door gap

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  • Mel S.
    Very Frequent User
    • September 1, 1992
    • 262

    door gap

    i did a body off restoration on my 66 convertible. Before the body came off, the doors worked perfectly. When I removed the body i was VERY accurate with counting the shims and square plates at each mounting area. Now the body is back on the frame this is the situation. With all new rubbers, square plates and shims installed and torqued down to 25 ft/lbs, when on my lift, the gap on the doors is perfect. When i let the lift down and the tires are on the ground, the gap closes up so much that i can hardly open the doors but cannot close them. I tool all the shims out of the #4 rear mount and it helped very little. Next i was going to loosen the #3 mount and with the tires on the ground, jack up the body and see if that helps. Any thoughts???
    Mel
  • Dan B.
    Expired
    • July 14, 2011
    • 545

    #2
    Re: door gap

    Your OLD rubber mounting cushions compressed over time, the new ones are wider, try removing some shims from all the mounts to get to the same height you had before. Did you by any chance save and mark the originals? If not, place the new rubbers in and fill in the shims AS NEEDED to close up the gaps, then torque and see where you are at. It will eventually work

    Comment

    • Joe L.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • February 1, 1988
      • 43129

      #3
      Re: door gap

      Originally posted by Mel La Scola (21474)
      i did a body off restoration on my 66 convertible. Before the body came off, the doors worked perfectly. When I removed the body i was VERY accurate with counting the shims and square plates at each mounting area. Now the body is back on the frame this is the situation. With all new rubbers, square plates and shims installed and torqued down to 25 ft/lbs, when on my lift, the gap on the doors is perfect. When i let the lift down and the tires are on the ground, the gap closes up so much that i can hardly open the doors but cannot close them. I tool all the shims out of the #4 rear mount and it helped very little. Next i was going to loosen the #3 mount and with the tires on the ground, jack up the body and see if that helps. Any thoughts???
      Mel

      Mel-------


      All I can offer is this: what you are experiencing is ONE of the reasons that I do not recommend frame-off restorations.
      In Appreciation of John Hinckley

      Comment

      • David H.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • July 1, 2001
        • 1430

        #4
        Re: door gap

        Mel

        What, if any, restoration was done to your frame?

        Any restoration to your birdcage? Evidence of rust on door hinge pillar? Rust on birdcage door sill?

        Did you by chance use Anti-Seize or some other lubricant on your body bolts? (Resulting in over torquing).

        Body torqued down with frame on lift (wheels suspended) or with weight of car on wheels?

        Dave
        Last edited by David H.; August 2, 2020, 05:49 AM.
        Judging Chairman Mid-Way USA (Kansas) Chapter

        Comment

        • Mel S.
          Very Frequent User
          • September 1, 1992
          • 262

          #5
          Re: door gap

          Car has 27,700 original miles. No restoration on the frame, birdcage and no evidence of rust on the door hinge pillars or door sill. The frame was really clean. Just dirt, grease and mouse nests. I did torque with the wheels suspended. But since have unbolted #2-#4 numerous times and added and removed shims on #3 and#4. Each time I loosen the bolts, but keep them in the intact with the nuts, I raise the side of the body to insert or remove shims.
          Mel

          Comment

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