Headlight Assembly (uncle)

[Todd L.]

OK, I need help.
I am trying to remove my headlight assembly from a 74. I have removed the 4 springs, and the pivot bolt. I also removed the six bolts holding the pivot bearings in place. I can not seem to finagle the headlight cover enough to remove it. I eventually would like to remove the whole assembly. Any advice?

Todd

[Alan S.]

Re: Headlight Assembly (uncle)

Hi Todd,
I believe there are 2 cylindrical 'stops' on the pivot rods. These need to be loosened (set-screw) so the 'stops' can be slid toward the center so the whole headlight mechanism housing can be slipped out of the headlight mounting frame.
Hope this helps!!
Regards,
Alan

[Jeff W.]

Re: Headlight Assembly (uncle)

Todd, If you haven't got them out yet, call me at 804-387-9242 as I just completely rebuilt mine. Lets of fun!!
Jeff

[Todd L.]

Re: Headlight Assembly (uncle)

I have been at work the last two days due to the snow here in Denver, and I finish work tonight, I'll let you know what I find.

Todd

[Jeff W.]

Re: Headlight Assembly (uncle)

Todd, here is a picture to show what Alan said in his e-mail. Loosen the set screw and that allows you to move the unit side to side just enough to get one side out for removal. This would also be a good time to look at your header bar and sand, prime and paint it.
Jeff

[James W.]

Re: Headlight Assembly (uncle)

Todd, here is a picture to show what Alan said in his e-mail. Loosen the set screw and that allows you to move the unit side to side just enough to get one side out for removal. This would also be a good time to look at your header bar and sand, prime and paint it.
Jeff

Jeff

Great picture. What camera/lens are you using. I have trouble getting clear closeups, even using macro

Jim

[Jack H.]

Re: Headlight Assembly (uncle)

Some cameras have a 'smart' macro mode while others are quite dumb. By that I mean there's a limit to the focus resolution range most of the less expensive cameras have and macro mode 'taxes' the camera's dynamic abilities depending on what 'mode' you're shooting in (auto, shutter priority, aperature priority and zoom setting specifics).

Some of the lower cost cameras have a 'sweet spot' system that tells you when the camera is within its ability to converge the auto focus feature based on where you are in the zoom range, but most don't. My Nikon Coolpix cameras switch the zoom icon from green to grey when you zoom beyond the camera's auto focus resolution range in macro mode. This is a VERY handy feature that thwarts those out of focus macro shots!

You can tell if this is your problem by taking a shot or two with macro turned OFF and observing the length of time it takes for the auto focus feature to converge and the shutter to click. Now, switch to macro mode and try shooting a few closeups at various degrees of zoom.

Are there times when the auto focus takes 'forever' to converge and other places on the zoom scale where the autofocus action is fast/crisp? If so, that's telling you you camera's auto focus system has dynamic range limits with respect to zoom and the times the camera takes a LONG time to converge are where/when you've pushed the camera beyond its convergence range.

In this mode, it's the flip of a coin regarding how clear/fuzzy your picture will be! The rule of thumb for sucessfully operating cameras that do NOT give you confirmation of the auto focus system's ability to converge, is to test before you shoot.

By that I mean compose the shot and press the shutter button halfway down to see what it does in the auto focus mode. If it 'thrashes' (takes a long time and can't really converge), then reduce your degree of zoom, move the camera closer to the subject to compensate and try again. Iterate until you get the combination of zoom lock and distance that allows the autofocus to work without 'confusion'...

[Jeff W.]

Re: Headlight Assembly (uncle)

Jim, I bought the Canon Powershot A720IS because I did like the Macro feature. Here is another shot to show how well it does, that is if my hands are not shaking!!

[Todd L.]

Re: Headlight Assembly (uncle)

Well I finally have been able to remove the headlight housing from the left side. When I bought the car the plastic covers around the lights was missing. It is held in with 4 screws, two on the side, wich screw into clips and the two in the front that screw directly into the headlight housing at the top. Both of these screws have had the heads turned off, and when I was removing one of the adjuster screws (the plastic piece held on by two screws) I turned off one of the heads.
What is the best way to remove the broke screws, it looks like the metal is pot metal, does this make a difference?

Todd

[Todd L.]

Re: Headlight Assembly (uncle)

What is it called when two dissimilar metals are in contact? I think I have a perfect example. Enclosed are the pictures from my left bracket. I was a bear getting the bolts out, when I did get them out this is what I found.

[Terry M.]

Re: Headlight Assembly (uncle)

Galvanic Corrosion is the term you are looking for. Google it for a full explanation, but your pictures say a lot.

[Bob U.]

Re: Headlight Assembly (uncle)

I had same problems with 73 and 76. I ended up drilling out the broken screws and welding up the holes then drilling and re-tapping the holes. As for the bracket either replace them or cut out old hole area and weld in aluminum flat stock, then re-drill the bracket. From experience it isn't worth screwing around with trying to salvage the brackets.
Bob Unkel, 36121