has it right DO NOT RECOAT!!. The new paint will expand and contract at a different rate than the old paint and crack almost immediatly, that is of course the paint on the car can even survive the exposure to the chemicals put on top.

I would guess that it was painted in lacquer, if so your best defence is to make sure it always hase a few good coats of wax on it. Not the chepo spray wax but good old wax. Lacquer is always drying from the time it is sprayed to the time it is stripped of 20 years or so later. As long as you keep a couple of good coats of wax on it will have a good layer of protection and also will be more flexible to take the bumps without cracking.

Rich

Rich,
Just curious as to what brand of wax you recommend? Thanks

[Steven B.]

Re: Paint Preservation Question

Stu, $750!!! When I had my '57 shot in the summer of '65 it cost $125.00 plus---but I stripped it saving $25.00-$30.00. But then Polo White does not have metallic in it like Daytona Blue.

I asked a friend of mine, who had a shop and was also an Auburn-Cord-Duesy finish judge, what he would use. He also has a '54 Polo White he painted in the 70's. Jim advised me to use a good glaze since the car was stored indoors and covered most of the time. He recommended 3M and I have used it with good results. I usually put two very light coats on. He also said clear won't work over previously painted finish.

Good Luck!

Steve

[Stuart F.]

Re: Paint Preservation Question

Steve;

Thanks. I will look into that. I was sure others had delved into the subject, specially those with older restorations who have babied their cars as best they could while fighting off Mother Nature and Father Time, so to speak. With the cost of parts and restoration labor, it is worth the effort to preserve them the best we can.

Stu Fox

[Rich P.]

Re: Paint Preservation Question

Rich,
Just curious as to what brand of wax you recommend? Thanks

Steve,

it's not a brand I look for but 2 different things and I'll explain why. First I look for a carnuba wax second I like a very soft paste and this is the most important part. The reason I like a soft paste is because (and you should know this well because of your Black Car) a soft past wax takes the least amount of effort to apply and this means that you have to do the least amount of actual rubbing on the paint to apply. Lacquer is VERY soft and will get hairline scratches in it by rubbing it with a dry cloth (even a very soft dry cloth) so with the soft paste wax you have the least chance of scratching the paint surface.

I know that there are many different opinions on wax and I have used them all, including the fancy type you apply with your bare fingers. But beleive me if you use a soft paste carnuba wax with 3M's scratch free cloths it will be enjoyable hand waxing a black lacquer painted car instead of a chore.

Rich

[Dick W.]

Re: Paint Preservation Question

Steve,

it's not a brand I look for but 2 different things and I'll explain why. First I look for a carnuba wax second I like a very soft paste and this is the most important part. The reason I like a soft paste is because (and you should know this well because of your Black Car) a soft past wax takes the least amount of effort to apply and this means that you have to do the least amount of actual rubbing on the paint to apply. Lacquer is VERY soft and will get hairline scratches in it by rubbing it with a dry cloth (even a very soft dry cloth) so with the soft paste wax you have the least chance of scratching the paint surface.

I know that there are many different opinions on wax and I have used them all, including the fancy type you apply with your bare fingers. But beleive me if you use a soft paste carnuba wax with 3M's scratch free cloths it will be enjoyable hand waxing a black lacquer painted car instead of a chore.

Rich

To add to Rich's comments, you want a pure wax, one with out a polish or cleaner

[Dennis S.]

Re: Paint Preservation Question

Ever tried using a clay bar and lubricant (Clay Magic and Liquid Shine) before putting down the wax? Detailers use it all the time, I have used it on my original '69 lacquer and it prepares the surface beautifully. Gets rid of all the contaminants on the surface so you don't imbed them in the wax. Just a thought.

[Alan D.]

Re: Paint Preservation Question

Ah black! try some professional grade Turtle Wax in "Black" They make two flavors, one can be had a Walmart type stores, however the professional stuff you may need to get via a body shop.