Power Steering Valve

[Dan M.]

Can someone suggest the best source for a PS valve 1969 L-71. Would like to keep as original as possible.

Thanks in advance for feedback

Dan

[Richard K.]

Re: Power Steering Valve

Dan,
I've been looking into this issue lately.
I've found out that if you want a 100% original valve, you probably won't get one from the current vendors.
If you don't mind turning a wrench, and want to rebuild one that you can find on ebay, or at a swap meet, etc., you can make one to look original. Since so many of these valves have been removed, probably because of leaks, and thrown away, I'm not sure anyone knows exactly what an original should look like.
However, I'll give you some information that I've found out about the '63-'82 power steering control valve, and originality.
'63-73 is GM part number 5691955, this has a centering-bolt spring rate of 55 pounds. and the cap that covers it is stamped with an X. The valve's adaptor has a casting number of 5685459. There is no Zerk fitting on the valves body, however there is a boss cast into the valve that could accept a Zerk, but it was plugged. The adapter is held to the main body by two 12-point bolts, and the complete valve assembly is held to the relay rod with a 6-sided bolt.
'74-82 is GM part number 7825636, this has a centering-bolt spring rate of 40 pounds (because GM introduced radial tires), and the cap that covers it is stamped with an C. The valve's adaptor has the same casting number of 5685459. There is no Zerk fitting, but there is a boss cast into the valve that could accept a Zerk, but it was plugged. The adapter is held to the main body by two 6-sided bolts, and the complete assembly is held to the relay rod with a 6-sided bolt.

In my research regarding vendors, two names seem to have high regard. Lonestar Caliper, and A1 Cardone, are well spoken of.
Lonestar guarantees their rebuild, but if you call them to request a valve that is an "original", you'll lose the warranty if you don't want their identifying number on it.
A1 Cardone's rebuild appears very impressive to me. You can view a video of their processes on their website. They also give a warranty. You do have to get their product through one of their approved vendors on their website. I looked at RockAuto, and they had a price of $166 with core. $200 without core. This is the best price that I've found. As far as getting one that meets your wish for originality goes, you'd probably have to leave that to luck. A1 is a large company, and I don't think they will accept "originality" requests.
I haven't made a purchase from anyone yet, so I can't give you my experience
I hope this is of some help in your search for originality and a vendor.
If other members have additions, and/or corrections, I too would like to hear from you.
THX

[Dan M.]

Re: Power Steering Valve

Richard,

Thanks for your feedback and insight. I should have mentioned that my current PS is leaking and I wanted to replace vs. rebuild but given your feedback perhaps I should just try rebuilding the one I have. Are they difficult to rebuild ?

Thanks again

[Richard K.]

Re: Power Steering Valve

Dan,
The rebuild of the control valve is fairly easy. Many vendors have videos or written articles about how to do the rebuild. I believe the Wilcox Corvette website has a good one. I'll bet there are many on Youtube.
Leaking power steering components is a VERY common problem. There are many locations where a leak can occur.
I believe I've corrected all my leaks, but if I were to buy a control valve, it would be from a vendor that sells the A1 Cardone unit. Their units are rebuilt wlith a lot of quality control, and they give you a warranty.
Good luck with whatever you choose to do.

[Tom L.]

Re: Power Steering Valve

Just a note on rebuilding these things. About 3-4 years ago I rebuilt mine for the third time. The first two times there was little improvement in leaks or function. Probably something I did and I'm OK with that but don't know wht it iwas. The third rebuild marked a great improvement in terms of leaks and function, for the summer. Over the long, cold NY winter most of the fluid leaked out by the time I went for the first run of the season. being friustrated I just cleaned up the mess, added fluid and took off. The only good news is that with a little use it stopped leaking for the season. Unfortunately the winter leak/spring re-fill has been a pattern but it's still better than the first two rebuilds. I've decided to put off the fourth rebuild until summer leaks and/or poor performance become an issue, call me lazy. Hopefully I'll remember to put a pan under the valve this winter : )