'72 working garage

[Tom L.]

Just getting finished with a new garage for my '72. Going to be a "Working" garage with a lift and all the other goodies. Not a display area. I'd like to get some ideas on how to protect the concrete. My wife reached out to an epoxy guy and the cost was $3600 for a qulity, professionally done floor. 600' BTW. More than I'd like to spend. Honestly, just looking for a sealer of some type that would prevent oil stains and preserve the concrete color.

Oh, If anyone mentions Epoxy-Coat (or something like it) I have experience with that in my other garage. No peel up and easy to maintain but in a working garage it just doesn't cut it. Drop a wrench and it chips. All comments are welcome, Thanks!

[Thomas H.]

Re: '72 working garage

Tom, when I moved into my house 30+ years ago I fixed up the 1 1/2 car garage to be a working garage. I was renting another garage for car storage and this would be where I worked on them. I was on a very thin shoe string budget and found what was simply labeled as "Garage Floor Paint" on sale. Bought several gallons in grey and proceeded to paint the floor with it.

I have to say it held up very well to all sorts of abuse, hot tires, tools, chemicals, etc.... It didn't like brake kleen though which would make it peel. No biggie, I'd just wire brush the spot and touch it up with the left over paint.

I'm sure that whatever was used in that paint that provided the durability has been black listed as not good for us and is no longer available.

A few years back I built a new 4 car garage and had the floor done using polyurea materials. Definitely not cheap but hard as a rock!

Maybe a trip to a local paint store (not a home center) and discuss your application with a knowledgeable person - they may have a couple cans of grey "garage floor paint" left from the old days..........

I'm sure many here will have a more specific suggestion. You can also cruise through the Garage Journal website - lots of floor paint discussions have been hashed out there

Tom

[Joe R.]

Re: '72 working garage

Hi Tom,

Tom H. Has given you some good advice. I agree that epoxy is best left to the museum type garages. After researching the Garage Journal’s flooring section, I came to the conclusion that porcelain tile is the best for a working garage. It’s been a while, but I think it will even stand up to welding.

Joe

[Dan D.]

Re: '72 working garage

I have always wondered what coating the big box stores -and others use. Its a clear sealer, slight gloss to it and apparently wears like iron and is not slippery, abet it just sees 'foot traffic'. But their concrete is as smooth as glass and never seems to wear and rarely cracks.

The smooth concrete has to be however the masons do it, which is also a mystery to me.

Anybody familiar with this?

Dan

[Mark F.]

Re: '72 working garage

I have always wondered what coating the big box stores -and others use. Its a clear sealer, slight gloss to it and apparently wears like iron and is not slippery, abet it just sees 'foot traffic'. But their concrete is as smooth as glass and never seems to wear and rarely cracks. The smooth concrete has to be however the masons do it, which is also a mystery to me. Anybody familiar with this? Dan

Dan,

Based on what I read in the link below, I'm thinkin' what you are describing is Polished Concrete...
not cheap, but apparently there are a lot of advantages if you believe what they say in this link...

https://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/polishing/

[Dan D.]

Re: '72 working garage

That's probably it Mark, but they must apply some kind of clear finish on it too. That could vary between jobs, and the question is - how does it hold up on a working garage floor? Don't know that, but I have always admired these floors.

Dan

[Owen L.]

Re: '72 working garage

I know this isn't as elegant as a direct to concrete surface finish, but I'm considering just getting 12' wide vinyl sheet flooring. I know it will scuff and get marked by jack stands and such, but it's easy to clean, inexpensive, and easily changed out. Ultimate floor for me would be an end-grain wood butcher block style. They are very hard wearing (think industrial revolution factories) with the impact resistance and resilience for dropped items.

You could also go with the industrial "linoleum" 12" tile look that has the flecks in it. Very hard wearing stuff.

On polished concrete, my current garage concrete has a very smooth surface that gets slippery when wet. Here is a section of the linked page Mark posted above:

Here are some tips for improving the slip-resistance of polished concrete floors in these environments:

• Keep polished floors free of oil, grease and standing water. Follow a routine maintenance program, and clean spills and stains from the floor as soon as possible.
• Apply an anti-slip conditioner. These products contain special additives designed to improve traction and make wet surfaces safer. They must be reapplied periodically, but they can simply be mopped on during routine cleaning.
• Apply a sealer coat to polished concrete that contains an anti-slip grit additive. These products are simply mixed into the sealer before applying to increase traction without taking away from the appearance of the polished surface.
• Supplement with rubber mats or area rugs in high-traffic entryways.

[Tom L.]

Re: '72 working garage

Thanks for the replies. For ME paint probably won't work. I know myself. I'd just paint it and stare at the chips and never touch it up. Too lazy i guess.

At $60/sqft I'm out, was hoping there might be a comprimise out there. Thanks!

[Larry E.]

Re: '72 working garage

JMHO>Ever think in installing "RaceDeck" Tiles? I have had them for years; like the colors(Available)
and the durability and clean up is a breeze. Picture Below. Larry

[Steven B.]

Re: '72 working garage

Way back when I worked at a friction parts plant (asbestos) my guys put down a gray Mil Spec coating with a mop. It held up to steel cart wheels, tow motors, metal dies and clutch racks on the floor, etc. Sorry I don't recall the manufacturer but was told it was also used in vehicle shops and hangars.

[Tom L.]

Re: '72 working garage

I'd take that old nasty stuff if it were available : )

Larry, A friend with an engine shop did his floor with that product, or similar, and found that pressure points like the bellhousing alignment pins did poke through over time. I guess the material may have been compromised over time. He was diligent about fluid leaks in the shop because of the environmental issues but in my little non-professional shop I worry about fluid leaks on these floor systems. If there's a spill how is it dealt with?

[Dan A.]

Re: '72 working garage

When I built my house two years ago I had the builder put epoxy on the garage floors. It looks nice but I find that I’m always paranoid about tearing them up. I ended up putting garage mats under all the cars to try and prevent that. I wouldn’t do it again.

[Patrick B.]

Re: '72 working garage

If you just want to paint the floor with something to prevent oil leaks from staining the concrete, use can use clear sealer for concrete floors. It is probably what is used on floors in big box stores. If you put it on a freshly poured floor, it will cause the floor to become darker, but it just looks clear on a fully cured floor. Lacquer thinner or brake cleaner will soften or remove it, but you can just roll some more on. Your concrete guys should know where to get it. It is not the same as the deck sealer sold at Home Depot type stores, that stuff may work on brick but will not dry on concrete.

[Larry E.]

Re: '72 working garage

I'd take that old nasty stuff if it were available : )

Larry, A friend with an engine shop did his floor with that product, or similar, and found that pressure points like the bellhousing alignment pins did poke through over time. I guess the material may have been compromised over time. He was diligent about fluid leaks in the shop because of the environmental issues but in my little non-professional shop I worry about fluid leaks on these floor systems. If there's a spill how is it dealt with?

Tom: Simple solution(If a tile gets damaged):Buy extra tiles(color to match) and just R&R them. I have only replaced a couple in 15 years! Ten
minute job. Larry P.S. I have "jacked up" my c2's from the front center part of frame with only cardboard under the floor
jack and never had a problem with the tiles. BTW>Never had a problem with spills but if one occurs I clean up right away.