getting ready to reattach front frame brackets for bumpers, front crossmember, etc and am unclear generally when to use antiseize vs threadlocker. As an example, for these bolts would one use antiseize or threadlocker? or both? or neither? I mean...I don't want these parts to come apart on their own (threadlocker) but I want to avoid them seizing up or galling (antiseize). As an aside the bolts look ok so am going to re use those but replace all lock washers.
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late Oct 1969 L46 350/350, M21 4spd, 3.70 posi convertible --As with life, restoration is a journey, not a destination. Though restored cars provide both journeys AND destinations! -
Re: antiseize vs threadlocker
When to Use Threadlocking Adhesives
- Small maintenance needs: Unlike anti-seize lubricants, threadlocking adhesives are packaged in small bottles. This is intended to help you make repairs and preventive maintenance tasks to nuts and bolts or small places that may be difficult to reach within equipment. With a range of viscosities available, this makes for an easy, clean dispense from the bottle.
- Vibrational repairs: As a liquid solution, threadlocking adhesives fill gaps in between threads and use cohesive strength to unify the nut and bolt in place. While both threadlocking and anti-seize lubricants protect against corrosion, threadlocking adhesives specifically are designed to provide vibrational resistance as well, making it the right option if vibration is one of your top concerns.
- Fast-moving applications: Designed for applications including mechanical assembly, machine engineering, gear manufacturing, engines and powertrains, threadlocking adhesives prevent a nut and bolt from loosening while being used in a fast-moving application that also may vibrate. Anti-seize lubricants are not as suitable, because the high solids content can cause parts to jam.
When to Use Anti-Seize Lubricants
- Medium to large maintenance needs:Corrosion protection: If you are more concerned about corrosion, anti-seize lubricants will provide long-term protection on metal parts with their protective coatings compared to threadlocking adhesives. They can be applied to larger areas that need extensive corrosion protection, whereas threadlocking adhesives are intended to protect smaller areas that may get corroded over time. Anti-seize lubricants are also available in various formulations for general-purpose, stainless steel, fresh or saltwater resistance and nuclear grades. This ensures there will be a solution for specialized applications that may require corrosion protection.
- High-temperature applications:
thx,
Mark -
Re: antiseize vs threadlocker
Cant use both together that defeats/cancels the purpose of each.
My general rule of thumb is; if I anticipate going back in for future service say for a wheel hub or spark plug I use nuclear grade gray anti-seize.
On my daily drivers exposed to north east slush n salt everything goes back together with anti-seize.
Use copper high temp on all exhaust parts. A little goes a long way.
For drive-line components say flywheels, u-joint saddle bolts, yokes, shift fork fasteners et al, always use blue removable locker. Clean the fastener threads and mating threads then run a light coating along the threaded length. Don't over do it. The blue will release easier then red. A little heat may be needed, they come right out. Use light weight pink on small fasteners.
Only use red when you never plan to take it apart...though it will with a fire wrench.
Anything going into austenitic or martensitic Stainless, Inconel 6 or 7 series and all series of aluminum gets a dab of gray anti-seize...think spark plugs and exhaust manifold fasteners into aluminum heads, dis-similar metals and or high heat areas etc. Steel to steel varies, I'm my garage it will most likely get a dab of anti-seize. Always follow the manufactures recommendations.
Bumper, trans cross members etc just properly torque no need for locker though it wont hurt anything as long as its the blue.
Remember when using petroleum lubricants on a dry torque spec back off 10% of the final torque spec so you don't over torque.
Never recheck torque on a thread locked fastener. It breaks the locker adhesion.
I use 30W oil on lug nuts for all vehicles and apply anti-seize to the hub to wheel mating surface...on my daily drivers where aluminum and steel mate.
I have my torque wrenches periodically NIST calibrated.
A crappy wrench will be off 10-12% or more. Ive been at this so long I use a torque wrench to see how close I am. My right arm should have a NIST sticker on it. Experience plays in here as I can feel the point of final torque or yield. That means I'm old lol.Comment
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Re: antiseize vs threadlocker
I use neither on bumpersComment
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Re: antiseize vs threadlocker
Thanks all for some great input. As it turns out ...at some point in the probably distant future these brace/brackets will come of because I am doing a frame on restoration and tore it down that far...and hopefully maybe in my lifetime the body will come off for painting and the frame restored. Took the brackets off so I could have them blasted and powdercoated.
The point that the factory used neither is a thought not lost on me! So using nothing is better than using the opposite of what one should...or sometimes anything at all for that matter.
David Morland....where/how does one get torque wrenches recalibrated?? I believe mine are in need.
Thanks,
Keith***************
late Oct 1969 L46 350/350, M21 4spd, 3.70 posi convertible --As with life, restoration is a journey, not a destination. Though restored cars provide both journeys AND destinations!Comment
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Re: antiseize vs threadlocker
Keith,
What brand is the wrench?
The tool truck dealers offer that service for their brands, Snap On, Mac, Matco etc.
Look up a calibration laboratory in your area. They are most everywhere.
You are not worried about annual ISO cert just a good NIST cert that you can have done every once in a while.
If your doing engine drive line and chassis work or other torque sensitive work its piece of mine. If you're just torquing bumpers don't get to excited about exact torque. In this case I use the universal German torque spec...ready for it...Goot-n-tight.
If its a high end wrench its worth it.
If its old nobody will want to touch it (that has been my experience). My Snap On's were 40+ years old they no longer supported the internal parts. Soooo I just spent almost a cool K on a 3/8" and 1/2" drive click wrenches from my local Snap On dealer.
I almost went digital for a few hundred dollars more. I'm an analog guy.
Hey I don't have a wife or kids at home. I can get away with it.
TransCat
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Re: antiseize vs threadlocker
Awesome info ..thanks. I have two...both Craftsman...1/2" goes to 150 ft-lb..3/8"to 75. Thing is they both sat for 20+ years and I think one or both was NOT set to zero. I could replace them with new Craftsman for $50 to $70 each so recalib probably not the way to go for me. I am a pretty accomplished driveway mechanic with a pretty good feel for things but my arm is not NIST certified. I am down to the frame with engine and tranny still in but everything else is out... so it all is about to start being put back. drivetrain incl diff, trailing arms, crossmembers, A arms, suspension, radiator..etc. And I am mostly French and Irish with no German but have a good feel for Goot-n-Tight. That said am an engineer and you know how we are. At my age and for my purposes....I will just roll with what I have and call it good enough with whatever variance my current wrenches exhibit.***************
late Oct 1969 L46 350/350, M21 4spd, 3.70 posi convertible --As with life, restoration is a journey, not a destination. Though restored cars provide both journeys AND destinations!Comment
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Re: antiseize vs threadlocker
From one older engineer to another...yes I know exactly how "we" are...lol.
At least you know your wrenches are USA made unlike EVERYTHING today which is offshore (mostly) junk or a crap shoot at best.
Those new Craftsman's may be OK who knows. Its not the same Craftsmen we grew up with.
Have those Craftsman's bronzed.Comment
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