If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ You must be an NCRS member before you can post: click the Join NCRS link above to join. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. If you have trouble logging in you can clear your cookies here!
A good cleaning of the motor gearbox, possible gear replacement, and lubrication of the rotating bearing "balls" will more than likely solve the problem.
There is no electrical speed adjustment on these motors.
Stephen is correct, there is no adjustment for speed on the motors. It is expected that they will not be perfectly synchronized when opening and closing, just a second or two apart from a judging standpoint.
It is a straight forward removal, take apart, cleaning, rebuild and install process as there are not that many parts. The only difficult part as I recall is replacing the bronze bushing at the bottom where the armature rides. The old one is easy to remove, the new one, available from LIC, is tough to reinstall.
My 65 had the same problem. The passenger side motor was real slow. I found some very old and sticky grease. Once I cleaned them both and lubed them with white lithium grease they open and close real smooth. My drivers side is a little faster than the passenger side.
The removal, regrease and replacement was real straight forward. A couple hour project.
Seems a common theme - the headlight motors becoming a bit arthritic in their 'old age'. The above was my experience, too, on my '64. After a take-apart, good clean, re-lube, etc. both headlight assemblies are real speedsters now! ..
I'll post a couple of tips anyone planning to do this for the first time:
1. remove the bolt that attaches the motor to the bracket. Leave the bracket on the car. It gets in the way removing the motor.
2. wrap the motor in a rag to prevent harming the paint when pulling it out
3. twist the motor as you pull it through the gap between the hood and the front of the hood surround. Pull the top of the hood forward to give you another inch or so.
4. mark the slot on the motor before taking the head gear assembly apart. Install it the same way or 180 degrees off. This makes it a lot easier to slide it back on after cleaning and relubing.
This was the closest thread I could find,
Drooping head lamp.
After lubing both motors (on the car - no removal) for a LH that was running 10 - 15 seconds up slower than the right hand,
On the lube up it became faster that the RH and now that RH bucket has side to side slop as well as rotational slop so that if in the up position it could droop(rotate forward).
I don't see anything missing, but its not the easiest place to evaluate with mirrors.
Sounds like the headlite bucket assy needs some adjustment. The rotational stops determine the open and closed stop locations. These are located on the ends of the "wishbone" bracket on the rotating shaft. There is no electrical "stop" in this system. (The switches are only used to power the "LIGHTS" indicator.) The buckets go into a bind to stop the motor. This is what eventually destroys the gears in the motor. Your problem of "droop" could be caused by worn gears. Some times you can turn the gear 180 deg to work on "fresh" teeth as the gear is only used less the 180 deg. during a rotation.
The side to side movement is adjustable by collars on the shaft.
Comment