i have a fully restored 1967 327/300. I have recently noticed some engine oil collecting in the center of my intake manifold on both sides. I assume engine oil is working its way up the threads of the intake manifold bolts that extend in the valley of the engine. I plan to remove each of the center intake manifold bolts and put a bead of thread sealer on each bolt. Can someone advise on where to put the bead of thread sealer? I want to make sure I am locating the sealer in the proper area of the intake manifold bolt. I plan to do each of the 4 center bolts, one bolt at a time. Thank you.
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Re: 1967 327/300, thread sealer for intake manifold bolts
Put the sealer around the bottom of the threads so when you tighten down the sealer works it way up -
Re: 1967 327/300, thread sealer for intake manifold bolts
OK. I was concerned that if the sealer was at the bottom of the thread some of the sealer might make its way into the internals knowing the end of the bolt goes into the valley.Comment
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Re: 1967 327/300, thread sealer for intake manifold bolts
Clean both the bolt holes and bolts, thoroughly, with brake cleaner before applying sealant and reinsertion for best results. Twirl a rag into a small diameter and spray with brake fluid and run the rag down into the intake manifold...DON'T spray brake cleaner directly into the hole.Leif
'67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
Top Flight 2017 Lone Star RegionalComment
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Re: 1967 327/300, thread sealer for intake manifold bolts
Really appreciate the guidance on this. Thank you.Comment
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Re: 1967 327/300, thread sealer for intake manifold bolts
Does the engine assembly manual state to install and torque wet (sealant) or dry (no sealant)?
There is about a 20% difference between the two (rule of thumb), so if the bolt was installed and torqued dry, it was likely "undertorqued".
Fasteners undertorqed can work loose. They need to be preloaded (proper torque) to survive the fatigue cyclesComment
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