Getting Stainless Steel Brakes

[Robert G.]

I guess after this summer I will have stainless steel inserts put in my brakes and switch to silicone brake fluid. Does anyone have a suggestion for who they think does the best job, turn around, door-to-door service? Any places to avoid?- you can PM me.
I've had yet another experience with another car where I do some brake work and the first time I take the car out, a brake line somewhere springs a leak due to all the rust on the line. Silicone should help preserve brake lines internally, correct?

[Jim T.]

Re: Getting Stainless Steel Brakes

Stainless Steel Brakes has a add in the NCRS Corvette Driveline and has been in this business for a lot of years.

DOT 5 silicone is not hydroscopic, DOT 3 and DOT 4 is. I have used DOT5 in my 1968 since JAN 1983 and in my 1970 since APR 89. It is amazing that silicone fluid stays clear throughout all these years enough that the bottom of the master cylinder cavities can be see through the fluid.

Your master cylinder will need to be rebuilt/cleaned of conventional brake fluid as well as the brake lines.

[Dick W.]

Re: Getting Stainless Steel Brakes

CSSB (Corvette Stainless Steel Brakes) and Lonestar are two reliable suppliers.

[Paul S.]

Re: Getting Stainless Steel Brakes

Personally, I'd stay away from silicon brake fluid. That stuff is very hydroscopic (absorbs moisture and its "wet" performance is not good) and will have to be changed frequently. Racers use it, but also change out the fluid before each race, for that reason.

I'd recommend ATE TYPE 200 (also use it on my Porsches) which is a gycol based DOT 4 brake fluid. Change it every two years and you will never have brake system corrosion. Find somewhere local that sells it--find an independent shop that services Porsches and they usually sell it. About $15 per liter--I know it sounds expensive but it's cheap compared to top shelf silicon brake fluid.

And if that's too much, then buy DOT 4 from your autoparts store and always use a fresh can. The single biggest thing you can do to avoid brake system corrosion is regular brake fluid flushing, which a lot of people never get into the habit of doing. I do it every 2 years in all my cars.

[Mike M.]

Re: Getting Stainless Steel Brakes

Personally, I'd stay away from silicon brake fluid. That stuff is very hydroscopic (absorbs moisture and its "wet" performance is not good) and will have to be changed frequently. Racers use it, but also change out the fluid before each race, for that reason.

I'd recommend ATE TYPE 200 (also use it on my Porsches) which is a gycol based DOT 4 brake fluid. Change it every two years and you will never have brake system corrosion. Find somewhere local that sells it--find an independent shop that services Porsches and they usually sell it. About $15 per liter--I know it sounds expensive but it's cheap compared to top shelf silicon brake fluid.

And if that's too much, then buy DOT 4 from your autoparts store and always use a fresh can. The single biggest thing you can do to avoid brake system corrosion is regular brake fluid flushing, which a lot of people never get into the habit of doing. I do it every 2 years in all my cars.

paul: silicone brake fluid is hydrophobic, not hydroscopic. hence it hates water and is one of its advantages . mike

[Gary R.]

Re: Getting Stainless Steel Brakes

I think a lot of the vendors are using Lone Star calipers. I have with all my cars without a problem to speak of.I have used SSBC as well but not in 25 years.

Some push the use of O-Rings and DOT 4 or 5 fluid. I can't say I have ever used either over the past 30+ years of driving,building vettes. Never had the need.

I use lip seal calipers,plain old DOT3 BF and drive the car. Use a Motive bleeder,it is well worth the $60 or so. If you store the car over several months then bleed the brakes when you take it out of storage.

The important thing with these brake systems is to get the bearing endplay in the 0015-002 range and the rotor runout under 003". Do that along with the Motive and organic pads and you'll have a great system as intended. These cars got a bad rep for brakes over the years mostly because mechanic and owners didn't understand them and did things to make them worse.

Save the slotted and drilled rotors, metallic pads, etc for the magazine articles and catalogs.

[Dick W.]

