Re: C2 Original Trailering Arm Toe Shim Question
Duke, see in-line responses above...
Can you provide more detail on the plant front toe adjustment at the end of the assembly line.
Was someone in the driver's seat holding the steering wheel straight? < No. After the driver drove the car on top of the pit (at break-neck speed I might add) he jumped out and went back to the car next in line after placing a steering wheel lock of some sort - presumably while it was clocked at the 12 O'clock position. Of course, being down in the pit, I couldn't see many examples of this, but I do recall being incredibly alert at the end of the line where drive off took place so I wouldn't get hit. Cars were occasionally wrecked inside the plant in that area and also driving out to the parking yard.
I assume you set each side separately, < Yes so that, assuming someone was holding the steering wheel straight, the steering wheel would be straight driving down a straight road with no camber. < There were two sets of double rollers which when activated rotated the front tires (it was 40+ years ago and I can't remember at what speed - but, it was not 60 mph). I don't remember anything about camber adjustments...but I don't think (or remember ??) them being done in the toe-in pit
Also, can you describe what equipment was used to make the actual toe measurements. Mirrors? Light beams? Lasers? Was anything attached to the wheels?< Yes - rollers touched and spun the tires - no lasers - no light beams - no mirrors - I don't even think there were even electronic sensors. The guy would do the driver's side first (10 seconds at the most); I'd have to get out of his way quickly; and then he did the passenger side. This was at Ford Assembly Plants and most production at that time was between 50 to 60 cars per hour IIRC. It seemed to me the large dial indicators (one on the right side and another on the left) were mechanically connected to the inward/outward movement of the fixture assembly holding the rollers - thus transferring the measurements mechanically to the dial indicator. Noland has a picture of the St. Louis Toe-in pit somewhere (can't find it right now) and the concept was the same as what I saw.
The reason I ask is I have been doing my own alignments for over 40 years because even though modern field alignment equipment is excellent, the operators rarely understood the involved geometry and always wanted to set everything at their "book" recommendations, not my requirements, which were for more aggressive driving, like maximum negative camber and positive caster, equal on both sides, within the range of adjustment.
Even though front toe should be the easiest thing to do it was always a pain. Since I could only measure total front toe I had to keep the steering wheel straight, but it always cocked off center as I adjusted the tie rods. Having a helper hold the wheel straight helped, but it was usually still slightly cocked off center on the test drive, so I had to go back down under and tweak (maybe 1/8 turn) one or both tie rods to straighten the wheel while keeping total toe and my required range, and sometimes it took two or even three tries to get it right because I am fanatic about having the steering wheel straight when driving in a straight line. I can only imagine what a pain that must have been. My mechanic agreed to use his alignment equipment (lasers) when I had my Trailing arms rebuilt by Bair's 20+ years ago; BUT he said he would not do the shims ! I wish I had seen this post (including Leif and Jim's responses) back then because I was using original style - all non-slotted shims. So, I set the 1st try at what I had when I tore it apart - went to his shop; he gave me the measurements; I'd come back and do the math; re-shim (what PITA that is with the body on the car !); went back the 2nd time - it was almost there, but not perfect; so I did it again and on the 3rd try we got it. He completed the front end alignment and I took it out on the highway. On a nice long stretch, I kept it at 60 mph and left go of the steering wheel and it went straight as an arrow ! It was a hell of a lot of work, but I was really pleased. It handles great on our twisty western PA. roads, too...you can power into curves - feel the G's and not be worried at all unless the cops are near by.
At some point I realized that at least on my cars if the tie rod length the same on both tie rods as close as I could measure, the steering wheel would be almost straight, but it still usually took at least one tweak for me to be satisfied.
Duke
Was someone in the driver's seat holding the steering wheel straight? < No. After the driver drove the car on top of the pit (at break-neck speed I might add) he jumped out and went back to the car next in line after placing a steering wheel lock of some sort - presumably while it was clocked at the 12 O'clock position. Of course, being down in the pit, I couldn't see many examples of this, but I do recall being incredibly alert at the end of the line where drive off took place so I wouldn't get hit. Cars were occasionally wrecked inside the plant in that area and also driving out to the parking yard.
I assume you set each side separately, < Yes so that, assuming someone was holding the steering wheel straight, the steering wheel would be straight driving down a straight road with no camber. < There were two sets of double rollers which when activated rotated the front tires (it was 40+ years ago and I can't remember at what speed - but, it was not 60 mph). I don't remember anything about camber adjustments...but I don't think (or remember ??) them being done in the toe-in pit
Also, can you describe what equipment was used to make the actual toe measurements. Mirrors? Light beams? Lasers? Was anything attached to the wheels?< Yes - rollers touched and spun the tires - no lasers - no light beams - no mirrors - I don't even think there were even electronic sensors. The guy would do the driver's side first (10 seconds at the most); I'd have to get out of his way quickly; and then he did the passenger side. This was at Ford Assembly Plants and most production at that time was between 50 to 60 cars per hour IIRC. It seemed to me the large dial indicators (one on the right side and another on the left) were mechanically connected to the inward/outward movement of the fixture assembly holding the rollers - thus transferring the measurements mechanically to the dial indicator. Noland has a picture of the St. Louis Toe-in pit somewhere (can't find it right now) and the concept was the same as what I saw.
The reason I ask is I have been doing my own alignments for over 40 years because even though modern field alignment equipment is excellent, the operators rarely understood the involved geometry and always wanted to set everything at their "book" recommendations, not my requirements, which were for more aggressive driving, like maximum negative camber and positive caster, equal on both sides, within the range of adjustment.
Even though front toe should be the easiest thing to do it was always a pain. Since I could only measure total front toe I had to keep the steering wheel straight, but it always cocked off center as I adjusted the tie rods. Having a helper hold the wheel straight helped, but it was usually still slightly cocked off center on the test drive, so I had to go back down under and tweak (maybe 1/8 turn) one or both tie rods to straighten the wheel while keeping total toe and my required range, and sometimes it took two or even three tries to get it right because I am fanatic about having the steering wheel straight when driving in a straight line. I can only imagine what a pain that must have been. My mechanic agreed to use his alignment equipment (lasers) when I had my Trailing arms rebuilt by Bair's 20+ years ago; BUT he said he would not do the shims ! I wish I had seen this post (including Leif and Jim's responses) back then because I was using original style - all non-slotted shims. So, I set the 1st try at what I had when I tore it apart - went to his shop; he gave me the measurements; I'd come back and do the math; re-shim (what PITA that is with the body on the car !); went back the 2nd time - it was almost there, but not perfect; so I did it again and on the 3rd try we got it. He completed the front end alignment and I took it out on the highway. On a nice long stretch, I kept it at 60 mph and left go of the steering wheel and it went straight as an arrow ! It was a hell of a lot of work, but I was really pleased. It handles great on our twisty western PA. roads, too...you can power into curves - feel the G's and not be worried at all unless the cops are near by.
At some point I realized that at least on my cars if the tie rod length the same on both tie rods as close as I could measure, the steering wheel would be almost straight, but it still usually took at least one tweak for me to be satisfied.
Duke
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