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Understand the front input splined shaft does not have a seal. There is and aftermarket seal kit offered.
Gene - thank you - didn't know that. I never tore into a manual transmission. Like I said, the stuff one learns on this forum is invaluable andoff the chart. Could not be more pleased with the advice and assistance.
I'm experiencing the same oil leak with my 63 small block. (See picture). This picture was taken with the engine running for about 5 minutes in my garage. I'll take off the inspection cover and see what the flywheel shows. No chatter when driving. Thoughts??
I just came across an oil additive that states it will stop the rear main seal from leaking. I've never heard of this before and I'd like opinions of anyone that has used this additive. How, if at all, does it affect the operation of the engine and is it detrimental? Also, does it work????
I did that and from what I read, the sealer works. But that's their own propaganda. I wanted a member's actual experience with this stuff. In the end, I just will have the RMS replaced.
Yeah, you can't trust product propaganda..... most links I found include a comment or two on the material that is in stop-leak products - here is an example - Common ingredients in oil leak stop additives include fibers, ceramic particles, and sodium silicate, which have the ability to swell or solidify when exposed to oil. The issue I see is the particles swell everywhere - they don't know a good hole from a bad one. Do they clog filter material - don't know, I would think probably yes. Also - most articles I read state they do not last - the leak will recur in a few hundred miles or so. It is a crap shoot for sure.
I wouldn't spend the $ and take the risk of negative effects of adding snake oil. Replacing the RMS on C2/C3 Corvettes is so easy compared with most cars. The engine doesn't even need to be lifted or tilted to remove the pan.
After doing additional research, the safest thing to address this is to replace the RMS later on in the springtime when I'm ready to take the car out again.
Jerry, why not try a leak detection dye and add to oil? You will need a black light,I would bet Harbor freight sells the, cheap. Look for leak detection dye at a local auto parts store or maybe do a Google search.this is the best way to be sure you found the leak source. I would also remove the inspection shield so you can see the leak at the back of engine when it starts leaking.keep in mind that anything that’s leaking at the rear/top of engine can make its way to the back of oil pan.(valve covers, rear intake seal@block, oil pressure line)
New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.
The back of the engine (on top) doesn't seem to show any leaks, but does have a bit of staining (not fresh). I will clean up the back of the engine, (intake, etc. and see if anything shows up there. Then I'll take the next steps.
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