Clean Garage Floor Prior to Paint?

[Gary C.]

Re: Clean Garage Floor Prior to Paint?

Larry, Sherwin Williams will mix any color you want in the real 2 part epoxy paint. I've spilled battery acid, brake fluid you name it I've done it and the only thing that stained was PVC pipe glue purple primer. Dropped engine blocks and other heavy things and all it did was scratch it a little. Stained my gameroom floor and it came out great. But it had to be sealed or it will wear the stain down. JMTCW. Regards, Gary....

[Kent K.]

Re: Clean Garage Floor Prior to Paint?

First, I agree with Gary Chestnut's article which was very well done. Personally, I used the Muratic acid etch method and allowed a week of drying time between the very through wash-rinse and application of 2-part epoxy. I use another product and wish I had used the same product as Gary due to odor which, BTW, only lasted a couple of days.

Why Paint? Has anyone tried those "overlayment" tile solutions that use no adhesive, just snap together?

In answer to Joe's alternative, epoxy floors are totally different from snap-together tiles. Epoxy floors are used in many industrial applications, power plants, large commercial establishments because of its stellar qualities for cleanliness and duribility. Also, epoxy is generally much cheaper than snap-lock floor tiles. But, you have to make yourself happy with whatever your choice.

Regards, Kent

PS - I might try to post some photos later but have to reduce their size.

[Larry S.]

Re: Clean Garage Floor Prior to Paint?

Didn't know that, Gary--I though all you could get was tan, gray, and...another shade of gray! I guess a lot of it is personal preference; since I have been known to be an occasional slob, I think stain hides dirt better. But, if the expoxy is as good as you say, it sounds like a good choice, too.

[Jim D.]

Re: Clean Garage Floor Prior to Paint?

Why Paint? Has anyone tried those "overlayment" tile solutions that use no adhesive, just snap together?

I have had "Race Deck" in one of my garages for 5 years. It's great stuff, doesn't stain and is not cold if you have to lay on it vs. the concrete floor.

[Peter J.]

Re: Clean Garage Floor Prior to Paint?

Bob,
I rented a floor grinder (about $50.00 for four hours) and it did a great job on my filthy and oil stained floor. I put U-coat-it down and have had no problems with lifting or peeling in over two years. This floor was a mess after cleaning so I went with the grinder.
Pete

[Gary C.]

Re: Clean Garage Floor Prior to Paint?

Larry, reason I chose something other than grey was that I wanted to make it easier to see dropped bolts & nuts on the floor. Sherwin Williams Armor Seal is ADA rated. Link to product sheet: http://www.sherlink.com/sher-link/Im...epoxy_8-22.pdf Meaning there's some traction when wet. It's not overly slick like some floor epoxies I tested. Recommend not to use the color chips or sand inbetween coats. It pretty, but it makes the surface rough and hard to sweep/clean up. Recommendation for Sherwin Williams products came from a fellow NCRS member who owns a commercial engineering/construction firm and that's what they put down in boiler rooms, power plants, etc. So, I figured it ought to be tough enough for me. There are lots of other real 2 party expoxies out there. Armour Seal gave me the best bang for the buck and a wide color range. JMTCW. Respectfully, Gary....

[Mike B.]

Re: Clean Garage Floor Prior to Paint?

Hello Bob,

My 1st time posting! I hope I'm not getting in on this conversation too late, but I've just finished my garage floor with two coats of silver gray epoxy paint made especially for this purpose. It's beautiful!

I went with a popular paint company's three part system found at that home improvement center that has those nice orange buckets. Here's what I did to prep my garage after painting the walls and cinderblock:

-Caulked all along the block with a high quality paintable caulk. No gaps anywhere inside the garage. Very important for the water and acid to drain out. You don't want moisture between the block and walls.

-Masked everything off in plastic prior to spraying water inside my garage! Keep those walls dry!

-Suited up with goggles, rubber gloves and rubber boots rated for high detergents and acids. Sprayed the floor down with a garden hose with spray nozzle. The directions specified this was adequate. Very important to keep floor wet during the cleaning/etching phase!

-Used a push-type stiff bristle bush and had hand bushes too to apply the detergent. Started at the low side of the floor (entrance) and worked my way into the garage. Any tough spots I used large scotch brite pads to scrub up oil spots. I was lucky not to have alot of oil spots, but if you do you might want to rent a floor scrubber. Kinda like a buffer, but it uses large circular scotch brite pads.

