1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

[Richard M.]

A DIY thread for those interested.....This is from a 1961(same as 1962) but 1956 to 1960 are similar except for some small header details, weatherstrip pieces, and the rear bow differences. I'll try to detail as much as possible for those of you out there that insist on doing it yourself. If you do not have the proper skills and tools to do this yourself, I suggest you locate a pertinent, knowledgeable Corvette experienced installer to do it. Horror stories abound with improperly installed frames and tops and the nightmares for owners.

I will hopefully outline some common issues and potential mistakes when doing this to help you avoid problems. Comments, Criticisms, Suggestions Welcome. I must attach images in large format as I'll be describing step-by-step processes where necessary.......Rich
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Firstly, remove the frame from the car and assess condition. Badly rusted bows and frame sections may need replacement or repair. This one is in good shape. I will disassemble, media blast, prime(black) and paint gloss black.

Before photos....More details later. I'm taking it apart as I write this.

Take notes and photos to help you later to reassemble.

[Kenneth F.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Richard, I appreciate you showing a top installation. I installed the top on my 1962, but it is too tight, and I am sure you will have other ideas to improve my work.
Thanks,
Ken

[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Richard, I appreciate you showing a top installation. I installed the top on my 1962, but it is too tight, and I am sure you will have other ideas to improve my work.
Thanks,
Ken

Ken,

You are not alone. Many times I get emails and calls to help others reset a top that's too tight, pulling on the windshield header and popping the glass from it. Hopefully my process will give you some ideas to help. You may have to release the vinyl from the header and adjust the frame. You'll see how I make adjustments to avoid such issues later.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Frame disassembly is easy, but note configurations of hardware and bows when you take it apart. Here it is all apart now. Mark each bow with ID and stamp or place file marks in inconspicuous places to get it back together later. Also take special note of spring washers and plastic washers. Note some are doubled up, likely due to assembly tolerances when originally built. This may be different when reassembling if using reproduction hardware.

[Terry D.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Richard
When you are done will there be a way to download the whole article to our computers for future reference? The articles on your old web site were fantastic. Any chance a new web site will be up and running soon? And thanks for all your help in the past

Terry

[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Richard
When you are done will there be a way to download the whole article to our computers for future reference? The articles on your old web site were fantastic. Any chance a new web site will be up and running soon? And thanks for all your help in the past

Terry

Hi Terry,

Comcast Website is history after they deleted all Personal Web Pages for every Comcast Customer Worldwide. I have my html source code saved but still haven't had the opportunity to rebuilt it on a new server somewhere. Maybe some day.

Coincidentally, Dave Zuberer, the PDF Creation Expert for my posts, emailed me the other day and said he's already scoped out the project to take my post and turn it into a Downloadable PDF file. He's awesome. So with that, the short answer to question 1 is a YES, thanks to Dave.

Rich
ps Gone all day today finishing up little details with my friend's '67. All set now for Lakeland, so I can get back to the '61 project now, and my '59 Power Top Rebuild, and etc, etc.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Frame - Continued:

Keep in mind that the frame is the foundation of a properly fitting soft top. Any flaws must be corrected before any upholstery work. A new top will look nice from the outside, but you are the one sitting in the cabin and when you look around it's nice to see a freshly restored frame surrounding you.

Also keep in mind that if you plan to have your top installed at a outside shop you will make their task more efficient if you do this prep work yourself. You can have them do it as a alternaive, but plan for additional cost. For those that have their top installed by a vendor at shows, like Al Knoch Interiors, they only have a limited amount of time and if they need to do this prep work it will delay their schedule, as well as cost you more in labor.

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Tag each of the bows, #1 through #4 as shown. These are the 4 bows between the "Header" bow and the "Rear"(decklid) bow. It is important to note orientations of the bows to the side brackets for reassembly. Note the slight angles on some of the bows where they attach to the frame brackets.


Remove the c-clips from the bow pivot bolts and note positions of spring washers and plastic washers. Note direction of pivot bolt heads facing the cabin.


After removing the previously tagged bows, stamp them with identifiers on the outer flanges on one side. Do this in a inconspicuous area. If you media blast or sand the bows make sure you can see these identifiers through the paint.