Re: Getting Stainless Steel Brakes

paul: silicone brake fluid is hydrophobic, not hydroscopic. hence it hates water and is one of its advantages . mike

At one time silicone was recommended for fleet use by several fleet maintenance organizations. However, they found since silicone causes another problem. You will end up with pockets of moisture in the lines. That can cause a couple of problems, one is pocket corrosion in the lines and two, under heavy braking the moisture can turn to steam which is not very condusive to good braking.

Stay with a quality mineral based fluid and change it every couple of years

[Terry M.]

Re: Getting Stainless Steel Brakes

I guess after this summer I will have stainless steel inserts put in my brakes and switch to silicone brake fluid. Does anyone have a suggestion for who they think does the best job, turn around, door-to-door service? Any places to avoid?- you can PM me.
I've had yet another experience with another car where I do some brake work and the first time I take the car out, a brake line somewhere springs a leak due to all the rust on the line. Silicone should help preserve brake lines internally, correct?

I have had DOT5 (silicone) brake fluid in my 1970 for almost 30 years with no issues. I flushed it once about ten years ago just for ****s and grins, but it really didn't need it. The key is to thoroughly rid the system of the mineral based DOT3 or 4 that was in it. Flush the lines with alcohol and rebuild the master and calipers or wheel cylinders.

There has been no leaks, no sign of moisture, and a firm brake pedal all this time. I am a believer. When filling the system one needs to carefully pour the DOT5 into the master cylinder to avoid air bubbles. Think you are trying to pour a beer (Beast for #14) with no head, and you will have the technique down pat. If your Corvette has anti-lock brakes do not use DOT5 due to its propensity to entrain air. If you track your Corvette, don't waste your money on DOT5. Use a good quality DOT4 and flush with fresh fluid before every track day.

My 2008, which only sees street use, has GM DOT4 fluid now that I have flushed it, but any good DOT4 would be better than the DOT3 factory fill.

[Thomas A.]

Re: Getting Stainless Steel Brakes

I also recommend silicone brake fluid - have had it in my '66 for at least 25 years when I upgrade to SS brakes . . . no issues and would not use anything else in my car's system!!!

[Terry M.]

Re: Getting Stainless Steel Brakes

I also recommend silicone brake fluid - have had it in my '66 for at least 25 years when I upgrade to SS brakes . . . no issues and would not use anything else in my car's system!!!

And I forgot to add: In addition to #14's comment that DOT5 will not absorb moisture, and thus not degrade in performance, it will NOT eat your paint. Some may find the latter attribute of the most value.

[Robert G.]

Re: Getting Stainless Steel Brakes

Thanks for the many suggestions guys, I will have to do some thinking. I have several cars, not all Corvettes, and one of them hasn't been on the road in 15 years after a major amount of brake line work due to rust, so some of my cars sit for very long periods.
What I don't like about the conventional fluid is that every piece of bare metal that it touches turns to rust very quickly. I was thinking I'd try silicone on one car and see how it goes.
Doing regular oil, coolant, and brake fluid changes on several cars that almost never get driven can get to be a chore.

[Paul S.]

Re: Getting Stainless Steel Brakes

paul: silicone brake fluid is hydrophobic, not hydroscopic. hence it hates water and is one of its advantages . mike

My understanding is that it is--See for example, the discussion over at Duntov motorsports technical articles and that is also what I've been told from many SCCA and PCA Club racers.

Edit: Now I'm reading conflicting information, but silicon it doesn't absorb nor repel moisture. Not sure at all why racers change the fluid so often nor why Duntov meantions the frequent changes either.

As far as gycol "eating" paint--all I can tell you is my Motive Power Bleeder sprang a leak and sprayed the entire front end of my 911 with ATE Type 200 fluid. I rinsed the car with a nearby water hose and no paint damage. Moreover, my calipers are painted and I know brake fluid has gotten dripped on them and it hasn't affected the paint. I remember many years ago brake fluid was very destructive, but I cannot say that about the fluid I've been using (ATE Type 200) over the past 6 years.

You need to be careful with wiping up spills but it's not like it is some form of instant paint remover.

I am not personally terrified of Gycol brake fluid, at least the ATE Type 200. And I'm less confident that I could purge the entire brake system of its existing gycol fluid, as I've never done that before. So for me, I'm sticking with what I know.