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Alan -- you are correct; I have the '64, '65, '66, and '67 K66 sheets, and the (black friction) tape [AKA hockey-stick tape to us Canadian old timers ] began in 1965, at least to being shown in the AIM. They call for a total of 12 inches per job, at 3 locations (4 inches per). 1) where the TI harness separates from the engine harness near the rad support on passenger side. 2) Nothing shown for small block C60 or regular engine harnesses, so have to take hints from the L78 drawing (UPC K66, Sht. 5). In the firewall area, distr. connector leads taped to engine harness (leaving 1-2" slack). And 3) "to tape excess ign bypass wire & connector bodies to engine wiring harness" [not sure I understand that last one].
Then in 1966, they show tape taking up slack on the coil + and - wires of the big blocks, and again at the driver side rad support (engine harness now on LH side). Nothing shown on firewall.
1967; same as '66, but now they move the tape for the + and - coil wires up to the engine harness with a fold-back to take up any slack (this applies to small blocks, per location of coil in the AIM drawing.
I do have a '64-5 installation sheet from M & H, and it goes through the steps in detail including where to tape over the stumps [after cut-out and discard] of the black/pink wire that goes from the harness trunk to the coil, and from the trunk to the outlet side of the firewall resistor. This is written as if you are adding K66 to an existing points car harness (which, in actuality is what they did at the factory, except for 396's, which had their own engine harness).
All in all, a real dog's breakfast for AIM tape locations. Need to depend on original cars, as you said. Don't see many offering pictures , and the TIM&JG's don't go into this detail.
the first picture is of an original 67 435 ignition harness. it had no trace of the pink wire being taped back.
Second picture is of a 65 L-79 W-A/C and K-66. It also has no sign of the wire being taped back to the harness.
I have found this to be very common and is why I remove that wire from the harness as was done on these 2. What I do is clip double end by the coil and test both ends to make sure which wire is which and then I pull the extra wire right out of the harness about a foot long piece.
I would like to see if there are any orginal harnesses with the wire taped back. I have only seen one or 2.
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