70 lower control arm big problem

[Bill L.]

Well everything was going too well.

I went to torque the lower control arm to the frame on the driver's side. My AIM says 70 ft.lbs for front bolts and 90 ft.lbs for rear bolt. I assume that is correct.

One of the front bolts stripped before reaching 70 ft. lbs and now I cannot get it back out. Good Grief!

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you,


Bill

[Joe L.]

Re: 70 lower control arm big problem

Well everything was going too well.

I went to torque the lower control arm to the frame on the driver's side. My AIM says 70 ft.lbs for front bolts and 90 ft.lbs for rear bolt. I assume that is correct.

One of the front bolts stripped before reaching 70 ft. lbs and now I cannot get it back out. Good Grief!

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you,


Bill

Bill-------



There are only two ways that this could happen:

1) The threads in the bolt or the special nut were bad, or;

2) Your torque wrench is WAY off.

I vote for (1).

As far as getting the bolt out, I really don't see why that's such a problem. I'd just keep turning it counterclockwise while applying down-pressure until it comes out. If that fails, simply remove the other bolt, cut off the head of the stubborn bolt with a die grinder, and remove the nut and headless bolt from the top. This is really not such a big deal since there's no way I'd re-use the nut or bolt, anyway.

These are SAFETY-RELATED components. Use NEW, high quality bolts and special nut. Safety trumps correct headmarkings.

[Bill L.]

Re: 70 lower control arm big problem

Bill-------



There are only two ways that this could happen:

1) The threads in the bolt or the special nut were bad, or;

2) Your torque wrench is WAY off.

I vote for (1).

As far as getting the bolt out, I really don't see why that's such a problem. I'd just keep turning it counterclockwise while applying down-pressure until it comes out. If that fails, simply remove the other bolt, cut off the head of the stubborn bolt with a die grinder, and remove the nut and headless bolt from the top. This is really not such a big deal since there's no way I'd re-use the nut or bolt, anyway.

These are SAFETY-RELATED components. Use NEW, high quality bolts and special nut. Safety trumps correct headmarkings.

Thank you Joe.

I had already attempted the downward pressure before the post to no avail. I am in the process of cutting off the head as you suggest. Thankfully the bolt is easily accessible.

I have a craftsman click type torque wrench so I agree that #1 is most likely. The passenger side assembled without issue.

Kind Regards,


Bill

[Joe L.]

Re: 70 lower control arm big problem

Thank you Joe.

I had already attempted the downward pressure before the post to no avail. I am in the process of cutting off the head as you suggest. Thankfully the bolt is easily accessible.

I have a craftsman click type torque wrench so I agree that #1 is most likely. The passenger side assembled without issue.

Kind Regards,


Bill

Bill-------


You might be able to save the nut with a Heli-Coil on the thread-damaged side.

[Bill L.]

Re: 70 lower control arm big problem

Thank you Joe.

Certainly will consider the Heli-Coil option.

Kind Regards,


Bill

[Bill L.]

Re: 70 lower control arm big problem

Bill-------


You might be able to save the nut with a Heli-Coil on the thread-damaged side.

HI Joe,

What is the correct finish on the nut? I thought plain.


Thanks,


Bill

[Joe L.]

Re: 70 lower control arm big problem

HI Joe,

What is the correct finish on the nut? I thought plain.


Thanks,


Bill

Bill------


Yup, plain, non-plated steel. This was GM's very poor choice for this part which is highly exposed to the elements.