Remove front header to siderail attaching screws. Before removing the large slotted pivot bolts remove 4 small Allen lock screws. Remove all bolts and hardware taking note of spring and plastic washer positions. Some positions may have multiple washers to reduce play.


The "Hold-up Strap" snaps on each side of the vertical support are held by a flat nut. I like to reuse originals when possible. I use my fiberglass erasers for small items like this.


Check all supports and hinge points for damage.


A common area needing attention is the forward horizontal support on each side. Here you can see both are bent. Remove them for repair. They should be relatively straight with a very slight arc to match the side window frames.


Use a vice or press to repair. Use the side glass as a guide until satisfied. Do all repairs early, before paint.



Remove the outer corner reinforcements from the header bow. They are held in with 3 screws. Remove all old weatherstrip and staples from the tack strip and the top tack strips which hold the soft top pads. The header weatherstrip is held by a retainer and screws fastened to Tee-Nuts. This one was already apart but I will show this detail at a reassembly step. Inspect the Tee-Nuts embedded into the tack strip. They should slide, but should not rotate 360*. Run a screw into each one to check for damaged threads. Be very careful as if you damage one the entire tack strip may need to be removed and replaced. If the tack strip(s) must be replaced, see Addendum to be published later.

Remove any staples from Bow #4, or if a 1956 to 1960 Rear bow, remove them from there as well. 1961 to 1962 rear bows use no staples.

Note the corner reinforcements hold a screw for the weatherstrip retainer. Remove the filler wedges and match them up to the replacements as this is a confusing piece to replace.


Clean and prep the entire frame by either sanding, wire brushing or media blasting. I used a combination of all 3 methods on this one. This is tedious work so be patient and take your time. You will be amazed how much time it takes to restore a frame.

Use a quality Gloss Black paint. I spray 2 coats typically. Make sure you have plenty of space to hang all of the bows and pieces after painting. To paint the bows I hang them horizontally from both ends. This way you get good coverage in the areas that will be seen once installed in the opposite direction.


Reassembly next, including attaching ALL weatherstrip before fitting the frame to adjust it to the car in preparation for the vinyl installation.

Rich

[Frank D.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Wonderful Rich. It would be nice to see a comprehensive piece (maybe turned into a PDF by Dave Zuberer) on the whole install process. Sooo many folks get the Al Knoch video and think they are gonna get the same results as the experts and screw up a nice top. I watched that video, twice....and it doesn't show all the tricks/tips the "oldsters" know by a long shot... And it certainly doesn't deal with the issues if the top frame is wracked or otherwise messed up!

[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Wonderful Rich. It would be nice to see a comprehensive piece (maybe turned into a PDF by Dave Zuberer) on the whole install process. Sooo many folks get the Al Knoch video and think they are gonna get the same results as the experts and screw up a nice top. I watched that video, twice....and it doesn't show all the tricks/tips the "oldsters" know by a long shot... And it certainly doesn't deal with the issues if the top frame is wracked or otherwise messed up!

Frank,

Dave pinged me at the start and told me he already started creating a PDF. I need to plan it out with him, but it'll probably be in multiple parts. One for the frame work and adjusting, then one for the actual vinyl installation. My goal is to try to keep it all sized so it can be attached here on our site and others and easily distributed via email, etc. Once I get my website back up probably there too for easy download.

I'm also going to create separate Addendums showing the header to side frame differences between the early(1956 to 1958) and later(1959 to 1960+) frames and adjustments and the (1961-1962) rear bow differences to the earlier frames, as well as a discussion of 1956 to 1960 reproduction rear bows and some of their nuances. Some info about early vs late header weatherstrips, early vs late side window weatherstrips, studs vs tee-nut fasteners , Bowdrill tape installation on early side window weatherstrips, etc. Also details regarding tack strip installation. It'll take some time but since I have a car here in front of me it's easy to take some pictures while I do it and do the text later while relaxing.

There's a lot of info to share so I need to get it on paper now that I'm 'retarded'.....I mean 'retired'.

