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Another thing I just noticed is that when I pressed the cap in on the opposite side enough to install a clip, the clip on the other end begins to distort. See red arrow in the attached picture. That there isn't any free plan in the U-joint end to end.
Don
I use to get a center punch and tap on both caps try to center the u-joint in place unit the clip are flush
In general I don't believe that most people realize how easy it is to distort the U-joint flanges. With proper thought and some dedicated tooling it can be disassembled by only putting pressure on the one trunion you are attempting to remove the bearing from. The tool pushes on the trunions that are free and 90 deg from the ones you are attempting to remove not the top cap. If you just push on the cap the top bearing fit often freezes to the flange, This bends the flange inwards when it is pressed out. I have fixed a bunch of flanges and had to junk more than I can count. I have a mandrel that I can check the alignment between the two ears. Almost everyone damages the inside of the bottom ear when the cross impacts the inside of the ear. bearing bore. This leaves two upsets one on each ear where it is impacted by the cross. Clean these upsets using a round or half round file as needed. Some need a lot of metal removed to clean up this area.
I also use a hone that was built for piston pins to clean up the bores when I have to. This assures the bores are in line.
For those than haven't installed a quality u-joint the good joints come with extra clips than vary in thickness to achieve the correct .002 axial play recommended by GM. The typical Rock Auto brands only come with one set of clips so you are out of options before you even start.
Rick Geier
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