Key is in good condition. it will turn turn switch from LOCK to OFF to ON to Start. Key can be removed in those Four positions. If switch is placed in ACC position with key and key remains or is removed, switch CANNOT turn clockwise with key PERIOD! I have to depress brass pin through access hole to enable key to work. Any opinions? Thanks in advance.
-
-
Re: 1964 ignition switch
Jack,
I've never heard of the exact problem you describe. But it sounds to me like there might be several things that need fixing. First, how do you know the key is in good condition? A new key, duplicated from a worn key can look in good condition, but still be a poor functioning key. A poor key can cause the key to be removed in positions it shouldn't. Do you know the 4-digit key code? I'd start with the key. Then move on to the lock cylinder, which is next cheapest. And if the problem persists, look at the ignition switch last. An NOS switch (GM #1116650) is going to set you back $250. The original switch for '64 was 1116635, but that's impossible to find. It was superseded by 1116650.
Gary -
Re: 1964 ignition switch
Gary, Thanks for replying. I would like a clarification though on one point. With regard to ignition switches, did any of the midyear cars have the ability to remove the key in the OFF position disregarding the ability to put the switch in the LOCKED position? Just wondering since I honestly don't remember but just yesterday was told that it was possible. Thanks, Jack J.Comment
-
Re: 1964 ignition switch
Jack,
For 65-67 there was no LOCK position and the key could be removed in the OFF position. But that has nothing to do with 64 and earlier.
GaryComment
-
Re: 1964 ignition switch
Jack, for years all I needed to do was unlock by the key, remove, then rest of positions were available. Such was the state in 1967 and just assumed it was standard feature - But along came NCRS judging pointing out it was wrong, a review of Owner Manual to confirm and OFF the ignition went to repair. Common problem!Comment
-
Re: 1964 ignition switch
Alan, thanks for replying. As I stated, I no longer have the (ACC) option without getting into trouble. Interestingly, I have another salvaged 64 instrument cluster with only its ignition switch ( no key) remaining. It is obviously in the unlocked position because I can move it from Off to On to Start effortllessly. I attempted to turn the tumbler with my key, depressing the recessed pin, in order to remove the key core with no success. Now I'm trying to figure out how to remove the key core without damaging the switch module which may be needed. Jack J.Comment
-
Re: 1964 ignition switch
Jack,
In order to remove the ignition core from your spare cluster you need the correct key. If you don't have the key that operates the lock the only other way I know to remove the core is to drill it out, which can be done without damaging the switch if you are careful. If someone tells you to consider having the lock picked open, I can tell you that is nearly impossible to do. It's a side-bar lock, like the door locks, and they are notoriously difficult to pick in the best of hands.
GaryComment
-
Re: 1964 ignition switch
Gary & Alan, Interestingly, tonight I tried a NEW, UNCUT key in my ignition switch and the key enabled me to go from the LOCK (ed) position, to Off, to ON, to START without effort. Also, it worked the same as my cut key with regards to moving the switch to the ACC position BUT - I was unable to return to any other position after that and I have to depress the brass pin through the access hole to order to return to the other positions. Jack J.Comment
-
Re: 1964 ignition switch
Jack,
What you describe is extremely odd. The only way you should be able to insert an uncut key into the lock cylinder and turn it is if there were no tumblers in the lock. Have you ever removed the lock cylinder and then test to see how it works in your hand when inserting a key? And to confirm there are indeed tumblers in the lock?
GaryComment
-
Re: 1964 ignition switch
Gary , this ignition switch is my original. As our posts indicate, I 've been playing with this the last few days. Again highly unusual. Yes to both of your questions. Again, with the lock cylinder installed in the ignition switch, I can operate it properly, excluding the ACC position, with either my cut key or the uncut key. The key cylinder/tumbler has never been apart. VERY strange. Jack J.Comment
-
Re: 1964 ignition switch
Jack,
So, you've remove the lock core and confirmed there are tumblers?
GaryComment
-
Re: 1964 ignition switch
YES, visually observed tumblers/pinsComment
-
Re: 1964 ignition switch
Jack,
Well then, you've exhausted my detective abilities. Good luck with it and let us know what the problem was when you finally figure it out.
Gary
PS. Do you know if the switch and the lock cylinder are both original GM items? Does the lock cylinder have the key code stamped into the side?Last edited by Gary B.; January 25, 2019, 10:47 PM.Comment
-
Re: 1964 ignition switch
Gary, I'm sorry I did not reply a lot sooner to your post. As far as the switch and the key/lock cylinder, they are the original GM items to my car. The 4 digit code is stamped into the cylinder's side. I've been playing with this off and on for the last couple of weeks. Currently, I CAN move the switch from out of the ACC position to Lock if I jiggle the key while rotating key clockwise. Other positions work OK. Again, what is VERY STRANGE is that my UNCUT blank key will operate the switch pretty much the same way as my cut key. Makes me suspect worn pins in tumbler and /or a combination of slightly worn pins AND a slightly worn key. Jack J.Comment
-
Re: 1964 ignition switch
Jack,
I agree that is very strange and indicative of a significant problem.
GaryComment
Comment