See you in Lakeland,
Rich

[Kenneth F.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Richard, The photos of the bow order and hardware identification are great.
Ken

[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Frame Assembly:

All pieces have been refinished and allowed to cure overnight. I have a new frame hardware kit and am using a combination of some original parts and new parts from the kit. I cleaned all of the threads for the Pivot bolts before assembly. I used new Pivot bolts, spring washers and plastic washers from the kit. The old pivot bolts were scarred and aged. When installing the Pivot bolts snug them so that the spring washers yield a slight play then lock with the setscrews or lock nuts. Hold the Pivot bolt firm when tightening the lock nut. After assembly I sparingly apply a foaming action lubricant and test for a smooth action of the assemblies. If too tight readjust the Pivot bolt tension.


I then attach the refinished header to the side frame assemblies. Here I am using original recessed head flange bolts, "E" markings. I cleaned them and will paint them after final adjustments of the frame on the car. The rear of the head flange is a serrated surface and ultimately will scratch the L-bracket also so touch up is always needed. These L-Brackets connect the header to the side rails and is a configuration used on 1959 to 1962 frames. The threaded holes for the side rails attachment and adjustment allows approximately 1/4" fore to aft movement of the side rails and rear frame verticals to adjust the frame to the side windows. The earlier 1956 to 1958 frames use a different attachment and adjustment method. I will describe the differences in detail later. The adjustment result is essentially the same.


I then attach the header to the siderails using the chromed Phillips screws and new washers. I cleaned and reused the original screws. The kit comes with Stainless screws. Snug these screws but not firm.


Next I prepare all new siderail weatherstrip for installation. These are the 1959 to 1962 type which use Tee-nuts and screws and metal retainers. Try to salvage your original retainers as the reproductions are much thicker. These were in nice shape and just needed a cleaning. Note the original manufactures mark on some of the pieces.


The original weatherstrips have some features for hardware clearance as shown. Reproductions also have them.


Do yourself a favor by punching out all 18 holes in the rubber if any slag exists from the mold release process. It'll save finger pain later.


Assemble ALL weatherstrip to the frame using screws and Tee-nuts. I use a soapy solution to aid assembly. Note the profiles of the retainers to the rubber and the edge where they mate. The flange of the Tee nut rests on the rail with the protrusion toward the rubber. Snug the screws but you will be adjusting later. Note the forward side rail to header Screw does not use a Tee-nut. There is a threaded hole in the rail and the header. This hole was drilled after frame adjustment at assembly in St Louis. This will prevent the fore/aft adjustment of the siderail so you may need to remove that screw and redrill a new hole later.


The header weatherstrip and retainer is next. I do this at this stage knowing I will remove it later to install the vinyl. This is a test of the hardware and also will help get the rubber comfortable in its installed position. You will be happy you did this now as later it has to be installed when the frame is on the car and you will not be too flexible to reach any difficult spots.

This is a tedious task as the rubber is hard and the retainer is cumbersome to get the screws to get started. Carefully line up the screws to the embedded Tee nuts using a awl and try not to strip anything. Work from center and leave the screws a bit loose so you can move the retainer a bit if needed. The Tee nuts move in the tack strip a bit which helps. Leave the end screws out as those will use a sheet metal type screw into the tab of the end caps later. Be careful of the screw head here and before you latch the frame to the header later make sure it doesn't hit the top of the windshield post and scratch it. On some installations I cut the ends of the retainer to prevent that and use smaller head screw. More on that later.



I also attach the rear decklid bow weatherstrip and filler strips at this stage. When I place the frame on the car I want all rubber in place to both acquire accurate measurements for the vinyl installation as well as protection for the decklid itself. Again, I will be removing this rubber when the vinyl is installed, then reinstalling the rubber but testing for proper fit and finish is important early in the assembly stage. I also ensure that the threaded holes for the hold up strap buttons and swing latches are clean and test fit all holes with a 10-32 screw. Carefully use a thread restorer if needed in holes that are tight.

The 1961/1962 rear bow is very different from earlier rear bows. Here I will outline the later 1961/1962 and will document the differences and methods of the earlier 1956 to 1960 rear bow assembly later. The rubber has a unique profile and a plastic filler bead to hold it in. The vinyl top will go into the bow channel then this piece later but for now I will test fit and cut to the right length. There are 2 filler pieces that attach to the bow. I use a 10-32 short screw for these. Originally a sheet metal screw was used but tends to corrode the hole in the bow. There are actually 2 channels in the bow. Picture a "L shaped profile, one for the vinyl bead at the bottom of the soft top material, and one for the rubber weatherstrip. I'll include a photo of that later when the vinyl is attached along with the rubber.

