Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
This thread https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...after-rebuild) detailed the issues I had trying to start my '64 after rebuilding the engine. I emptied the gas tank, pulled the sender, tested it electrically (OK) and for fuel flow (also OK). Reinstalled, added gas to the tank and used a manual pump to prime the frame line. No question that gas was gushing out the frame line at the fuel pump end. So far so good. I primed the carb, and it still wouldn't start. Pulled the carb and no signs of gas at the inlet to the carb from the gas filter. My best guess at this point is the fuel pump is either bad or installed incorrectly. The next step is to pull it out and see what I see. Is it possible to install the drive rod incorrectly and not get horrendous noise when cranking the engine?
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Re: Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
Something is obviously not correct. You did say that you primed the carb. Did you actually fill the bowl though the vent tube, pump the throttle and SEE fuel being squirted from the accelerator pump? If you did that and the engine still wouldn't fire I'd have a tough time thinking your problem was anything other than electrical. Fuel, spark (at the right time) and compression is all that is needed for the thing to at least sputter. You seem frustrated, you should be. Sometimes big problems are really, at the core, simple. Good luck with it all! -
Re: Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
YES!, I did it no less than a year ago on my '63 - however, it takes all of 10 minutes to check a fuel pump. Any modern vacuum gauge is also a fuel pump pressure tester; additionally; check the volume of output. Volume and pressure are NOT the same thing, see attachment.Comment
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Re: Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
Thanks for the attachment. My car will not run long enough to perform these tests; I did crank the engine with the fuel line disconnected from the carb after verifying there was good flow to the “in” side of the fuel pump and there was zero flow.Comment
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Re: Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
The car does not have to be running to do the pressure test (just cranked), it has to run (for just 30 seconds) to do the volume test
As I indicated above, I once installed the fuel pump on my base motor 63 and "missed" the actuator rod in the block, there was no noise and the engine would run momentarily off the fuel left in the bowls. I suspect the rod drifted down beside the pump actuator arm and was disconnected from the cam somehow and thus - no noise.. I reinstalled the pump and then all was well.Comment
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Re: Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
Exactly what Frank said. I installed the pump on my 63 incorrectly, that is to say the rod was along the side of the actuator arm. When the engine was cranked over, the rod was pushed by the cam lobe but was not able to retract because it was not being activated by the pump's arm. This resulted in a bent rod. Dumb mistake that possibly could have done some damage to the block.Comment
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Re: Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
Or, if you had the pump apart, it could be that the diaphragm rod is not attached to the actuator arm.Comment
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Re: Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
Thank you for sharing! Based in large part on all the comments in this thread, I rechecked my fuel pump and found a drip, boy its not fun R&Ring a fuel pump on an AC car...
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Re: Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
Pulled the fuel pump today. Learned that taking off the alternator, exhaust manifold, and hoses at the engine on that side was necessary to get it out through the top. Thank god I only filled the engine with distilled water. My garage floor got a good bath.
Anyway, the fuel pump bowl (if that's what it's called) was full of fuel. the line going to the fuel filter was dry at the top. I can only think that I installed the pump poorly and wound up with the rod next to the actuator arm. Drying everything out and will reinstall. Question for those of you who have swapped out fuel pumps with the engine in the car - do you do it from above or below? It's a PITA either way from what I can see. Thanks.Comment
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Re: Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
Please, for your own piece of mind, remove the pump rod to make sure it didn't get bent as I suspect it will be. It is easy to do. Simply remove the two bolts that secure the fuel pump plate and the rod will slide right out.Comment
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Re: Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
Oh, yes. I removed the plate and rod too. Rod appears fine, and rolls straight.Comment
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Re: Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
I removed mine from below, but whatever gives you the access to the bolts is what matters (you seem to have created some additional working space). The "retention" of the pushrod with a longer bolt (as described earlier) is an absolute must. Once retained out of the way, you can work on sealing and seating the cover and install the pump at your leisure (just don't forget to remove the retaining bolt!). I let mine sit overnight for the sealant to fully set before starting it up...
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Re: Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
Fuel pump is back in, carb and fuel lines installed. I will try to button up the rest tomorrow and try to start it next Saturday.Comment
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Re: Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
I recently had changed the fuel pump on a 67 L79 A/C car. I found it easiest to go through the wheel well for the bolts and underneath for removing and installing the lines. Don't forget, you can utilize a longer bolt to retain the pushrod so you are not fighting that against the arm of the pump. Just don't forget to remove it and replace with the original.
TimComment
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Re: Update to "Today was supposed to be the day" -- I think it's the fuel pump.
Using a universal ratchet joint, a long extension, using "line" wrenches for the fuel lines, working through the wheel arch, having the car at TDC and securing the pump rod with the long bolt are far and away the best methods for small block cars without A/C. I've never done an A/C or big block fuel pump R&R so I can't say on those.Comment
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