'63 Rear Camber Initial Adjustment Issue

[Norm B.]

I am trying to do an initial rear end alignment on a rolling '63 frame using the method that describes how Van Steel does it. I don't need it perfect, just reasonable enough to drive it a couple of miles to the alignment shop when I get the body back on. The problem I am running into is that once I make the adjustments the inside rim of the wheel is touching the big washer that goes on the bottom of the spring bolt. It actually hits on the balance weight. I have done this twice now with the same result both times. The frame has been repaired for rust at the kick ups by a highly experienced and recommended shop and everything is new except the original '63 wheels, the spring, and the half shafts. I know that without the weight of the body there will be some anomalies in how the suspension sits but I am not sure the weight of the body will be enough to compensate. I have only done the left side so far and I also noticed that the cam seems to be at the most extreme position. So where am I going wrong here?
P1110975.jpgP1110976.jpgP1110977.jpgP1110978.jpgP1110979.jpg

[Bob R.]

Re: '63 Rear Camber Initial Adjustment Issue

You need the weight of the body to make any adjustments. You certainly cannot get an alignment without the weight of the body on the frame.

[Jim L.]

Re: '63 Rear Camber Initial Adjustment Issue

You need the weight of the body to make any adjustments. You certainly cannot get an alignment without the weight of the body on the frame.

This.

Also, when you load the suspension, the wheel will move outboard and away from the end of the spring.

[Tom E.]

4C3E7880-3A50-41D8-B202-5249E286BD11.jpg
5279D5EB-26FD-4E50-8D8E-B40049048F72.jpeg

[Frank D.]

Re: '63 Rear Camber Initial Adjustment Issue

I did my adjustment two weeks ago using Lars' method (attached PDF) but with the body on..on my 63....
I think you need the weight on to normalize the suspension (e.g. the body).. It helps to have the tires on a sliding surface - plates and rods using the Lars technique ...

I assume you're SURE the strut rods are the correct items and the correct length...

[Richard G.]

Re: '63 Rear Camber Initial Adjustment Issue

Below is a picture of my 63 after the alignment was completed. Even before the alignment I had issues pushing the car because the alignment was so far off. But it didn't hit the wheel, like yours. I suspect the bolt is too long for some reason. Or possible a spring issue. The bolt seems to be tipping to the outside like the spring is to long. With weigh on the car it will be even longer as the spring flattens out. I did notice the spring doesn't appear to be a 63 spring, as it seems to be lacking the turned up area at the end of each leaf. Really difficult to tell exactly what's going on. Getting the weight on the wheels, per the suggestions, is best first step.

63 rear suspension.jpg

[Michael H.]

Re: '63 Rear Camber Initial Adjustment Issue

I agree with Tom England your camber bolt is adjusted to far to the inside of the bracket, adjust it to were the bolt is closer to the end of the bracket.

Mike

[David H.]

Re: '63 Rear Camber Initial Adjustment Issue

I am trying to do an initial rear end alignment on a rolling '63 frame using the method that describes how Van Steel does it. I don't need it perfect, just reasonable enough to drive it a couple of miles to the alignment shop when I get the body back on. The problem I am running into is that once I make the adjustments the inside rim of the wheel is touching the big washer that goes on the bottom of the spring bolt. It actually hits on the balance weight. I have done this twice now with the same result both times. The frame has been repaired for rust at the kick ups by a highly experienced and recommended shop and everything is new except the original '63 wheels, the spring, and the half shafts. I know that without the weight of the body there will be some anomalies in how the suspension sits but I am not sure the weight of the body will be enough to compensate. I have only done the left side so far and I also noticed that the cam seems to be at the most extreme position. So where am I going wrong here?

Norm

My take on the steps you took for doing a rough alignment follows. Is my narrative what you did?

With the suspension at ride height, i.e. (about 54 minutes into Van Steel video) you supported trailing arm with 9/16" half inch drive socket between TA and frame pocket. Then with trailing arm pushed all the way INBOARD (no shims installed yet), you adjusted camber using a long level aligned against the spindle flange.

After camber adjustment, you did a rough toe-in adjustment (about 59 minutes Van Steel video) by pushing the trailing arm OUTBOARD until the long straight edge (6' foot level) had a uniform gap front-to-back along your frame. After uniform gap was achieved, you installed alignment shims.

The VS video looks pretty straightforward, was there a step missed?

Dave

[Norm B.]

Re: '63 Rear Camber Initial Adjustment Issue

Thank you everyone for your comments and photos. I kept everything that came off the car during disassembly and this morning I compared it all to the new parts and everything matches up. I think that Dave is correct in that I may have messed up the process right from the start. It was about five weeks ago that I did this so my feeble memory is not recalling all the details but I may not have had the trailing arms positioned properly to start with. We are supposed to get a couple of warmer days next week so if I have a chance I may go back at it again. In the meantime I backed off the eccentric bolt to create space between the wheel and the bolt. Once the body is back on I will see where I am at and adjust if necessary then. I only need it good enough at that point to go a couple of miles to the alignment shop.