Lectric Limited distributor conversion kit

[Tony S.]

I'm in the process of rebuilding the distributor for my '65 L79 car (standard distributor). I see in the Driveline that Lectric Limited sells a Breakerless electronic ignition conversion kit. I'd like to know if anyone has tried this kit. If so, does it seem to be a reliable system?

Thanks.
Tony

[Donald T.]

Re: Lectric Limited distributor conversion kit

Tony,

I have used it and it works fine. Easy install and only one wire, so it is very discrete. Can only be seen by lifting the window on the cap. I switched back to points for judging last year and never bothered reinstalling the Breakerless SE. Points work just fine and I'm not sure it's worth the hassle and expense of changing.

[John F.]

Re: Lectric Limited distributor conversion kit

I put a breakerless kit in my 62 this past year. No problems. It is so much easier by pulling the distributor, but don't forget to mark the #1 wire for re-installing.

[Mark W.]

Re: Lectric Limited distributor conversion kit

I've had the breakerless in my '66 L79 for 7 or 8 years now and have never had a problem with it.

[Rick S.]

Re: Lectric Limited distributor conversion kit

I installed a Petronix breakerless system on my 67 L-79 and it failed within less than 1 year. I installed a Lectric-Limited breakerless system 4 years ago and it is still going strong!

Rick

[Stuart F.]

Re: Lectric Limited distributor conversion kit

I've had Pertronix electronics in my 63 L-76 for 10 years now with no problems. I upgraded to their Pertronox II about 2 years ago which is also working fine. A lot depends on doing a proper installation with any kit. The Hall effects type are a bit easier to establish the air gap between the pickup (sensor) and breaker wheel. With the Pertronix, you have to establish a proper air gap (clearance) between the sensor and a magnetic disc by shimming the distributor drive gear and/or the disc mount under the rotor. Many people only shim at the rotor and have too much up and down play in their distributor shaft which can lead to premature failures. I guess they are afraid to knock out the roll pin to remove the drive gear and add shims. To me, that would make good sense to have limited up/down play even with points. When (if) the gear is removed for shimming, it is important to replace it so the dimple on the gear is in line with the position of the contact on the rotor. If put on 180 degrees off, you may have trouble timing the engine properly as the VAC may be up against the manifold before you get to your initial advance position. That's one of the things you have to learn through experience.

Stu Fox