63 solid lifter rocker arms

[Edward G.]

I would like to replace my original rocker arms on my stock 63 L84 engine with new ones. When I rebuilt the engine many years ago I reused the original cam, lifters,push rods and rocker arms. The engine has not been run much since the rebuild. Now when adjusting the valve lash I noticed that feeler gauge goes in loose then tightens up as I push it in. Looking at the rocker arm to valve stem contact point the rocker arm is polished but does not look worn. Obviously,it mist be worn and the feeler gauge is bridging the wear area. This makes adjusting the valve lash tricky. I want to replace the rocker arms with new ones but I am not sure what rocker arms to buy.

1. Are the rocker arms the same for hydraulic lifters and solid lifters
2.Long slot or short slot
3. Self aligning or not self aligning
4. Rocker ratio 1.5 or 1.4
5. What is the difference between the $45 set and $180 set besides $135
6. Do I need to replace the push rods also
7. Just forget the whole thing and keep what I have and use narrower feeler gauges

I have read the various forum posts but the ones I think are relevant are 10 years old, do they still pertain for today.
The Corvette catalogues list only one part number for rocker arms and the come with the hydraulic style nuts.

[Joe R.]

Re: 63 solid lifter rocker arms

I'll vote for #7 on your list!

JR

[Duke W.]

Re: 63 solid lifter rocker arms

"Now when adjusting the valve lash I noticed that feeler gauge goes in loose then tightens up as I push it in."



What method are you using to adjust the valves? Hot and running? Cold and not running, and how are you indexing the crank for each cylinders valves.

What clearances are you using?

If the valve is loose you tighten until you begin to feel light drag. Then try a .001" smaller gage, and if it won't slide in without undue force the clearance is correct.

Before you answer please do the following Web search:

"Hinckley Williams valve adjustment"

Include the quotes and the paper should be near the top of the list and verify that it is the September 2008 version.

Read it before you get back to answering my questions.

Duke

[Joe L.]

Re: 63 solid lifter rocker arms

I would like to replace my original rocker arms on my stock 63 L84 engine with new ones. When I rebuilt the engine many years ago I reused the original cam, lifters,push rods and rocker arms. The engine has not been run much since the rebuild. Now when adjusting the valve lash I noticed that feeler gauge goes in loose then tightens up as I push it in. Looking at the rocker arm to valve stem contact point the rocker arm is polished but does not look worn. Obviously,it mist be worn and the feeler gauge is bridging the wear area. This makes adjusting the valve lash tricky. I want to replace the rocker arms with new ones but I am not sure what rocker arms to buy.

1. Are the rocker arms the same for hydraulic lifters and solid lifters------SAME FOR BOTH
2.Long slot or short slot-----SHORT SLOT
3. Self aligning or not self aligning----NOT SELF-ALIGNING
4. Rocker ratio 1.5 or 1.4------1.5:1 (NOMINAL)
5. What is the difference between the $45 set and $180 set besides $135-----HARD TO SAY; USUALLY ONE GETS WHAT ONE PAYS FOR
6. Do I need to replace the push rods also-----IF THEY ARE WORN
7. Just forget the whole thing and keep what I have and use narrower feeler gauges

I have read the various forum posts but the ones I think are relevant are 10 years old, do they still pertain for today.
The Corvette catalogues list only one part number for rocker arms and the come with the hydraulic style nuts.

Edward--------

See above.

[Edward G.]

Re: 63 solid lifter rocker arms

Duke,

When I adjusted the valves I referenced your article dated 9-23-2008 specifically indexing for the Duntov cam rotating the crank shaft 90* each time and adjusting the valves as you described at .008/.016. then going one size larger to verify clearance setting. This helped greatly with the clatter and performance.
My question is that when I insert the feeler gauge the gauge feels loose then tightens up as I insert the gauge. I believe this is because of the wear on the rocker. I then used a much narrower gauge set and tried to feel only exactly between the valve stem and rocker contact points.
That is why I asked the questions if I should replace the rocker arms.
I will post picture of rocker arm and nut
Can the rocker arm be polished to make it true?
Is the adjusting nut original? I believe that the engine as been previously rebuilt because there is a 10 on the face of the pistion.
Ed

[Joe L.]

Re: 63 solid lifter rocker arms

Duke,

When I adjusted the valves I referenced your article dated 9-23-2008 specifically indexing for the Duntov cam rotating the crank shaft 90* each time and adjusting the valves as you described at .008/.016. then going one size larger to verify clearance setting. This helped greatly with the clatter and performance.
My question is that when I insert the feeler gauge the gauge feels loose then tightens up as I insert the gauge. I believe this is because of the wear on the rocker. I then used a much narrower gauge set and tried to feel only exactly between the valve stem and rocker contact points.
That is why I asked the questions if I should replace the rocker arms.
I will post picture of rocker arm and nut
Can the rocker arm be polished to make it true?
Is the adjusting nut original? I believe that the engine as been previously rebuilt because there is a 10 on the face of the pistion.
Ed

Ed-------

The rocker arm appears worn to me. This cannot be corrected by polishing (or anything else). The rocker arm is case hardened and once the hardening is worn through, there's no practical way to restore it.

