C2 Door glass lower channel

[Ed S.]

Any tips on how to install / assemble the door glass and lower channel (the one that runs horizontal) with the new rubber? I have the glass out and on my work bench and I understand the importance of properly positioning the glass into the channel.

What I am having trouble with is actually pushing the glass into the channel with the new rubber - obviously a very tight fit. I am concerned about breaking the glass. Can it be tapped in with a wooden or rubber mallet? Does the rubber wrap around the bottom of the glass on both sides or is it only on one of the glass (the inside I presume).

[Bill W.]

Re: C2 Door glass lower channel

Ed the rubber wraps around the glass . I use a little dawn soap on the rubber then you can use a rubber hammer if needed . The glass is very hard to break .

[Stuart F.]

Re: C2 Door glass lower channel

I had mine done in about 1972 by a professional glazer and it came out perfect and is still holding today. I had to have it done though because the passenger side window dropped out of the channel on it's own. I had them do both windows then using the driver's side as a location pattern. It was still intact, but I didn't trust it because of what happened to the other one.

Stu Fox

[John L.]

Re: C2 Door glass lower channel

center the glass on the channel, dish soap is a good lubricant, Use two or three long bar clamps that have rubber feet to pull them together slowly.
(note that the glass assembly centers itself between the vertical channel runs when operational.)

[Gene M.]

Re: C2 Door glass lower channel

center the glass on the channel, dish soap is a good lubricant, Use two or three long bar clamps that have rubber feet to pull them together slowly.
(note that the glass assembly centers itself between the vertical channel runs when operational.)

Centering the glass is not necessarily going to give ease of window operation. It needs to be set up similar to the fixture used by GM originally. Try this shown on pages 12&13:

http://www.wnyncrs.org/WNY_NCRS/News_files/WNY%20NCRS%20Newsletter%20Volume%2022%20No.%203%20Original.pdf

This is for original glass you are not necessarily going to get correct sized reproduction glass.

[Ed S.]

Re: C2 Door glass lower channel

Gene, (and others)

Thanks for your post. I was aware of that article and that the position of the glass in the track is critical. Before I removed the glass from the track I marked the glass with tape at both ends to ensure I positioned it in the same place. I think the tips recommending use of soap (Dawn) and cushioned woodworking clamps are great ideas and will definitely solve my problem. I give a report on how it went after I'm finished.

[Richard M.]

Re: C2 Door glass lower channel

Ed, Got your PM but was wrapped up at the engine shop the last few days. All above recommendations are spot on.

Here is a sequence of photos when I re-adhered the glass on that '67 window. I used a soapy solution to aid in the task. In my case I used a rubber mallet hit squarely and firmly at the top of the glass to set it in the tape.

The glass was loose from improper prior repairs. I marked the edges but was unsure if that prior repair was accurate. I was able to match it to the opposite side dimension, but still wasn't positive. I got it as close as I thought would be correct.
p3040026.jpgP3040027.jpgP3040028.jpgP3040029.jpgP3040031.jpgP3040032.jpg

I spent a lot of time cleaning the material and old tape from the sash.
P3040033.jpgP3040034.jpgP3040035.jpgP3040036.jpg

I installed the new set tape into the cleaned sash. As described, with a soapy solution to aid installation, I simply drove it home into the sash and setting tape using the rubber mallet. I liked that idea as I felt I could control the pressure and "feel" the glass go down. The hits must be perfectly square at the top of the glass with the sash held firmly in a fixture. Notice I used a soft jaw woodworkers vice to hold one end, and another vice at the opposite end as seen in the photos above.

Here is the result after completion. The cleaned surfaces and new setting tape worked perfectly. Before assembly I cleaned and masked the sash guides and refinished to a smooth appearance. I also "re-felted" the rear channels and test fit them to the guides before final installion to the doors.
P3040042.jpgP3040043.jpgP3040039.jpgP3040040.jpgP3040041.jpgP3040044.jpgP3040045.jpgP3040047.jpg

Rich

[Ed S.]

Re: C2 Door glass lower channel

Done! Thanks to all that took the time to offer tips. Using Dawn dish soap really made a difference. Also - I only used a rubber mallet to drive the channel down the last 1/4 inch. I cut a 1/4 inch deep by 1/4 inch wide dado in a 24 inch long piece if 1 x 2 oak trim with a router. I placed the top edge of the glass in the dado. Then, with the channel lubricated and positioned I slowly tightened two long woodworking clamps that gently forced the channel over the rubber sash (or what ever it is called). The channel slowly slid into place as I applied even pressure with the clamps.

I especially want to acknowledge and thank Richard for the pics he posted and.... his idea to verify the correct position of the channel by running the rear vertical window guide up and down by hand - GREAT IDEA - thank you. That step is an abosulute must if you are going to replace the rubber in the channel.

[Gerald C.]

Re: C2 Door glass lower channel

Where do I find the setting tape (is there another name for the setting tape?) for the window as I have to do this on my 67's side windows.

[Gary B.]

[Ronald L.]

Re: C2 Door glass lower channel

Gene
your link isn't any good.

I assume that there is no way to get this into a convertible without full assembly?

[Gary B.]

[Don H.]

Re: C2 Door glass lower channel

Western NY Chapter ceased to exist several years ago.. Gene Manno no longer visits the TDB..