Fuse block diagram 1962

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  • John F.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • March 24, 2008
    • 2389

    #31
    Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

    Anyone have a picture of the back of the fuse block? To take it out and look at the back, I would disconnect battery first, pull top right fuse, take out two hold down screws and turn it over. Not sure what I would be looking for, but reconnect battery and use test light to check for power back there?

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    • Dennis C.
      Very Frequent User
      • July 1, 2002
      • 881

      #32
      Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

      Originally posted by John Ftacek (48800)
      Anyone have a picture of the back of the fuse block? To take it out and look at the back, I would disconnect battery first, pull top right fuse, take out two hold down screws and turn it over. Not sure what I would be looking for, but reconnect battery and use test light to check for power back there?
      John,

      I replaced the main wiring harness on my '61 last weekend. The back of the fuse block is very simple. There are plates riveted to the fuse clips that distribute the power and a few wires. The reproduction fuse block uses tabs for the wires to connect to.

      If no one posts a picture, I can provide you one tomorrow night. I won't be home until then to take the photo. I believe the '61 is the same as the '62.

      Regards,

      Dennis

      Comment

      • Richard M.
        Super Moderator
        • September 1, 1988
        • 11243

        #33
        Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

        I'd guess you have a ground problem, but you say you have directionals working all around. That may be because the directionals are finding a floating ground through the tail light circuit back to ground.

        Just for giggles, run a separate wire from a good ground point on the frame, up and into the tail lights outer bulb housing(clean contact point) and see what happens.

        Courtesy light problem could be a bad headlight switch. Recall if you turn the knob ccw to 'click' position it'll turn them on.

        Rich
        p.s. I can get a photo of the back of fuseblock of a nos 58-62 main harness in the morning if needed also.
        Last edited by Richard M.; October 2, 2009, 10:55 PM.

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        • John F.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • March 24, 2008
          • 2389

          #34
          Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

          Light switch was new this past year. CCW & CW with the switch handle. Nothing!

          Comment

          • Ernest C.
            Very Frequent User
            • August 1, 1991
            • 115

            #35
            Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

            John, I had exactly the same problem after installing a new Lectric Limited wiring harness. I followed Bill Cluppers suggestions and still had no success. I then removed all the fuses and replaced with all new ones. After that everything worked.
            Ernie

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            • John F.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • March 24, 2008
              • 2389

              #36
              Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

              I found a culprit on the fuse block. Red wire on back of block was corroded and broke off. Cleaned off old terminal & installed a new connector. See photos below. I now have tail lights and brake lights, courtesy light, and instrument lights. When checking for power on the fuse block with a test light, there is still no power when I touch the bottom fuse (Instr/Lps). All other fuses light up.
              Attached Files

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              • Dennis C.
                Very Frequent User
                • July 1, 2002
                • 881

                #37
                Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

                Originally posted by John Ftacek (48800)
                I found a culprit on the fuse block. Red wire on back of block was corroded and broke off. Cleaned off old terminal & installed a new connector. See photos below. I now have tail lights and brake lights, courtesy light, and instrument lights. When checking for power on the fuse block with a test light, there is still no power when I touch the bottom fuse (Instr/Lps). All other fuses light up.
                John,

                Glad to hear you found part of the problem. You have some corrosion behind the fuse block that should be cleaned up. I would suggest removing one wire at a time and cleaning the connections. After you have cleaned them all, make sure the wires are on securely and apply a light coat of dielectric grease. This will help to keep out moisture.

                As for the bottom fuse, make sure all the terminals are clean, the key is in accessory position, the light switch is on and test for power again.

                Regards,

                Dennis

                Comment

                • Bob H.
                  Very Frequent User
                  • August 1, 2000
                  • 787

                  #38
                  Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

                  Hi John

                  Glad you found the brake light issue. hat you were describing just had to be ttwo different issues.

                  The bottom fuse would will have power on it unless the light switch is on. Power is fed from the light switch gray wire to the fuse and then to the dash lights. If there is no power to the fuse with the switch on then you need to back up to the switch itself and check the gray lead. If no power there then the switch is bad OR maybe the switch is wired wrong.

                  Comment

                  • Richard M.
                    Super Moderator
                    • September 1, 1988
                    • 11243

                    #39
                    Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

                    John, Glad you found it!!

                    Yes it looks like some corrosion on the "instr lps" rivets that connect the 2 gray wires for the fuse. That may be your problem.

                    One gray wire(outer I think) comes from the headlight switch which is the source for the lamps, through the fuse, then gray out via a junction in the harness to all of the instr lamps.

                    Put your testlight on this gray wire at the headlight switch to verify voltage, but.......also check that your headlight knob(rotation) isn't in the off position. It's controlling the internal rheostat to make the instr lamps bright to dim to off.

                    Rich

                    edit.....just noticed Bob talked about this too. That darn "More replies below the current depth" feature got me!
                    Last edited by Richard M.; October 4, 2009, 09:32 AM.

                    Comment

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