The rocker nuts are definitely not original. These are aftermarket sometimes called "poly-locks". Stock type prevailing torque lock nuts are the best for this application.

[Duke W.]

Re: 63 solid lifter rocker arms

It's a bit tough to see, but I think I see some striations one the rocker tip contact surface that could be wear/galling. Can you feel them?

The valve stem protrudes above the retainer, so when inserting the gage you need to rotate it vertically so it doesn't hit the side of the valve stem while sliding it in.

You should carefully inspect all rocker arm and ball wear surfaces. If they do need to be replaced, I don't know where you can get OE equivalent rocker arms/balls/nuts. Most are of the self guiding type that you CANNOT use with mechanical lifters.

Duke

[Joe L.]

Re: 63 solid lifter rocker arms

It's a bit tough to see, but I think I see some striations one the rocker tip contact surface that could be wear/galling. Can you feel them?

The valve stem protrudes above the retainer, so when inserting the gage you need to rotate it vertically so it doesn't hit the side of the valve stem while sliding it in.

You should carefully inspect all rocker arm and ball wear surfaces. If they do need to be replaced, I don't know where you can get OE equivalent rocker arms/balls/nuts. Most are of the self guiding type that you CANNOT use with mechanical lifters.

Duke

Duke------


Conventional (non-guided) rocker arms are available as follows:

Sealed Power R826

Melling MRK401

The Sealed Power I believe are discontinued but you may still find some out there.

Both of the above are kits that contain 1 each rocker arm, rocker ball, and prevailing torque lock nut.

[Edward G.]

Re: 63 solid lifter rocker arms

Duke,Joe

That's the information I needed,thank you so much for your time

Ed

[Domenic T.]

Re: 63 solid lifter rocker arms

Looking at that rocker, it is very easy to see the problem. Replace with new! that worn spot would cause a very inaccurate reading.
When I did solid adjustments as at the dealership on solids and did not/ was not to inspect for wear I used a dial indicator to get my readings.

Dom

[Edward G.]

Re: 63 solid lifter rocker arms

Dom,

Dial indicator, now there is an idea, it works well with Joe Rays' suggestion to just not worry about it and kick the can down the road. (my item #7 above)

Thanks
Ed

[Duke W.]

Re: 63 solid lifter rocker arms

Duke------


Conventional (non-guided) rocker arms are available as follows:

Sealed Power R826

Melling MRK401

The Sealed Power I believe are discontinued but you may still find some out there.

Both of the above are kits that contain 1 each rocker arm, rocker ball, and prevailing torque lock nut.

Good info, Joe!

My first choice would be Sealed Power, but if no longer available Melling has a good reputation, but they are probably much more expensive than Sealed Power when they were commonly available up to a few years ago.

Duke

[Joe L.]

Re: 63 solid lifter rocker arms

Good info, Joe!

My first choice would be Sealed Power, but if no longer available Melling has a good reputation, but they are probably much more expensive than Sealed Power when they were commonly available up to a few years ago.

Duke

Duke------


Federal-Mogul/Sealed Power was "amalgamated" into an outfit called "drive Automotive" some time ago. drive maintained some of the Federal-Mogul brands like Fel-Pro and Moog but I think they dropped Sealed Power. They MIGHT still have Speed-Pro. In any event, from what I have been able to determine, they dropped a lot of Sealed Power product lines.

[Duke W.]

Re: 63 solid lifter rocker arms

Tennaco purchased Federal Mogul back in 2018 then separated into "DRiV" or whatever it's called that included most of what was F-M and all their many brands including Sealed Power.

Earlier this year it was all acquired by a private equity outfit, and undoubtedly they will be looking to "cut costs", so we can probably say goodbye to what's left of the vintage car OE replacement parts that was a big part of F-M's stock in trade.

Restorations and repairs are going to get more difficult and expensive.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tenneco

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apollo_Global_Management

Duke

[Larry E.]

Re: 63 solid lifter rocker arms

The Following is JMHO>
I see the near future(Sooner Than Later) that all "Boni Fide" Original Corvettes(Other Classic Cars also) will become
"Trailer Queens" period. With the risk of having these cars out in the traveling public and having the parts wearing
out w/o no replacements parts to be found is why I think this. >>Larry