Roll Test ?

[Jim S.]

Now that I have my 66 convertible up and running, I was reviewing the AIM an came across the section about body mounts. It says to torque to 25 foot lbs. after a roll test.

Was this just for checking rattles and such, or was it also a way to prevent too much stress on a flexible fiberglass body and by association a paint job and body gaps, etc.etc. ?

If it is the latter, how and what was a roll test and how would one do a roll test at home? Even if it's not required, is it a good idea? I don't want anything to happen to my baby now!

Jim

[Duke W.]

Re: Roll Test ?

What's the section and sheet number you are referring to?

Duke

[Gary B.]

IMG_7304.jpg

[Mark F.]

Re: Roll Test ?

Now that I have my 66 convertible up and running, I was reviewing the AIM an came across the section about body mounts. It says to torque to 25 foot lbs. after a roll test. Was this just for checking rattles and such, or was it also a way to prevent too much stress on a flexible fiberglass body and by association a paint job and body gaps, etc.etc. ? If it is the latter, how and what was a roll test and how would one do a roll test at home? Even if it's not required, is it a good idea? I don't want anything to happen to my baby now!
Jim

Jim,

Per John Hinckley's presentations and articles, here is the essence of what a roll test was:

...The roll-test machine had a set of rollers on a common axle for the rear wheels, which also drove a set of rollers on a common axle for the front wheels; one side of the rollers was smooth, and the other side was eccentric, to simulate a bumpy road surface.

The driver accelerated the car up through the gears to road speed on the smooth side of the rollers, checking for proper throttle response, clutch and shift linkage adjustment (and Powerglide upshift and downshift points), checked for any unusual behavior or noises, and compared the speedometer reading against the master speedometer suspended above the machine.

He also exercised the brakes, horn, turn signals, bright/dim headlights, wipers, washers, radio, and "burnished" the parking brake shoes by holding the parking brake on for 30 seconds at 30 mph. Then he shifted the car over to the eccentric side of the rollers at 40-50 mph and noted any unusual squeaks or rattles while on the "rough road" surface.

When the roll-test sequence was complete, he braked the rollers down to a stop, drove out of the machine, noted any issues on the car's inspection ticket, and proceeded to the Toe-In Machine...and then Water Test.

Having witnessed factory roll tests and been down in factory Toe-in pits, there is no way I know to replicate that process at "home". The equipment is huge and there are serious potential safety issues as well.

I think I have seen somewhere on this TDB that you lower the car with all the weight of the body engine, etc. on the chassis and suspension - maybe jounce it up and down a bit to be sure it is "seated" and retorque. Then take it for a drive and retorque after that as well.

Hope this helps...others will probably chime in, too...

[Jim S.]

Re: Roll Test ?

What's the section and sheet number you are referring to?

Duke

as Gary showed :1966 AIM pages 115-116-117.G-1-2-3

[Jim S.]

Re: Roll Test ?

Thanks Mark,

That info helps a lot .

I was concerned that it was more for body flex, and worried that it might crack the paint or mess up my door gaps by not having done one. I know for sure I didn't lower the body onto the frame with all the interior already installed! What I don't remember is when in the resto process, I finally did torque down all the mounts.