-Hosed out all the detergent as I worked and really hosed it down when I was done. This took a long time. That stuff finds it's way into any little crevis.

-Immediately begin the acid etching phase. Again beginning at the low end of the floor. Small areas at a time. Must keep the floor wet the entire time. I was glad the weather was cool/cold when I did the job since it made it easier to keep the floor wet and keep the vapors down. I wouldn't have wanted to do this job in the summer!

-Hose all acid out. Water will eventually neutralize any remaining nasty stuff. Let floor dry for about a week. Must keep ventilated for quicker drying times.

-FINALLY comes the fun part! Cut the edges of the floor with a brush and roller and then complete the floor's first coat. Let completely dry then apply second coat (more if specified). Even after the specified drying time, you may want to park your car on thick cardboard pieces (no colors or markings). I pulled my '65 onto these and went on a business trip. No tire marks or stuck cardboard when I got back. She looks great in there! Just like a showcase.

I won't lie to you. This was not an easy job. It was a real workout physically. But now that it's done, I wouldn't hesitate to do it again if I add on an addition. Oh, and by the way, I went with silver gray (the lightest color they offered) to make it easier to find those dropped nuts and washers. The speckled floors look neat, but I'd hate to try to find a tiny screw on one of them.

Hope this helps you.
Mike Browning '65/'66 lugnut

[Edward S.]

Re: Clean Garage Floor Prior to Paint?

I am getting to old to want to go through that much work - I measured off what I needed in terms of footage. Went to a home improvement center and bought indoor/outdoor carpeting. It's very cheap, comes in a selection of colors and one of the best parts is that it's rubber backed and helps to block out cold air coming up from a cement floor. It's great when your working on your back. If it gets too dirty I buy another run put it over the original and I have double the softness and insulation power.

[Mike M.]

Re: Clean Garage Floor Prior to Paint?

All good points.
One of the suppliers instructions as a dryness test was to tape a 2 ft. square of plastic to the floor for 24 hrs. If there is condensation or a spot under the plastic, it is still too wet to apply the epoxy.
The epoxy has a rather dull appearance, so, I applied a polyurethane gloss coat over the epoxy like the car dealers apply in their customer service drive through areas. It looks like a million bucks and the reflection helps brighten the area as well.
This is the third floor I have completed in this manner. All look like new after 5-7 years with high traffic and after harsh, salty and sandy winter driving residue, just hose off and the new luster is restored.
H. a. N. D.

[Wes S.]

Re: Clean Garage Floor Prior to Paint?

Excellent advice from everyone on the cleaning, one can also use phosphoric acid (the purple stuff sold at big bot store) remember concrete is an alkaline and the acid will be naturally netraulized, its just impotant to flush with lots of water. One thing no body meationed was fiberglass, alot of concrete for floors is mixed with fiberglass for strength. You may not have it, but you better check. Check after the acid wash in the corners with a light. The fiberglass will look like fine hairs coming out of the concrete. You should burn these of with a torch. If you don't they will ball up in the paint and make the surface rough. I found this when I epoxy coated my basement floor. Luckily it I did the painting in a back corner first and made this discovery. Since then I always burn the fiberglass off. You don't need much heat just a quick flash and the fibers are gone. I've used on of those weed torches sold at northern that connects to a 20 lb propane tank.
Wes

[Kent K.]

Re: Clean Garage Floor Prior to Paint?

Most of the questions regarding epoxy floors are answere in this thread, however, if one desires to do more in-depth research, there are numerous web sites which provide excellent information. I tried to stick with the sites dealing with industrial, scientific and large component assembly facilities because I wanted a floor to outlast the shop/garage.

My photos are too big to include here. See the archives for them.

[Curtis M.]

Re: Clean Garage Floor Prior to Paint?

Bob,

I painted my floor last spring with the U Coat It product. Prior to that it had been exposed for 10 years to grease, oil, phosphoric acid, acetone, lacquer thinner, etc. There were numerous spots that did not come clean after scrapping, degreasing and etching with muratic acid. I chose their beige color, which I believe is their lightest color other than white, and it covered all the grease and oil spots and other stains completely. In about a year now, I have had no bleed through nor has it lifted. The other side of the garage which my wife uses for her daily driver has held up just as well so far. I'm not sure what product you were considering using, but if water is penetrating those spots as opposed to beading on top of them, they probably won't be a problem.