1963 340 HP heat riser valve

[Richard G.]

Hello Everyone;
I have a 1963 340 HP heat riser valve all mounted up. Everything seems to be original to the car with the exception of the H/R valve. It has been so long I am not sure where I purchased the valve from. There doesn't seem to be room enough to operate the valve by hand, the counter weight hits. I have included a picture that might explain my situation better. Can anyone identify what my issue might be?
Thanks
Rick in WA State.

[Timothy B.]

Re: 1963 340 HP heat riser valve

Richard,

You have the valve on upside down, turn it over so the weight faces outboard someone will probably post a picture.

[Mike M.]

Re: 1963 340 HP heat riser valve

also looks like the pin is missing that prevents the counterweight from going beyond its limits. the brass nuts are atypical also. mike

[Richard G.]

Re: 1963 340 HP heat riser valve

Richard,

You have the valve on upside down, turn it over so the weight faces outboard someone will probably post a picture.

I had a feeling I was going to learn something, and it wasn't how smart I am!
It is interesting to note that everything almost clears the weight.... Had me over thinking the vale.
I will turn it around and post another picture, with the correct steel nuts.
Will check on the stop at the same time.
This motor was assembled in 1986, working on the needed corrections.
No it wasn't running this way. Thanks everyone for the input.
Rick in WA State

[Joe L.]

Re: 1963 340 HP heat riser valve

I had a feeling I was going to learn something, and it wasn't how smart I am!
It is interesting to note that everything almost clears the weight.... Had me over thinking the vale.
I will turn it around and post another picture, with the correct steel nuts.
Will check on the stop at the same time.
This motor was assembled in 1986, working on the needed corrections.
No it wasn't running this way. Thanks everyone for the input.
Rick in WA State

Rick------


There's a very easy way to determine top from bottom on a heat riser valve. The orifice on the bottom has a pronounced chamfer (for the seating of the "donut" gasket). On the top side there is no chamfer.

[Leif A.]

Re: 1963 340 HP heat riser valve

And, unless you're concerned about about judging points, I would continue to use the brass nuts...much easier to remove as they will never rust solid to the studs.

[Richard G.]

Re: 1963 340 HP heat riser valve

Well I pulled the heat riser off today to turn it around and the beveled end was down and the flat up. It can not be rotated without hitting the frame. I am wondering if I have the correct valve. It is on the correct side and the pin that stops the valve is intact, just can't be seen from the angle I took the picture. I am including a picture of the valve removed from the 340 hp motor.

[Joe L.]

Re: 1963 340 HP heat riser valve

Richard-------


This heat riser valve appears to me to be correctly configured for your application. I do not understand why you're having the installation problems.

[Mike M.]

Re: 1963 340 HP heat riser valve

i tend to agree with joe based on yer photos but i'd like to see multiple side views of the riser before committing. mike

[Joe L.]

Re: 1963 340 HP heat riser valve

i tend to agree with joe based on yer photos but i'd like to see multiple side views of the riser before committing. mike

Mike------


Just to be clear, I was only commenting on the pictured heat riser valve being functionality correct for the application, not necessarily being correct with respect to every nuance of originality.

[Timothy B.]

Re: 1963 340 HP heat riser valve

Richard,

The weight should be at the rear when installed and swing down from the outboard side. Check the clocking on the studs.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1963 340 HP heat riser valve

In photo 1 it appears to me that the valve was mounted correctly with flat face up with a flat gasket between the manifold and the valve, along with the beveled edge down to mate with a donut to the downpipe. However there are 2 issues....

1- The counterweight on yours has swung beyond the stop pin. Carefully rotate it so that those 2 tabs at the Y shaped end are between the stop pin, and carefully bend the stop pin toward the Y shaped end. Test swing the counterweight to see that it doesn't swing beyond the pin and stops at both ends of the Y.



The valve can be installed in one of three orientations to the manifold as there are 3 equally spaced studs, but it's designed to be installed in only one of the three.

2- Yours was mounted to the manifold in the wrong configuration. Looking from below in your first photo, rotate it Clockwise 1/3 rotation and mount it so that the counterweight assembly is facing the right/outbound side of the car. This will put the swinging end of the counterweight towards the rear of the car and will not obstruct with the starter.

Rich