C1 Engine Break in/Test Run in Chassis wiring QUESTION
Need some advice (FIRST TIME ASKING I must be wising up to ask for help lol) on my wiring for starting my 58 engine in chassis to break it in. I did read the Summer 98 Restorer article by Bill Sangrey but was confused on the ballast resistor wiring in his diagram, So I watched the Midway USA Chapter Video starting a 63 in chassis https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ra11udZt_rw and between the two (both excellent) I have it ready to fire TOMORROW afternoon. BEFORE I MELT ANYTHING DOWN here's what I came up with. My ballast resistor wire comes off the CENTER POST on the solenoid (where the positive cable mounts), runs to the ballast resistor, from there it runs to a lighted toggle on/off switch, then to the positive side of the coil. THEN I also have a wire running back from that positive side of the coil directly to the "R" terminal on the solinoid. Sound right OR did I hook up one too many wires lol? Thank You for any input. David Lombardo 58 Vin #3300
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Re: C1 Engine Break in/Test Run in Chassis wiring QUESTION
I am Cooling it using the Jerry Bramlett article in the Fall 97 Restorer "Once Through Cooling for Engine Testing" (excellent)! -
Re: C1 Engine Break in/Test Run in Chassis wiring QUESTION
In case anyone from the future pulls this up on an ARCHIVES search. It was Yes the correct way to wire it. BUT USE 12 Gauge wire as I will be doing on my next attempt. ON MY FIRST ATTEMPT I Had a major meltdown of the 16 Gauge wire I had originally used (lot of smoke and melting). This mixed with a MAJOR fuel leak spitting over everything was a tad scary. Off to order fuel line fittings and change the set up to a heavier 12 GAUGE wire!Comment
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Re: C1 Engine Break in/Test Run in Chassis wiring QUESTION
JIM Thank you, This was with the coil wire out to send oil thru the motor before firing, and I used 16 gauge for everything. It was the wire off the positive coil (that ends up to the positive battery cable on the center post of soliniod via ballast resistor and on/off switch) AFTER CHANGING IT TO 12 Gauge wire ALL IS WELL with cranking . I did not follow Bill Sangreys Restorer Summer 98 instructions that CLEARLY STATES USE 12 gauge wire (I had 16 gauge in stock and thought the same thing you suggested that there would not be enough current running thru and it's only for a temporary fire up). Next Friday I will attempt it with the coil wire in and FIRE IT UP (after I replace a brass fitting that was showering me with gas lol)! Again Thank you for the input I was wondering if anyone actually reads these posts as I have never posted on this forum over the past 42 years of being a member. Appreciate It!Comment
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Re: C1 Engine Break in/Test Run in Chassis wiring QUESTION
It's not supposition on my part that 16 ga wire will more than handle the current drawn by a stock, points ignition. It's verifiable fact.
Look at the wire connecting coil (-) to the distributor. What gauge is it? The same current which flows into coil (+) also flows out of coil (-). That wire is, what, 18ga? And yet it doesn't go up in smoke.
It's great that your use of 12ga wire didn't let any of the smoke out of the wire, but I strongly believe that just masks the real problem of excess current draw.
The simple fact is that Kettering ignition draws only an Amp or two at most, WELL within the Ampacity of 16ga wire.Comment
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Re: C1 Engine Break in/Test Run in Chassis wiring QUESTION
Jim, I will triple check this before firing up next Friday. Your input is why I asked the forum and it may just save me a disaster. Sincerly thank you for your input, DavidComment
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Re: C1 Engine Break in/Test Run in Chassis wiring QUESTION
Agree that 16G is adequate for the Ignition circuit. But if you're using the same wire for the Starter S terminal(Crank), that may be why it exceeded the current capacity. How did you wire it for the Starter S terminal?
I have a chassis/engine startup harness and panel with switches and oil gauge. I use separate wires for IGN and Starter. That top button is the Starter button, the toggle switch is Ignition. I protect each circuit. I also use a circuit breaker at the battery for the source wiring. This setup was for a TI(K66) but same principle for a points system.
DSCN2951.jpg DSCN2945.jpg
Here is a diagram I'd recommend you follow. Notice the fuses in each circuit for protection. Since the wiring is exposed to possible dangers, the fuses could prevent problems if something shorts out due to vibration and/or heat.
Rich
C1_Starter_Ign_Wiring.jpgComment
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Re: C1 Engine Break in/Test Run in Chassis wiring QUESTION
Folks, in electrical wiring, you double (or half) the current carrying capacity of wire every 3 wire sizes. That is because the cross sectional size of wire is doubled (or halved) every 3 wire sizes, and this determines just how much current the wire can safely handle. In home electrical wiring 14Ga. wire is rated at 15amps, 12Ga.gauge is rated for 20 amps.
So when David went from 16Ga. to 12Ga., he more than doubled the current carrying capacity of the wire. The wire from the 'S' terminal of the starter to the battery is the only wire that needs to be 12 Ga. I believe that this is the wire size that GM fitted our old cars with. However I do not believe the 16Ga. wire should have burned up, but is probably possible if the engine had to crank for an extended period of time.
DannnnComment
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Re: C1 Engine Break in/Test Run in Chassis wiring QUESTION
WOW....................... JIM / RICHARD / & DAN Thank you I will follow these instructions HERE, and get it squared away this week to set it up for next Friday afternoon (my afternoon off), and report back that it all went smooth. THANK YOU VERY MUCH, DavidComment
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