Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
Hello all, thank you for any insights that you can offer. I have a rebuilt 283 and a restored 9017400 FI unit. The FI unit will have been tested on another engine. The 283 has not been started. When starting the rebuilt 283 for the first time with the FI unit perched on top, any insights on how best to complete this task would be greatly appreciated. I am wondering if first priming the engine through the aid of a carbureted intake would be advisable to reduce excessive cranking. Or, can the FI unit fire up sufficiently fast enough that it could be used for the initial start up? The 283 is using a blueprint Duntov 097 with solid lifters if those are factors. And any recommendations on oils, initial run times, rpms, etc. Thanks very much everyone! Chuck
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Re: Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
I would prime the engine - remove the distributor and turn the oil pump until oil pressure is achieved. You could add gas to the F.I. fuel meter so it will not have to crank to get gas there. Have a timing light ready and go for it. I have started quite a few engines for the first time with a fuel unit. Good luck, Don H. -
Re: Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
Hi Chuck,
Who make the cam you are using? I would recommend following the cam manufacturer's instructions to the letter for break in. After that, use CJ-4 oil, as has been discussed here many times.
Good luck!
JoeComment
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Re: Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
Dr. Charles, You received good advise. Look at your ID tag(riveted on the plenum on drivers side top left corner) again on the fuel injection. You are looking for a model number that starts with 701????
No such number as 9014700.
One big tip is to make sure the timing is dead nuts or at least close. If you are off by 180 degrees and attempt to start the car it and starts and there ispopping and backfiring you will blow out the expensive cranking signal valve on the Plenum.
More issues on FI distributors today.
To advance and retard the distributor you unloosen the large zincad plated clamp. Then the top halve will swivel.
The bottom half of the distributor is stationary.
Make sure you have an add on siphon breaker kit between the spider and the fuel bowl to help prevent bending connecting rods and blowing the engine. Make sure the hot wire to this solenoid is attached to the 12 volt side of the ballast resistor on the firewall. Not the 9 volt side. Use a testor instead of worrying about wire colors. Good luck, JohnComment
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Re: Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
Great ideas, Don. Will definitely pump up oil pressure and prime the fuel meter. I wondered if the fuel meter could be helped. Many thanks. ChuckComment
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Re: Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
Hi Joe, Thanks much for the cam directive. Will do on the manufacturer's instructions. It will be a Speed Pro CS113R, a Duntov 097 "blueprint" copy. Does this sound like the best cam choice? Regards, ChuckComment
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Re: Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
Hi John, The unit is a 7014900R. Great idea on using the resistor for continuous power. The unit has the fuel solenoid so I am covered there. I will study up on timing so I am in sync and closely set. Greatly appreciate the advice.....ChuckComment
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Re: Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
Coincidentally, Very soon I will be doing the same on a '61.
At first, being a fuelie novice, I felt it may be best to break-in the cam on the stock rebuilt 283/315hp using a spare cast iron intake and WCFB that I borrowed. I've recently been convinced by another friend who has much FI experience, to install and use the FI unit. He will be helping me with the process. I will do the normal oil-priming, etc. I admit I am a bit nervous about break-in using a FI unit that I rebuilt myself.
I rebuilt the FI unit pieces some time ago, with my good friend(now deceased)Chuck McSheehy by my side the whole way teaching me how to, and recently assembled it. I also added the siphon breaker solenoid I got from John DeGregory. I had the engine built as a short block using the Sealed Power CS113R and I have AT992 solid lifters to install when I get the rebuilt heads on. I'll be assembling the engine this week and have now decided to use the fuelie unit for first run.
Thanks JD for mentioning the importance of timing and the fear of blowing the CSV. I had a NOS CSV and had Frank Antonicelli(sp?) rebuild it for me.
RichComment
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Re: Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
Rich, Best wishes on the first start. I'll look forward to hearing how things go. Regards, ChuckComment
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Re: Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
Dr. Chuck, You may hear a lot of suggestions here on the cam to use. But if it were may car I would use the speed Pro CS113R now sold by Federal Mogul. In fact that's the cam in my '63 fuel car and many 100's of customers car.
History on this cam. It's the old TRW cam from 1/2 century ago. (or so). Then it was sold by Sealed Power. And now by FM.
Solid lifter number is AT992. Don't make the valve lash tight. Make it at Least 12-18 cold. Remember the more valve lash the more vacuum. The old FI units run on vacuum. Take it away and then run idle like crap. JohnComment
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Re: Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
I have broken in a number of early fuel injection engines using a intake and carburetor.
I feel more comfortable with the carb initially for break-in then install the fuel unit and make the necessary adjustments.Comment
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Re: Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
Bruce,
Of those engines broken-in with carb, when you then swapped in the FI unit, what would you say was your success rate with the FI unit?
In other words, how many FI units would have worked right out of the box for engine break-in if you hadn't started off with carb?
RichComment
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Re: Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
Rich,
100% , 3 out of 3.
The units were rebuilt and tuned on a test engine by the rebuilder then installed on the fresh rebuilt engine.
Check your private messages.
Bruce BComment
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Re: Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
Thanks Bruce. Good info, and yes I got your PM.Comment
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Re: Rebuilt FI Unit and 283
Hello John, Thanks much for your thoughts. Will do on the CS113R cam and AT992. Any insights on breaking in a new 283 with a known carb versus an out-of-the-box rehabed fuel unit? ChuckComment
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