I like to use a soapy water solution to aid installation of both. Oil or other products can be used but I don't like the idea of petroleum products touching rubber or vinyl, particularly if the vinyl is white. I brush some in the bow channel and both sides of the rubber. Some use a special tool made from a screwdriver. I use a screening roller tool. It has a rounded wheel and a channeled wheel. I use combination of both. I also dip the wheel in the solution to smooth the action while running along the rubber channel as it tightens and narrows as it's installed..


The filler strips have a channel for the plastic bead. Start there and then at the end attach the main rubber seal. Work the bead into both pieces and along the entire bow. It's very quick with the roller tool. When you get to the opposite end trim the main rubber to butt against the filler and extend the bead into the filler channel. Note the main seal has a inner reveal edge which should cover the edge of the horizontal line of the bow.




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Assembly of all 5 bows to the frame subassembly next then onto the car for a test fitting exercise.

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[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Final Assembly of the Frame and Test Fitting on Car


This is where the identifiers stamped onto each bow become useful. I marked the left side of each bow with the bow number and "L" for left. You will be very happy now that you marked the bows before you took it apart.

Ensure that the 2 inner articulating arms pf the frame are in their normal "as installed to the car" position before installing the bows.


Here's #1. Because it mounts to the forward horizontal with a thick bracket flange, it requires the longer Pivot stud. Note that the rebuild kits do not supply the correct outer diameter plastic washers for these bows. I simply clean the originals and reuse them. You can add a touch of lubricant to each pivot during assembly, but I wait until the top is done and add a touch of light oil then. I do it later to avoid any oil spillage or drips on the vinyl top material or pads during test fitting and drop-top exercises.


Note the "stop" pin on the frame bracket.


The remaining bows, 2, 3 and 4 use the shorter Pivot studs.


If you have a Hard Top, it is imperative that the side windows are adjusted to that Top first before the Soft Top frame is installed and adjusted. I will explain later.

Lay the folded assembly into the well. Pad the well area to prevent damage to both the car and the frame. Here is the most important step. The adjustments here will be the foundation for a proper vinyl top installation. I will outline these adjustments in the next phase.




I adjusted the frame brackets to set the horizontal over the side window as a start. I have a few more adjustments to get it better than what you see, but it's pretty close to what I want.... More on that later.


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[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Here I complete the Soft Top frame adjustments to the body and side windows at their maximum height. All header and side window weatherstrips MUST be installed for these adjustments.

Hard Top Equipment:
If a Hard Top is equipped with the car, it is imperative that it is installed to the car and the side windows are adjusted to mate with the Hard Top side weatherstrips first before attempting to install and adjust the Soft Top frame. Window adjustments are outlined in the ST-12 Corvette Service Manual so I will not repeat that process here.

Reference photo with Hard Top installed and windows adjusted.


Frame Adjustment to Car:
Roll the window up to its maximum height then adjust the rear outer bracket to set the rear vertical frame mating to the window so the the window frame sits just inside the rubber Inner seal. It may be required to loosen the forward 3 Phillips screws which hold the forward horizontal upper bracket to the header. This will allow a fore/aft movement of the upper horizontal. You must also remove the forward #8 screw which holds the weatherstrip to the upper frame near the header. Later this hole may not line up so drilling and tapping a new #8-32 may be required.

Here is the 61/62 adjustment hardware. The forward upper side bracket has slots, which after loosening the screws, will allow about 3/8" movement in a horizontal direction.


Here is the arrangement of the horizontal adjustment and differences in their attachment method on the 1956 to 1958 frames. The hardware is different but the principal is the same. 2 large Phillips head screws and washers/nuts are used to clamp the horizontal together after the fore/aft movement is reached when setting the rear vertical frame to the rear vertical glass frame.


