Horn contact intermittent

[Chris E.]

I'd like to improve how consistent the horn is. When I push on the edges of the horn button, it doesn't always work.

I took the button off, and there are three pieces underneath. I'm wondering if I can just bend those slightly to fix the issue.

Thoughts?

[William C.]

Re: Horn contact intermittent

The three pieces underneath are actually a switch and your problem "usually" is slight oxidation on the contact areas of the switch. The unit is held together by nylon rivits, and as I racall, they have a pin in them that can be released to disassemble the parts. A little cleaning of the contact surfaces and reassembly should give you that "all around" switch action as original.

[Mike M.]

Re: Horn contact intermittent

i don't dis-assemble the switch. i simple glass bead the heck out of it then apply silicone dia-electric grease.this provides 360 degrees of contact the PV judges are checking for.mike

[William C.]

Re: Horn contact intermittent

Just like a Zit doc "Dermabrasion"

[Chris E.]

Re: Horn contact intermittent

The three pieces underneath are actually a switch and your problem "usually" is slight oxidation on the contact areas of the switch. The unit is held together by nylon rivits, and as I racall, they have a pin in them that can be released to disassemble the parts. A little cleaning of the contact surfaces and reassembly should give you that "all around" switch action as original.

Thanks Bill. How does the switch work? Do those three fins just stay in place and the horn button comes down to touch them? Or should the fins move a bit as well to make the contact?

Just trying to figure out how to best "rehab" the switch. I'm not real excited to disassemble it 3 weeks before a regional.

[William C.]

Re: Horn contact intermittent

Actually, the fins hold the horn button and also act as a spring to keep the contacts open when the button is not depressed. If you take it apart (remove the three screws to remove from the steering hub and remove the plastic rivets) you will see the contact surfaces and easily be able to ID any corrosion. Clean, reassemble and reinstall. Essentially, the switch grounds the circuit, one of the reasons for the copper strap inside the rag joint assenbly lower on the steering column.

[Chris E.]

Re: Horn contact intermittent

Actually, the fins hold the horn button and also act as a spring to keep the contacts open when the button is not depressed. If you take it apart (remove the three screws to remove from the steering hub and remove the plastic rivets) you will see the contact surfaces and easily be able to ID any corrosion. Clean, reassemble and reinstall. Essentially, the switch grounds the circuit, one of the reasons for the copper strap inside the rag joint assenbly lower on the steering column.

You mention the rag joint. When I restored my rag joint, it had the original copper ground strap still in tact on the inside. However, the joint itself (the metal part) was rusty, so I painted it. Yup, I know, 1 point deduct, but would that have any affect on the grounding of the circuit? I did NOT paint the copper part, just the metal housing.

[Stephen L.]

Re: Horn contact intermittent

The ground circuit is horn button to steering wheel shaft to upper rag joint half thru copper tie to lower rag joint half to steering gearbox to frame. If you painted the shaft areas you have potentially interrupted the ground path. Your problem is more than likely corrosion in the horn button, a much easier fix than the cleaning of the coupling. If the horn works at some locations around the 360* of the button then the ground circuitry (less the button) is probably ok.
As said earlier, just pop out the nylon rivets and clean the contacts.....
Note: the three removable nylon rivets in the button photo. These are reuseable.

[Chris E.]

Re: Horn contact intermittent

Thanks Steve, I'll give that a try. Very helpful, especially the picture. Looks like an easy fix.