Antique Auto Battery and Transistorized Ignition?

[Larry T.]

I have been told that many people have had issues with the "Correct" Antique Auto battery with TI Ignitions. Specifically the reserve power required to get adequate voltage to the coil when starting the car. I ordered a battery from them today for my 1966 (DC-12 Delco w/ CCA of 585/780) but need to cancel the order if I may experience problems.

I like the idea of a correct looking battery, but like the idea of my car starting when I want it to even better!

Thanks.

[Jack H.]

Re: Antique Auto Battery and Transistorized Ignition?

I'm not aware of general problems with a reproduction tar top battery and factory original TI. I didn't have problems with my '65 396 when it had a tar top for judging...

Now, there have been reports of problem(s) in general with distributors modified with solid-state, drop-in, electronic ignition modules... They seem to come from several directions:

(1) The specific drop-in module used.

(2) The way its wired (with or without the ballast resistor on the module's power supply line).

(3) The current state of battery charge when initially cranking the engine.

Each solid-state ignition switch system needs a 'critical' supply power level for it to effectively start-up and fire. If that need isn't met (battery charge is simply too low from sitting, starter motor drawing too much current for the battery's current state of charge, ohmic contact resistances too high along the starter/battery path, ballast resistor being in-circuit and robbing too much electrical power, Etc.), it's possible for the electronic ignition module NOT to power up...

[Mike Z.]

Re: Antique Auto Battery and Transistorized Ignition?

Larry-the use of the tar top repop battery will not cause starting problems with the GM original board-guaranteed, at least no more than with a conventional ignition. However, many of the aftermarket modules do not use the 12v hot starting lead, which is part of the original wiring. So, as Jack mentioned, if you are using an aftermarket, there could be starting problems-In particular the ones manufactured/marketed by a company that the name starts with M and ends with H (no name calling on this board right). Oh, and Jack-TI never used a ballast resister, so if there is one on your system it is further reducing the voltage to the amplifier-the resistance step down on the GM TI system is through the harness (switched resistance wire)-additionally to the switched power, there is a non-resistance lead that feeds a full 12v during start only, then the amp switches to the resistance switched lead. Larry, if you need an original board, contact me.
Mike Zamora
#12455

[Larry T.]

Re: Antique Auto Battery and Transistorized Ignition?

Mike, I want to make sure I know what you mean when you ask about the original board as well as let you know about my current starting issue.

I currently have a 1115005 Pulse Amplifier with a replacement board, see the attached picture. I also have a correct 1960079 Magnetic Coil Pick up on the distributor. I am getting right at 1.1v out of it. I am only getting about 9.5 to 9.8v from the pink wire from the starter. I have load tested my battery from a full equalizing charge and it drops down below 10v pretty fast, so it seems I have no reserve power.

For now I am assuming the battery is the culprit in my starting problems. I heard somewhere that the replacement boards in the pulse amps like mine require .9v to work wheras the originals were at about .4 volts. I have been able to get the engine started, but it is getting harder very quickly. In fact, right now I can not get it started at all.

Any input is appreciated.

Larry

Larry-the use of the tar top repop battery will not cause starting problems with the GM original board-guaranteed, at least no more than with a conventional ignition. However, many of the aftermarket modules do not use the 12v hot starting lead, which is part of the original wiring. So, as Jack mentioned, if you are using an aftermarket, there could be starting problems-In particular the ones manufactured/marketed by a company that the name starts with M and ends with H (no name calling on this board right). Oh, and Jack-TI never used a ballast resister, so if there is one on your system it is further reducing the voltage to the amplifier-the resistance step down on the GM TI system is through the harness (switched resistance wire)-additionally to the switched power, there is a non-resistance lead that feeds a full 12v during start only, then the amp switches to the resistance switched lead. Larry, if you need an original board, contact me.
Mike Zamora
#12455

[Mike Z.]

Re: Antique Auto Battery and Transistorized Ignition?

Larry-from your pic, you have an M&H board-in my opinion the worst of the bunch. But, having said that, the battery (no matter what kind) must have 12 v. and a strong battery will usually show as much as 13v static, to properly start the motor and activate the ignition. The M&H is one of the ones, that if wired per their instructions, does not use the hot wire that goes to the starter-relies on switched power.
So, even though M&H is not my preferred board-your problem is the battery, based on the numbers you give. FYI: a long time ago, I decided to use the best Delco replacement battery I could find and take the standard hit, which I believe is only a couple of points. Make up the points somewhere else and sleep good at night knowing the thing is going to start the next time you turn that key. (At Park City, I used one of those original look alike covers you can buy for $25 bucks, cut out the molded caps & installed some original caps from the repop tar top that died and they thought is was a repop tar top, but under the cover was a new no maintenance high cranking Delco replacement-I think they gave credit for the effort).
Mike Zamora
#12455