What are the signs, if any, that let you know it's time to rebuild your trailing arms? I have a 1969 coupe that drives fine but, there is a faint squeak / chirping sound that is coming from the rear (I think). I can't tell if it's a brake issue or something else.
Trailing arm rebuild time?
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Re: Trailing arm rebuild time?
When you hear the chirp, apply the brakes ever so slightly. If it is a brake issue, the chirp will go away. If that does not stop it, try applying the park brake slightly. Sometimes the park brake shoes will lightly touch the parking brake drum. Usually other than being annoying the brake chirp is nothing to worry aboutDick Whittington- Top
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Re: Trailing arm rebuild time?
Dave,
Let's hope it's an easy fix like the brakes as Dick mentioned. I just finished the trailing arm job on my 72 and without a doubt it was the toughest job on the car! All I did was the removal and reinstallation. Our local chapter conducted a trailing arm rebuilding seminar using mine as an example. Everything on the rear of the car was rusted on after 36 years, in other words broken camber bolts, U bolts that had to be cut and drilled out. Along with cuts, scrapes and bruises. This is a task that I hope I never have to do again. One more thing, the T/A's looked fine while on the car, but after removing them they were completely rusted out on the inside where the spindle bolts on, and ended up in the trash. Lucky for me, a very generous chapter member had an extra set in "stock".
Good luck,
Kevin- Top
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Re: Trailing arm rebuild time?
Dave,
Let's hope it's an easy fix like the brakes as Dick mentioned. I just finished the trailing arm job on my 72 and without a doubt it was the toughest job on the car! All I did was the removal and reinstallation. Our local chapter conducted a trailing arm rebuilding seminar using mine as an example. Everything on the rear of the car was rusted on after 36 years, in other words broken camber bolts, U bolts that had to be cut and drilled out. Along with cuts, scrapes and bruises. This is a task that I hope I never have to do again. One more thing, the T/A's looked fine while on the car, but after removing them they were completely rusted out on the inside where the spindle bolts on, and ended up in the trash. Lucky for me, a very generous chapter member had an extra set in "stock".
Good luck,
Kevin
I hope that Tim no longer uses his acetylene cutting torch and jackhammer to remove the inner bearing race.
Actually, he's tops, and he enabled me to rebuild my own, a few years ago.
Surprisingly, the wheels haven't come off.....yet.
Actually, I set mine up using the tightest tolerances in the ranges specified in the Shop Manual. Having the right "stuff" really takes the sweat out of the job. Be sure to use Timken bearings. I custom-sized the bearing shims a few thou as needed, with emery cloth, to obtain desired clearances.
I used high-build epoxy primer to fill in all pitted/corroded surfaces, on top of zinc-dichromate, and underneath the semi-gloss black color coat.
Good luck............you're in good hands.
Joe
PS: Anybody from Del-Val going to Hackensack this Sunday, for All-American's Corvette show?
How about Raceway Park, on June 14th, for the "Stock Appearing Drags"?Last edited by Joe C.; June 2, 2008, 01:42 PM.- Top
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Re: Trailing arm rebuild time?
What are the signs, if any, that let you know it's time to rebuild your trailing arms? I have a 1969 coupe that drives fine but, there is a faint squeak / chirping sound that is coming from the rear (I think). I can't tell if it's a brake issue or something else.
- Top
Comment
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Re: Trailing arm rebuild time?
What are the signs, if any, that let you know it's time to rebuild your trailing arms? I have a 1969 coupe that drives fine but, there is a faint squeak / chirping sound that is coming from the rear (I think). I can't tell if it's a brake issue or something else.
Dave------
The easiest ROUGH check is to jack the car up in the rear with the parking brake OFF (BOTH FRONT WHEELS CHOCKED FRONT AND REAR). Then, grasp each rear wheel at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions. You should be able to "rock" the wheel VERY slightly (this "looseness" is caused by the normal bearing end play). If the wheel can be "rocked" more than just a very slight amount, the you DEFINITELY need a bearing job.
If the above check turns up ok, then rotate the wheel by hand and check for any roughness in rotation. It's best to use a jack under the bearing support to raise each wheel before you do this so that unusual u-joint angles don't fool you. If the wheel feels at all rough in rotation, you need a wheel bearing job.
If the car has never had a rear wheel bearing job, I can virtually guarantee you that you need one now. In that case, you almost don't even need to bother with the above checks.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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