With either variation of the horizontal frame, adjust the frame so that the side horizontal upper frames lay flat or slightly "tilted UP". Begin by using a small rag wrapped 2x4 block on edge (apx 3 1/2") on the windshield header at center and raise the top up a bit and rest the header on the block. I then loosen the inner articulating arm bracket bolts but leave them slightly snug. I then push the TOP of the inner articulating arm bracket forward or rearward while holding the bottom end of the bracket in position. You will see the long "arm" will pull or push on the upper multi-link levers and how they will raise or lower the horizontal frame pairs. It may be necessary to tighten the lower bracket nut a bit more to act as a pivot point. The idea is to keep that lower mount bolt tight enough so the lower end doesn't move except in a arc, while moving the upper end of the bracket forward, or sometimes rearward, in a larger arc, to get the upper horizontal frames in a straight to "slightly "upward " bent position.

Articulating arm bracket, passenger side.



Here is a diagram I made some time ago showing some adjustment notes. This was on a 1960 but the same procedure is used for 1956 to 1962 as all articulating arms and mount hardware are identical.


When satisfied, tighten the 2 upper and lower bracket nuts completely, remove the block from the header, then test fit while viewing the frame pair with header down and latch the header on both sides. I test the upper horizontal frame above the window for proper horizontal plane to ensure it does not droop in the middle and the top of the window mates properly with the weatherstrip. It may take several iterations of this adjustment to get proper window fit.

Lower the Frame into the Storage Well:
The next step is very important and MUST be done before attaching the Soft Top pads and vinyl top material. You MUST release the header latches and carefully lower the frame assembly into the storage well. There MUST be no binding during lowering the frame. Perform this step several times to ensure the frame moves freely in both raising and lowering operations. If there is a bind, locate the cause and adjust frame brackets as needed. The cause will likely be from the articulating arm bracket positions which may want to interfere with free movement in the "lowering" operation. YOu may have to cheat this adjustment to find the "sweet spot", whereas it allows the side frames to be properly set and allow the frame to be bind free when lowering into the well.

If the above test is not performed, only luck will be your friend. Many a soft top has been installed where the installer does not perform this test and passes the completed job to the owner with instructions to leave the top raised for a "long time". Weeks later, the owner tries to lower the top into the well, but it will not lower due to a bind in the frame. Since the vinyl was installed on a "Mis-adjusted" frame, most times the entire job must be redone for the top to fit properly and wrinkle free.

Frame Adjustments Complete:
The frame adjustments are now complete. The windows fit properly to the frame and allow the door to open and close with no resistance. The inner frame of each window should touch the Inner rubber seal and not push too hard against the Outer rubber. It is not UN-common for the window frame to slightly touch the Outer rubber seal as the tolerances of these assemblies are not critical in their design.

Completed. It should be noted that slight bracket adjustments may be required after the pads and vinyl top material are installed due to slight tightening of the frame when the covered top frame is fastened to header and deck lid.

Here are some shots of both sides after adjusting the frame to the side windows.


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[Kenneth F.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Richard, There are so many things I did not know when I installed my top. I will probably do the job again.

Ken

[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Richard, There are so many things I did not know when I installed my top. I will probably do the job again.

Ken

Ken, You are not alone. I was there too and feel good that I can share what I've learned over the years.

In 1986 I bought my '59, 2 top car. The soft top was very tight. After learning the hard way and trying to attach it and trying to stretch it out, it happened......I pulled the windshield header right out of the glass and had a big gap. I nearly fell over in fright. I was able to push the header back down onto the glass after adding some sealer. The rear latches of my soft top were never ever latched again after that until 1992.

That winter I pulled the windshield, learned about windshield post tabs, had the tabs repaired with new plates, reinstalled the windshield with new rubber and did my very first soft top replacement. I had a pretty good idea how to do it but needed some guidance. I got help from others and a man from California, over the phone, named Joe Calgano. No computers, no emails, just phones and letter envelopes.

Joe set me straight and guided me along and when I ran into a problem was on the phone with him. I learned much from him and thank him to this day. Since then I've done a few of these tops and yes there is not much published anywhere to help avoid mistakes. I'm glad we have the technology today to pass this information in this way. I'm glad I'm helping you learn about them, just like my heros helped me so many years ago. I still seem to learn some new things every time I do a top. Add reproduction rubber, vinyl, parts, bows, and hardware into the mix and it adds even more challenge.

Rich