rear ride height

[Scott T.]

I installed a new rear leaf spring on my 64 conv when we restored it this winter, it seems to look a little high in the rear I measured from the floor to top of wheel arch its 27" my 65 conv same measurement is 26", the bolts that hold the spring on the ends are tightened all the way, is there a spacer to put in there or another trick to this it seems pretty elementary, I bought the standard spring.

[Gene M.]

Re: rear ride hieght

Scott,
Did you tighten the (4) 9/16 bolts that secure the spring after the car's weight is on the suspension and the car was bounced a bit? Also check your camber after a short ride as any positive raises the car.

[Russ S.]

Re: rear ride hieght

Tightening those spring end bolts all the way raises the car up. You should loosen them as far as possible and still get the cotter pin in to lock the nut.

[Bob R.]

Re: rear ride hieght

If you installed new bushings they should compress a little after driving the car a bit maybe a few months. The spring should settle a little also wait a month and check the dimension again.

[Doug L.]

Re: rear ride hieght

I have the same problem; too high in the rear. I'm reading the posts above but don't understand which 9/16" bolts Gene is referring to. The 4 bolts that attach the spring clamp plate to the differential? The original post refers to spring end bolts but there are only 2 of those, not "4".

[Edward J.]

Re: rear ride hieght

I have the same problem; too high in the rear. I'm reading the posts above but don't understand which 9/16" bolts Gene is referring to. The 4 bolts that attach the spring clamp plate to the differential? The original post refers to spring end bolts but there are only 2 of those, not "4".

Doug the(4)bolts the attach spring to diff. get torqued after the weight of car and is on the ground, also sometimes you can roll the car back and forth to get the wheels to settle back in the normal position once the car dropped down from a lifted position. and the longer end bolts can be backed out as far as possible to allow the cotter pins to be installed as described about. this should lower only slightly.

[Doug L.]

Re: rear ride hieght

Hi Ed,
Thanks for your reply. I think I understand what you are saying. I'll give it a try. For others that may have the same problem in the future I am editing your explanation below.

Doug the(4)bolts (that) attach spring to diff. get torqued after the weight of car is on the ground. Also sometimes you can roll the car back and forth to get the wheels to settle back in the normal position once the car (has been) dropped down from a lifted position. The longer end bolts (at the ends of the spring) can be backed out as far as possible to allow the cotter pins to be installed as described. This should lower only slightly.

Doug

[Michael W.]

Re: rear ride hieght

Doug,

The same process of waiting till the car is sitting on it's wheels before tightening bolts applies to all suspension related fasteners, front and rear. In this case the trailing arm bushing fastener should be loosened and retorqued.

[Doug L.]

Re: rear ride hieght

Thanks Michael. That will be my next step. I just came in from the garage where I loosened the 4 bolts that attach the spring and clamp plate to the differential and I loosened the nuts on the bolts at the ends of the spring to the maximum in reference to the cotter key holes. I lowered the car to the ground and removed the jack stands. I then bounced the car at the rear bumper multiple times. There was no appreciable change in the height of the rear end of the car. Measuring from the garage floor to the bottom edge of the rocker panels, the rear is 1" higher than the front.

I guess my next question is whether everything has to be loose at the same time. I have replaced the cotter keys on the spring-end bolts and re-torqued the 4 differential bolts. Should I loosen the differential bolts again while I loosen the trailing arm bolts?

The car (a 1964 like in the original post) has been back together and driven for at least 2 years (maybe 50 miles).

[Michael W.]

Re: rear ride hieght

Should I loosen the differential bolts again while I loosen the trailing arm bolts?

No need......

[Bob W.]

Re: rear ride hieght

Scott If all of the above fails most vendors sell longer bolts for the rear spring. But I would try the above first.

Bob

[Leif A.]

Re: rear ride hieght

You state you've only driven the car 50 miles in the last two years...therein may lie your answer. Car needs to be driven. The ride height should come down some after several hundred miles of driving, allowing the suspension to "work" it's way in...try it. The worst that could happen is that you would get the enjoyment of a nice drive

[Stephen L.]

Re: rear ride hieght

The correct (factory) procedure for checking ride height (with dimensions) is in the AIM on pages UPC 3-A6 and 4-B5. Try them.....

MAYBE the front is low..........

[Richard M.]

Re: rear ride hieght

The correct (factory) procedure for checking ride height (with dimensions) is in the AIM on pages UPC 3-A6 and 4-B5. Try them.....

MAYBE the front is low..........

Yes, the ONLY way for the rear is to measure at the strut rod pivots as outlined in the AIM. Also specified for the front at the lower control arm pivot bushing center to bottom of the knuckle IIRC.

Scott, Did you remove the rear leaf spring "shipping band-clamps"? Also, after any change or adjustment, I like to lower the car so the 4 tires rest on slippery cardboard to get the F/R camber near normal then do a rollout a few times to relax the suspension to normal.

For the record, every reproduction rear leaf spring I've used has issues with ride height too high. Longer outer spring bolts will help get the rear of the car down, and if it EVER does settle, you can replace with the stock bolts.

Rich