Can't Get Front Camber Set Right

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  • Mark A.
    Very Frequent User
    • February 1, 1996
    • 295

    Can't Get Front Camber Set Right

    I am getting my rolling chassis ready to set the body back on. I wanted to set the preliminary caster, camber and toe before setting the body on. I was able to set the left front camber at 0 degrees. The right front will not set. I have the nuts on the upper a-arms backed all the way to the end of the threads, and I am still at 1.5 degrees positive camber. In between the frame mounts where the control arm bolts go through measures 26.5 inches. I believe this is in tolerance with the specs. I changed to a different spindle, but have the same problem. The frame checks out square measuring diagonally. The dimensions are correct from center line to the 2 body mounts on the driver side that the service manual states. Any ideas? Thanks, Mark
  • Joseph K.
    Expired
    • August 27, 2008
    • 407

    #2
    Re: Can't Get Front Camber Set Right

    The service manual has a diagram of the frame and measurements. I would compare it with the diagram. Are you sure there is no frame damage? I had my frame checked by a auto body shop that used laser measurements. I had this done because there was allot of welding on the frame. Once you put the weight back on the care you will probably have to have it aligned again.

    Comment

    • Duke W.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • January 1, 1993
      • 15490

      #3
      Re: Can't Get Front Camber Set Right

      Unless you have the chassis set at the proper Z and D dimensions, you're wasting your time. If it's a rolling chassis the lack of weight from the body means the ride height is way too high. As the ride height increases, camber increases in the positive direction.

      Duke

      Comment

      • Mark A.
        Very Frequent User
        • February 1, 1996
        • 295

        #4
        Re: Can't Get Front Camber Set Right

        Are you saying that I may not have a problem? I was not aware that there is that much camber change with a difference in ride height. Mark

        Comment

        • Duke W.
          Beyond Control Poster
          • January 1, 1993
          • 15490

          #5
          Re: Can't Get Front Camber Set Right

          Yeah...

          The C2 has rather high suspension roll centers. This provides high roll stiffness from the springs, but yields considerable camber/track change through the range of jounce and rebound. This was a clever design feature and was okay with skinny bias ply tires of the day.

          Modern cars -especially those with wide, low profiles tires have much lower roll centers, which yield less camber/track change, but they need stiffer springs and big anti-roll bars for good roll control.

          Compare a C2 on a lift with the suspension drooping to a modern car on a lift and you get the idea.

          Duke
          Last edited by Duke W.; January 7, 2009, 01:17 AM.

          Comment

          • Mark A.
            Very Frequent User
            • February 1, 1996
            • 295

            #6
            Re: Can't Get Front Camber Set Right

            My car is a 69 which makes it a C-3. I assume your reference to the C-2 suspension would hold true for mine, since the design is basically the same since 63? Mark

            Comment

            • Duke W.
              Beyond Control Poster
              • January 1, 1993
              • 15490

              #7
              Re: Can't Get Front Camber Set Right

              The rear roll center was reduced a couple of inches in '68, but the C3 front roll center was unchanged from C3.

              This means the C3 rear suspension shows less positive camber at full rebound than a C2, but the front is the same.

              Duke

              Comment

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