Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

[Donald A.]

Looking for your expert opinions about my transmission.

It has the correct VIN stamp and what appears to be the right build stamp and date. (My car is built last week of May 63)

Is the case correct? Are these the correct numbers. See anything that catches your eye?

I'm trying to solve a mystery and what to know if my tranny has been messed with.

thanks for any input.

[Donald A.]

Re: Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

Here are some More pics

[Joe L.]

Re: Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

Here are some More pics

Don-------


I see nothing that makes me think it's not original to the car. It looks right to me for a late 1963 with Muncie 4 speed.

[Loren L.]

Re: Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

Will the camera lens fall out if you take a photo of the tailshaft extension and markings?

[Donald A.]

Re: Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

These were the only pics I had before it went back in the car. It's coming out again because of issues.

I had had someone question the case as not being correct and just wanted to ask about that

[Joe R.]

Re: Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

Donald,

I once had a 63 split window sn 14,4XX that had a Muncie and it was original to the 63. Bought from the original owner back in the 70's.

JR

[Bob R.]

Re: Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

The case has the correct part number on it for the 63 Muncie 1704. Your tail shaft has the correct number on it also. You didn't show the side cover number in your pictures. If you have a correct 421 bell housing only the 63 Muncie will fit it as the imput shaft in 63 was smaller than in other years.

[Michael G.]

Re: Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

I'm pretty sure the "Sharpie" is not original...

[Joe L.]

Re: Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

The case has the correct part number on it for the 63 Muncie 1704. Your tail shaft has the correct number on it also. You didn't show the side cover number in your pictures. If you have a correct 421 bell housing only the 63 Muncie will fit it as the imput shaft in 63 was smaller than in other years.

Bob------

The input shaft was the same size for 1963 as for 64-70. It was the front bearing retainer flange OD that was different and unique to 1963.

[Donald A.]

Re: Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

Thanks for the confirmation. I will explain later as to why I asked. I was worried someone did a switch on me when rebuilding it. I'm having issues with it on two fronts and am getting it torn down AGAIN!!!

[William C.]

Re: Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

Muncie rebuilds are pretty straight foreword, what issues are you having???

[Donald A.]

Re: Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

Won't shift into second when cold and I paid for it to be changed from a close ratio to a wide and I'm discovering that it was not changed. $1,100 down the tube. I'd like to sue the guy over all the frustration...AND to continue the story, the first time he rebuilt the thing it was making noise in second gear and he refused to pay the mechanic to pull it again to fix. I ended up having to pay the mechanic again to pull it so the guy could fix it. I get so mad thinking about how I've gotten screwed...

[Wayne M.]

Re: Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

First pic in the 2nd set: input (clutch) gear shows no circumferential groove, which should mean wide ratio (prior to 1966; if GM gear). Same pic, output yoke doesn't look to have U-bolts (Corvette only), although other shots seem to show the correct yoke.Corvette 3117522 3831704_1.jpg

Here's a shot I got somewhere on eBay (probably). Note the casting # on the front bearing retainer flange that Joe mentions.

[William C.]

Re: Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

OK, close ratio to wide ratio requires a different Input and Cluster gear. The correct input will have one ring machined circumferential into the splines on the input. Not sure wat was quoted but the input shown definately is for an early wide-ratio box. Also the '63-65 boxes used a different synchro hub and associated brass clutch ring. If a later brass unit is used in an early (63-65) box the sunchro brass will hang up on the hub for the slider as the early hub is too wide and does not provide enough clearance for the synchro clutch to operate properly. YOu need a layer, as well as someone who is actually knowledgable of early Muncies to ehlp you out...

[Donald A.]

Re: Is my transmission truly correct and orignal to my 63???

Here is what I know (which is not much but a lot more than I did when I bought the car 1.5 years ago)

The rear end was it's original 4:11. I had no idea what that even meant at the time but all I knew was the RPM was really high just driving 55 mph. So I learned about rear end ratio's. I decided on a 3:36 for everyday driving and highway.

When I bought the car the tranny would not shift well so I already knew I had to get that redone. Then I learned about the tranny ratio's. To the best of my knowledge I had a close ratio in there that was paired with the 4:11 rear. I was told the close ratio would not be the best for a 3:36 rear so when I gave the tranny to the guy to rebuild I asked for the change. Unfortunately I don't have a pic of the tranny input shaft when it first came out of the car.

So, new gear in the rear and also learned I had to buy a new posi unit to change from a 4:11 down to 3:36.

I get the car finally going and from the first test drive I knew things did not feel right from a shifting standpoint i.e. the gears felt too close together between first and second. You can't shift smooth. (not to mention the thing had a bad noise in second) I was very disappointed. So I tell the guy about the noise and he gets all huffy with me and I ask who is going to pay the mechanic to pull the tranny again. Long story short, he agrees to fix but stiffs the mechanic. To make things right I pay the mechanic again.

Not understanding the greater issue of the shifting/gearing I did not address at the time. So I get it back the second time and then it will absolutely not shift into second gear when cold. Once warm no problem. I tell the guy and he says it will be months before he can look at it. So I just write that one off.

All the while I'm still not happy with the shifting/gearing. During this time I get to drive other cars and even bought another (70 LS-5, which has a wide ratio & 3:36 rear) and they are a blast to drive and shift "just right" from gear to gear. So I know I got something out of whack.

Finally to this weekend: I threw in the towel and engaged a professional shop that has more than 30 Top Flights and 4 Bloomington Golds under their belt to come look at the car and address this and other issues I'm having. The guy drives the car and immediately says, "you've got a close ratio" in this. I contract with them and they haul the car away. He sends me a message the next day and states that he has another car with the same set up from a gearing standpoint (wide ratio and 3:36) and it does not drive like mine at all.

So there you have it. Something is wrong and we are going to dig into it.