283 Engine HB/Flywheel sequence

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Mark P.
    Very Frequent User
    • May 14, 2008
    • 934

    283 Engine HB/Flywheel sequence

    Just got my 1960 283 long block back from my rebuilder and it is in the engine stand:

    Is this the right sequence ?

    1. install harmonic balancer (HB) spacer
    2. install timing cover
    3. install Felpro speed sleeve on HB
    4. install HB
    5. install flywheel


    What is the best way to torque the flywheel on to prevent the crank from turning ? Is it usually installed while on a stand ?

    Do I have to worry about leaks between the HB and sleeve or HB and key way ? I was planning to use grease to install the sleeve on the HB which prevents using any sealer or locktite sleeve locking compound (green).

    Is Gaskacinch a good product to install the timing cover gasket ?

    My crank snout was drilled and tapped for a 7/16 20 x 2 1/4 Grade 5 Bolt so I will be using an HB installation tool.
  • Joe L.
    Beyond Control Poster
    • February 1, 1988
    • 43129

    #2
    Re: 283 Engine HB/Flywheel sequence

    Originally posted by Mark Pellowski (49021)
    Just got my 1960 283 long block back from my rebuilder and it is in the engine stand:

    Is this the right sequence ?

    1. install harmonic balancer (HB) spacer
    2. install timing cover
    3. install Felpro speed sleeve on HB
    4. install HB
    5. install flywheel


    What is the best way to torque the flywheel on to prevent the crank from turning ? Is it usually installed while on a stand ?

    Do I have to worry about leaks between the HB and sleeve or HB and key way ? I was planning to use grease to install the sleeve on the HB which prevents using any sealer or locktite sleeve locking compound (green).

    Is Gaskacinch a good product to install the timing cover gasket ?

    My crank snout was drilled and tapped for a 7/16 20 x 2 1/4 Grade 5 Bolt so I will be using an HB installation tool.
    Mark-----

    1) The sequence is correct. However, you don't need to use a repair sleeve unless the sealing surface on the balancer is worn. Most likely, it will be, though.

    2) It's not absolutely necessary to install the flywheel with the engine on the stand but I always do. If you do, you also have to install the bellhousing, of course.

    3) If you do use a repair sleeve on the balancer, always use sealer between the sleeve and the snout. I use green Loctite sleeve locking compound. It both locks the sleeve and seals the interface between the sleeve and snout. Always apply sealer like silicone RTV to the keyway slot in the balancer to ensure a seal at this common leakpath.

    4) You can prevent the crank from turning while torquing the flywheel bolts simply by having someone holding a breaker bar with socket on your crankshaft snout bolt while you are torquing the flywheel bolts. You can also use a special tool which is available for turning/holding crankshafts without a snout bolt.

    5) Gasacinch is ok to use on the timing cover gasket. Basically, Gasacinch is a neoprene solvent cement much like 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. I actually prefer to use silicone RTV (Ultra Copper or Ultra Black) on the timing cover gasket. Avoid over-applying and resultant "squeeze-out".

    6) Use a GRADE 8 bolt for the crankshaft snout, just like GM did on engines so-equipped.
    In Appreciation of John Hinckley

    Comment

    • Mark P.
      Very Frequent User
      • May 14, 2008
      • 934

      #3
      Re: 283 Engine HB/Flywheel sequence

      Joe - thank you very much.

      I'll get the Grade 8 bolt but why would CC sell the Grade 5 bolt for this specific application ?



      Do you ever need to heat the HB in boiling water if you have the threaded snout ?

      Regards,

      Mark

      Comment

      • Joe L.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • February 1, 1988
        • 43129

        #4
        Re: 283 Engine HB/Flywheel sequence

        Originally posted by Mark Pellowski (49021)
        Joe - thank you very much.

        I'll get the Grade 8 bolt but why would CC sell the Grade 5 bolt for this specific application ?

        http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000050e~Z5Z5Z5AANJN~ P9.30~~~~S2JY10RM6O12108113423a~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z500000 50x

        Do you ever need to heat the HB in boiling water if you have the threaded snout ?

        Regards,

        Mark
        Mark-----


        While the text indicates a grade 5 bolt, the picture shows the correct grade 8 bolt. In fact, based on its headmarking and configuration, I'd say it's the current GM bolt of the original part number, GM #3815933.

        There is no need for heating of the balancer to install it if the crank has a snout bolt. However, use grease on the interface AND BE ABSOLUTELY 100% POSITIVE THAT THERE ARE NO BURRS, "DINGS", OR SIMILAR ON THE CRANKSHAFT SNOUT OR BALANCER INTERFACE.

        Also, I highly recommend using a balancer installation tool which is of high quality and which includes a ball bearing type thrust bearing and not just washers.
        In Appreciation of John Hinckley

        Comment

        Working...
        Searching...Please wait.
        An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

        Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
        An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

        Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
        An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
        There are no results that meet this criteria.
        Search Result for "|||"